ScottyDugg's Eunos (1.8)

The existing rings are just glued on, they literally just pull off, the new rings just slide in and need glued in place. I used some Gorilla Glue contact adhesive.

I'd buy a couple spare cowls, you might manage first try or you might crack a few, but they aren't that much to pick up I don't think. Something you could do prior to ordering the rings. The only thing is the plastic cover is sometimes quite scratched depending what car it comes out of, I've an acrylic plastic polish I can send you a link to if you need it.

Not installed it yet, but I'll get a few pictures once it's in place.

Nice, thanks for the info - yes makes sense with the spare surrounds, they are cheap as chips arn't they............. good progress with the car too! 

So another weekend past, some more progress.

Painted the spreader plates, so these are ready to fit with the door bars. Intention is to use a combination of black silicone, Waxoyl and brute force to get them on there watertight. I'll refit the seatbelt tower trim as it won't need a huge amount of trimming. But the foot-well trim might wait till everything's back on the road.

Pulled the camshafts out again to assembly lube all the valve train, since it's been sat for a few months. I just need to clean up the block a little then this can go back on. I did re-use my inlet manifold gasket, which was new when I fitted it last year, so I'm hoping that won't cause any issue.

All buttoned up ready to go back in.
IMG_20210301_213311 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20210301_213325 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I did have to re-install the exhaust cam twice, missed an unseated valve shim the first time round, that could have been an expensive mistake!

All this sunny weather is making me regret all these changes I've tried to make at the same time.

In other news, found a local tuner that is happy to tune on my Speeduino ECU, they've done a few already, which is great as they've a good reputation.

I'm just unsure whether to get it tuned NA then get it tuned with the Supercharger fitted or muddle along NA on the basemap, fit the supercharger and get it driveable and then get it to them for tuning (They're about a 40 minute drive away). What do folk think?

I'm not sure what would need to be done to the basemap to get it driveable with a supercharger in all honesty, may a tuning guru could advise.

Anyway, that's where I am for now.

The way the mount works I'd need to run without power steering, which could be possible I've never tried it, but yeah that could definitely be a good solution. I'll need to give it a shot.

The only other thing I could think of is try and borrow the bones of a tune off of someone local, to gingerly run the car down to the tuners. He has a similar setup to me.

Hi,
Its no problem driving without the power steering belt supercharger drive.
Our little Mazdas have Power Assisted Steering not power steering.
The steering becomes quite heavy at parking speeds but no problem once moving.
My old supercharged MX 5 kept throwing it belts, ( MP62 on a four rib belt )with a big intercooler.
Remember the engine will have to suck air through the dormant charger without the belt.
I had dual throttle bodies so I could just disconnect the charger to intercooler hose and drive like that as the oem throttle position had the tps.

Another weekend past and some more work carried out, good to keep chipping away at it, makes you a little more hopeful that it'll actually be a functioning car at some point this year.

Anyway, head was completed last post, so first things first, got some help to lift the whole assembly onto the car, this time with some marks to show where the dowels were on each. Went a lot smoother than last time.
PSX_20210305_201237 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Just prior to this I gave the piston tops a quick once over with some brake cleaner, shifting the burnt oil deposits.
IMG_20210302_193424 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

So from here it's pretty much business as usual, refit, re-seal, re-time....until
IMG_20210303_212939 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Rear timing plate, that sits behind the cam gears, torqueing bolt to spec: tight, tight, loose. After trying to drill it out, easy outs, shouting at it. I managed to walk it out with a hammer and punch (an hour of my life I'll never get back).
IMG_20210304_190751 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Quick run through with a tap and we're back in business. I did discover leaking cam seals tearing it down this time round, so as per Haynes Manual I've tried on the exhaust side, some RTV under the front cap, as well as the usual 6 globs in specified places. See how that goes.

All timed up and covers on:
PSX_20210305_201333 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Tried setting the timing without locking the cams, not worth it, took less time to lock them in position than it did me faffing trying to get it to work without. Car Passion Channel special:
PSX_20210305_201049 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Finally spent some time Sunday fitting the exhaust manifold and exhaust centre section. Always a pain as I've to run thicker gaskets and some paste as they don't align 100% perfectly.
IMG_20210307_181519 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Fixed a snapped power steering bullet connector, mocked up passenger door bar for hopefully the last time before fitting in place, cavity waxed the passenger sill.

I've a second hand aluminium rad to fit, before I can start the engine, but it's two snapped fan bolts on the bottom edge. I've tried backing them out with grips but no joy, plan is to Dremel slots and try that (maybe with some heat). Bought some left handed drill bits so maybe try them out at some stage also.

I think, I've got most of the parts/consumables I need now, it's just a case of throwing enough time at it now.

how do you snap bolts in an aluminium rad? would have expected the threads to strip in the aluminium


heat works to expand the alloy.....

Rich.