Hi guys, I know this topic has been discussed many times but I'm having a bit of problem with the gear change on my 2006 68k miles NC. It feels notchy/hard to put it in gear (1,2,3) sometimes and even when it's warmed up. I've seen some videos where people change gears like a knife going through butter.
I changed the gear oil to redline mt90 and it didn't make any difference. I filled the turret with gear oil (not sure how much) but the oil kept disappearing from the turret. I must have put 150ml in there and it wasn't staying.
I adjusted the clutch pedal and I think it made a bit of difference, possibly placebo.
Now if I change the oil again to Castrol Syntrans would that make any difference or am I just wasting my money?
mine was really bad, first and second gear were almost impossible without crunching the gears ,replaced the oil with this ford stuff as recommend by the guys on miata.net and it's been great since. the turret is not the same as the mk1 and 2 gearboxes the turret oil will drain down into the gearbox.
Some days it shifts really nicely, some days I want to push it off a cliff.
I've put it on jack stands in the garage and played with the clutch pedal adjustment. I was shifting gears while running, going under adjusting some more untill it felt a lot better. Drove it around town. Spot on.
Next day it was hell. I warmed it up drove it for like an hour and still shifted like the worst thing I ever driven. Later that day, turned it back on, drove to the shops and shifted a dream. What the actual f**k.
I checked, master cylinder, slave cylinder and no leaks. Do I have a dodgy gearbox? I've done everything I could find, oil, turret, shift collar. Help!!!
so if anyone is ready this. I made the gearbox 90% better on a more permanent basis doing all these things which are not new:
- changed the oil using 2.1-2.2 litre of Castrol Syntrans (i tried MTB 90 first) - changed the gear stick collar to the copper brass option for more precise shifting - refilled the turret with more gear oil until it doesn't dissipate (it will stop eventually) - re-adjust the clutch pedal if it doesn't depress fully. I've put it on jack stands, turned the car on and simulated a drive. Got under the dash and adjusted some more until I felt it was going in gear the easiest way. - I have checked the master and slave cylinder for leaks and tested the brake/clutch fluid to check for any moisture.
If you do these steps you will probably see a very small improvement individually but added up it makes a big difference. Good luck.
JamesMk3: Rear left wheel bearing replaced. What a saga. Can now hear noise coming from front right, and alignment is completely knackered. FML.
Jan 14, 2020 15:04:32 GMT
wannabe: I've had both front bearings replaced on the missus' car over the past few months and it's STILL making a droning noise... lol. Need to check if the mechanic actually replaced the correct one the second time I took it in!!
Jan 15, 2020 11:10:07 GMT
FFS Corders: Are the wheels straight? Buckles can cause a drone
Jan 15, 2020 11:41:07 GMT
wannabe: Hmmm... That's an interesting idea... no wheel wobble on the missus' car, which I would have thought was a strong indicator of being out-of-round, but I guess they could be bent side-to-side..??
Jan 15, 2020 14:34:13 GMT
wannabe: Ooooh, interesting - thanks, Howard. I'll have to get the tyres swapped round to see if it makes a difference! I will be most annoyed if it is tyres, seeing as they are only a few months old...
Jan 17, 2020 1:08:22 GMT
howardb66: If it is the tyres, don’t chuck them away, try getting them shaved.
Jan 17, 2020 12:04:28 GMT
wannabe: That sounds pervy haha.
Jan 18, 2020 18:27:11 GMT
fizbne: More build thread updating wow.
Jan 22, 2020 14:24:03 GMT