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Post by dadbif on May 5, 2018 6:55:52 GMT
Whatever you do, don’t forget to correct your timing, pinking WILL destroy your engine.
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Post by wannabe on May 5, 2018 8:35:25 GMT
Whatever you do, don’t forget to correct your timing, pinking WILL destroy your engine. I may see if I can learn how to DIY it - if I could reset to 10degrees advanced (which is factory-spec, IIRC?) to check if that fixed it, I could then adjust forward in 1 degree stages and listen out for issues? The problem with rolling roads is that exhaust noise booms over everything else, so you can't hear quieter noises! That and the fact they are mega money - too much to setup once, get off the RR, test on road, come back and get tied down again, adjust a bit, etc. etc...
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Post by joeytalent on May 5, 2018 13:26:45 GMT
Just buy a timing light and do it, it's really straight forward and cheaper than a new engine...
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Post by wannabe on May 8, 2018 12:39:58 GMT
Right, update!
Service done, feels a lot smoother now (15 months since the last change!) and new-to-me alloy rad put in - seems to be running just right temperature-wise now, not moving from the 5-to-12 position along my whole commute, despite the stupidly hot weather, so hopefully I won't have to take it out of gear and coast down hills trying to not get squashed by lorries now!
Still have the tinkling noise, though - I think I have exhaust manifold heatshield rattle but I am pretty certain that is not the noise I'm hearing, so I'm going to get the garage to check the timing when it's next in. I did ask him to do it with the service but he ran out of time, so he can do it when I get him to fit a new track rod to replace the one that has play at the rack end (which will hopefully help my other, steering-play issue!).
I was looking at timing lights but they are about 50 quid for one with an Advance feature, and they all seem to have wires that are too short to reach the battery lol
He did say that he suspects the head gasket might be going, though which I really hope it isn't... I don't want a 1.8 swap, dammit, the 1.6SNC is lovely and revvy!
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Post by joeytalent on May 8, 2018 12:47:08 GMT
Right, update!
Service done, feels a lot smoother now (15 months since the last change!) and new-to-me alloy rad put in - seems to be running just right temperature-wise now, not moving from the 5-to-12 position along my whole commute, despite the stupidly hot weather, so hopefully I won't have to take it out of gear and coast down hills trying to not get squashed by lorries now!
Still have the tinkling noise, though - I think I have exhaust manifold heatshield rattle but I am pretty certain that is not the noise I'm hearing, so I'm going to get the garage to check the timing when it's next in. I did ask him to do it with the service but he ran out of time, so he can do it when I get him to fit a new track rod to replace the one that has play at the rack end (which will hopefully help my other, steering-play issue!).
I was looking at timing lights but they are about 50 quid for one with an Advance feature, and they all seem to have wires that are too short to reach the battery lol
He did say that he suspects the head gasket might be going, though which I really hope it isn't... I don't want a 1.8 swap, dammit, the 1.6SNC is lovely and revvy! There's a +ve feed in the engine bay on the passenger side, right near the strut tower that I used for the timing light. You don't need the advance feature if you're just setting the base timing...
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Post by dadbif on May 8, 2018 16:03:04 GMT
There is indeed, the blue plug...
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Post by wannabe on Nov 3, 2018 15:05:39 GMT
Thanks for everyone's help on this thread! So, fiiinally I have bought a timing light to work out what's wrong (if anything)! This video is the slowest video ever lol, but has helped make the process clear to my incompetent self! How hard can it be?! As a question, do the 1.6 and 1.8 engines have the CAS in different locations? The 1.6 in the video above has it on the left hand side (as you look at the engine while standing in front of the car) but I've also seen videos with someone adjusting something on the right hand side?? EDIT: Here you go: "1989-1993 Miata have the Cam Position sensor on the intake side, the rest is the same."
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Post by Zed. on Nov 3, 2018 15:13:12 GMT
As a question, do the 1.6 and 1.8 engines have the CAS in different locations? Yup mk1 / NA have exhaust (1.6) & inlet (1.8), the later engines use diferent sensor locations (crank pulley & inlet cam pulley?) just because the 1.6 & 1.8 look identical they are diferent engines (1.8 is a 'stretched' 1.6) Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 3, 2018 15:17:44 GMT
As a question, do the 1.6 and 1.8 engines have the CAS in different locations? Yup mk1 / NA have exhaust (1.6) & inlet (1.8), the later engines use diferent sensor locations (crank pulley & inlet cam pulley?) just because the 1.6 & 1.8 look identical they are diferent engines (1.8 is a 'stretched' 1.6) Rich. Cheers!
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Post by jackyboy on Nov 4, 2018 23:40:05 GMT
all sorted?
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Post by wannabe on Nov 5, 2018 0:41:40 GMT
Not yet! I'm a procrastinator at the best of times, but we have some life stuff to get through at the moment so pretty much everything else has stood still.
Timing light is here, though, so I want to at least get that job done at some point this week - it should be simple, and if it fixes the what-sounds-like-pinking issues, I'll be happier to drive it, regardless of the burnt valve issue!
I think the head will just have to come off and be done with TBH. I don't know if I'm capable of getting an exhaust manifold off, though, (even if it's been off at the garage recently to do the gasket) so I think it will be going in for the work - I'm thinking perhaps Mark at PenarthMX5 (or whatever it's called) as his labour rates seem markedly lower than anywhere else.
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 5, 2018 13:17:27 GMT
If you know how to use a socket set, you can get the exhaust manifold off
You may just have to use the wobbly extender bit on a few of the nuts then reinstall a couple of the studs if the nuts don't play ball after being soaked in lubricant
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Post by wannabe on Nov 5, 2018 14:47:11 GMT
If you know how to use a socket set, you can get the exhaust manifold off You may just have to use the wobbly extender bit on a few of the nuts then reinstall a couple of the studs if the nuts don't play ball after being soaked in lubricant I admire your confidence, but I'm not sure I share it lol I know it's not that hard in theory, I just would hate to get halfway through a job and get completely stuck! As Homer Simpson said, trying is the first step towards failure haha
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Post by dadbif on Nov 5, 2018 15:57:08 GMT
You’re a male adult? FFS, It’s only nuts and bolts .... you have to start somewhere and removing a manifold is one of the easiest jobs to do. My granddaughter took mine off last time, she was 14...
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 5, 2018 17:03:37 GMT
It genuinely isn't hard, the most difficult but I have found is getting the manifold out if it's a one-piece manifold and downpipe in one jobbie
Takes a bit of twisting and wiggling but otherwise there isn't any great obstacle to completing the process
The INLET manifold however IS something you should have anxiety over removing. Especially if you value the skin on your knuckles
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