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Post by joeytalent on Aug 5, 2017 19:58:14 GMT
Headed out to another state park today to do some photography and find some driving roads. Turns out closer you get to the Mississippi, the better the roads get. Actual corners!  |
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Post by minty on Aug 5, 2017 22:23:47 GMT
How is she in the bendy stuff?
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 6, 2017 16:54:43 GMT
How is she in the bendy stuff? Better than my wrangler 🤣 Since doing the suspension rebuild and lowering springs, and the new tyres, it feels pretty sharp. Would probably benefit from new discs and pads up front at some point. Even though it isn't that much bigger than an MX5, it feels it. Kinda hard to describe, but it's nowhere near as sharp or light as my old MX5, gear shift is a lot sloppier but I prefer the non-PAS steering. |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 7, 2017 13:52:25 GMT
Has anyone had any experience of Cobra Classic RS seats? Turns out the original Datsun seats are crippling my back. I love the look of them, just not sure how good they are for longer journeys.  |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 14, 2017 12:58:46 GMT
Spotted this morning...  |
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Post by Meerkat on Aug 14, 2017 13:04:38 GMT
Lol! Why deal with your overheating problems when you can just strap on an additional fan?
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 14, 2017 13:22:19 GMT
Lol! Why deal with your overheating problems when you can just strap on an additional fan? I'm fairly sure it's a factory option! 🤣 |
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Post by NurseHolliday on Aug 14, 2017 13:22:41 GMT
Has anyone had any experience of Cobra Classic RS seats? Turns out the original Datsun seats are crippling my back. I love the look of them, just not sure how good they are for longer journeys. A few of my friends had these seats in their classic Minis, I actually found them quite comfortable. I had a similar design but with integrated headset and harness holes, but the sides were the same shape. I only experienced one that was in like new condition and it was quite plush, very comfortable, it was too bouncy for a classic Mini with shot suspension but since you've just upgraded yours, you'll probably find them pretty decent. If you can get them in that 70s ribbed velour, then that's a bonus too! |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 14, 2017 13:40:33 GMT
A few of my friends had these seats in their classic Minis, I actually found them quite comfortable. I had a similar design but with integrated headset and harness holes, but the sides were the same shape. I only experienced one that was in like new condition and it was quite plush, very comfortable, it was too bouncy for a classic Mini with shot suspension but since you've just upgraded yours, you'll probably find them pretty decent. If you can get them in that 70s ribbed velour, then that's a bonus too! Thanks - that's useful. I'd be getting new ones, in the 70s style finish I posted. I've found a company that does bases for them specifically for the 280Z, so I'm going to buy the parts over the next few months. Good news though, Nathan (the body shop owner) has some time free at the end of August, so the rear end will soon be rust free, hole free and super clean with the fiberglass rear bumper. |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 29, 2017 19:48:56 GMT
Saw a Vikings preseason game and a cloudy eclipse. Haven't really done anything on the car other than drive and enjoy it. Blog post coming this weekend with some better pictures.   |
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Post by melx5 on Aug 29, 2017 22:08:17 GMT
Valve Stem SealsThe 280Z burned about 1L of oil across 500 miles, and a quick Google indicated that the problem is likely the little rubber valve stem seals are old and have perished. $18 later and I had twelve new stem seals and thanks to my lovely parents sending me a OHC valve spring compressor tool, and a set of instructions borrowed from the internet. First thing's first, cam cover off:  Oily bits!   Everything looked in good shape, so time to look at getting the springs out:  Pull all the plugs to make turning the engine easier:  Notice anything unusual? Spark plug 3 is different to the rest! So I ordered a replacement, and it turns out that #3 is correct, and the other five are the wrong type. Great. The HT lead also fell apart when I took #5 off, so a replacement set of them was ordered as well. Carrying on - get the first piston at TDC (the cam lobes point to roughly 11 and 1) so the valves are as far up as possible.  Put the car in fourth to stop the engine moving, and then shove about 4 feet of rope in the spark plug hole. This is what's going to keep the valves in place.  Take the retaining springs off the rocker arms:  Then using a 14mm and 17mm spanner, back off the locking nuts and screw the lifters down:  Then compress the valve spring with a screwdriver and take off the rocker arms:  This also exposes the lash pads, which come off nice and easily with a magnet tool. Everything removed so far:  Attach the valve spring compressor:   Push down and the collets are exposed for removal. Again, the magnet tool makes pulling them out easy:  That will let you pull the valve springs off, and the valve stem seals pop right off:  And there we go! You push the new seals on, and then just put everything back together. Took seven hours to do the entire engine. Will see if it's fixed the oil burning issue over the next few weeks. I mentioned earlier that one of the HT leads basically fell apart, so I got some nice NGK replacements - turns out the clip that holds them in place is missing, so I'll try and source a replacement.  I worked for Perkins engines on contract many moons ago and one night got put on cylinder head sub assembly, 36 engines an hour, I had Canoeing nightmares about collets after that! Great car, would be a pile of rust by now if it had lived all its life in the UK |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 30, 2017 22:10:55 GMT
AugustAugust has flown by in a flurry of storms, rain, an eclipse, a few bike rides, ball games, breweries, and a Vikings preseason game. Oh, and a trouble free month of motoring with the 280Z! Rather than try and write up everything, I'm just going to dump a load of pictures from the month with a few descriptions. Most (if not all) of these are from my phone. First up was a 56 mile bike ride to Stillwater. There's trail that runs out there from about 6 miles East of here, so it's a nice quiet ride. I also got a new saddle and shorts that made a HUGE difference to comfort.    Obviously some light refreshment was required after the ride there:   Also a slightly shorter ride (46 miles) out to Enki brewing after work one night:  Some random shots of downtown through the variable weather.     Bit of rain doesn't stop the pedal pubs!  Summer beer dabbler across in St. Paul:   I was lucky enough to catch a Vikings pre-season game against the 49ers.  Oh, and an Eclipse - we got 83% of the sun covered here, and about 99% cloud coverage. 
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Post by minty on Aug 31, 2017 6:44:56 GMT
Great photos.
We need pedal pubs!!!!
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 31, 2017 22:47:28 GMT
Great photos. We need pedal pubs!!!! They're hilarious. Basically everyone pedals, you get it for like 3 hours and just bike between bars whilst drinking. Would probably never be allowed in the UK due to licensing, health and safety and a lack of people that aren't insulted by others having fun. |
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 31, 2017 22:48:22 GMT
Valve Stem SealsThe 280Z burned about 1L of oil across 500 miles, and a quick Google indicated that the problem is likely the little rubber valve stem seals are old and have perished. $18 later and I had twelve new stem seals and thanks to my lovely parents sending me a OHC valve spring compressor tool, and a set of instructions borrowed from the internet. First thing's first, cam cover off: Oily bits! Everything looked in good shape, so time to look at getting the springs out: Pull all the plugs to make turning the engine easier: Notice anything unusual? Spark plug 3 is different to the rest! So I ordered a replacement, and it turns out that #3 is correct, and the other five are the wrong type. Great. The HT lead also fell apart when I took #5 off, so a replacement set of them was ordered as well. Carrying on - get the first piston at TDC (the cam lobes point to roughly 11 and 1) so the valves are as far up as possible. Put the car in fourth to stop the engine moving, and then shove about 4 feet of rope in the spark plug hole. This is what's going to keep the valves in place. Take the retaining springs off the rocker arms: Then using a 14mm and 17mm spanner, back off the locking nuts and screw the lifters down: Then compress the valve spring with a screwdriver and take off the rocker arms: This also exposes the lash pads, which come off nice and easily with a magnet tool. Everything removed so far: Attach the valve spring compressor: Push down and the collets are exposed for removal. Again, the magnet tool makes pulling them out easy: That will let you pull the valve springs off, and the valve stem seals pop right off: And there we go! You push the new seals on, and then just put everything back together. Took seven hours to do the entire engine. Will see if it's fixed the oil burning issue over the next few weeks. I mentioned earlier that one of the HT leads basically fell apart, so I got some nice NGK replacements - turns out the clip that holds them in place is missing, so I'll try and source a replacement. I worked for Perkins engines on contract many moons ago and one night got put on cylinder head sub assembly, 36 engines an hour, I had canoeing nightmares about collets after that! Great car, would be a pile of rust by now if it had lived all its life in the UK Oh I bet. 12 collets was enough! That tool was a lifesaver though, even if I did have to get it from the UK. |
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT