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Post by zoona on May 27, 2021 12:56:01 GMT
and i have also filled up the diff and gearbox, bled the clutch and attmpted (and failed) to bleed the brakes, and the engine actually drives the wheels!
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Post by zoona on May 27, 2021 20:55:16 GMT
Couldn't get the dash working at all. Started by tracing the main power to it, and that seemed to be fine
Then realised that the track be plastic backing has been scratched and broken. It has been kicking around half attached in the car for so long, i'm surprised it is not worse.
Tried to solder it, but melted a large chunk of the plastic. Just about managed to bridge it, but need to look for a better solution
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Post by Zed. on May 27, 2021 22:30:38 GMT
Couldn't get the dash working at all. Started by tracing the main power to it, and that seemed to be fine Then realised that the track be plastic backing has been scratched and broken. It has been kicking around half attached in the car for so long, i'm surprised it is not worse. Tried to solder it, but melted a large chunk of the plastic. Just about managed to bridge it, but need to look for a better solution what cluster / circuit-film number (I have some spares...) Rich.
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Post by zoona on May 28, 2021 5:04:20 GMT
I'll take a look this morning, thanks For my old t3 bus you could buy replacement kits that were all nicely wired up. I have looked, but can't find a similar product for 5s. Does it need to get a bit older before somebody makes one?... Like this: www.vanagon.org/products/instrument-cluster-foil-repair-kit
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Post by dadbif on May 28, 2021 7:20:21 GMT
Once upon a time you could get adhesive copper strips to repair heated rear windows. I think you’d be better off with an replacement foil circuit as Zed suggests. They become brittle with age.
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Post by Zed. on May 28, 2021 10:19:08 GMT
the vw world has these fixes already in place as they (t25's for example) are 30-40 years old and as they were built to a budget / not expected to continue service this long its whats needed to keep working. does anyone remember the 1980's vw tv advert with the tagline for the record, 1990's vw clusters have been failing for at least the last 10 years, pcb & 'chip' burnouts.... I'd say that theres a majority of Mx5's that have never had their clusters removed so have not suffered from the 'sawing' action of plug or bulb removal that is the main cause of failure. that said, I guess it won't be long before it starts to be more common problem Rich.
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Post by zoona on May 31, 2021 20:52:41 GMT
Made some good progress today.
Found the very obvious earth that I had missed, and it had solved most of my problems. Still can't get lights to pop-up, but they all work which is a massive step forward.
My current goal is just to get the bastard running, and some sort of running in done before I habd it over for shipping. I want to make sure it's not going to overheat, or otherwise blow itself up...
Second covid vaccination tomorrow, and if I feel up to it, dash in, then see if it moves.
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Post by zoona on Jun 4, 2021 21:30:01 GMT
Have been running it to do the first steps of running in
Sounds dreadful and I think it's going to blow up all the time
I also made a quick panel for the gauges as I did have them shoved into some cardboard, which didn't look very good .
Hopefully getting shipped in the next couple of weeks.
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Post by zoona on Jun 6, 2021 18:59:00 GMT
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Post by zoona on Jun 15, 2021 13:47:57 GMT
Something bad happened... well, two bad things as it turns out. It was all fine, until I decided to show my landlord the car running - he is a petrol head and has been laughing at my slow progress. Went to start it and got nothing, apart from a fuel pump running constantly. Spent ages looking at voltages and earths, and was very confused. Then Zed very kindly reminded me that there was a fuse that you are supposed to take out. "No, couldn’t possibly be that. It has been working and I'm not a complete idiot." Turns out I am. Problem number one: I had (at some point) put the ST SIGN fuse back into the fuse box. I think I did this when I put the new loom in as I was checking it all over "Hmm, there seems to be a fuse missing... I shoudl put one in". So it ran for a while, but eventually blew a transistor: With some help from Nix on mx5nutz (putting a Tailgate McNoIndicate straight 6 in an mx5 - worth a look) I got the right parts, and replaced them. Problem number two: Starter motor ate itself. Nope, don’t know. But it did a number on itself: The fact these thing happened at the same time, really confused and distracted me... So, thanks to those who helped. Currently, I have replaced the transistor and a diode that also failed, and the ecu seems to be behaving. I do have a clicking fuel pump relay with key in pos 1. So either I have done more damage to the ecu or I still have an earth problem. The ecu seems to be happy when I connect a pc to it. I have a new starter on order. So as soon as I get and fit that, I can try it...
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nix
New Here
Doing hot girl s**t
Posts: 55
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Post by nix on Jun 15, 2021 14:15:55 GMT
With some help from Nix on mx5nutz (putting a Tailgate McNoIndicate straight 6 in an mx5 - worth a look) I got the right parts, and replaced them. I'm also on here as well
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Post by zoona on Jun 15, 2021 14:27:17 GMT
With some help from Nix on mx5nutz (putting a Tailgate McNoIndicate straight 6 in an mx5 - worth a look) I got the right parts, and replaced them. I'm also on here as well Ah, hello. I didn't realise! I have been away from nutz since they last Canoeed things up, and then away from here when I didn't have time to do anything to the car Hoping to be back a bit more now... Or at least when the car garage the the US and I can find some tracks.
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Post by howardb66 on Jun 15, 2021 14:33:30 GMT
Wow, that starter motor is mashed.
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Post by zoona on Jun 15, 2021 14:34:32 GMT
Good, isn't it?
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nix
New Here
Doing hot girl s**t
Posts: 55
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Post by nix on Jun 15, 2021 14:57:33 GMT
I wanna know what on earth caused the commutator ring to break up like that, never seen anything like it
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