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Post by scottydugg on May 17, 2020 19:21:34 GMT
Hi Corders, I would have been tempted to drill and tap the inlet plenum for the IAT sensor, you have the removeable upper part so easy to get rid of swarf, that would take heat soak into the casting into account and be more accurate. You can ditch the plastic lump as well then. I understand you have gone for the quick fix at the moment. I have mounted mine into the air filter backplate between 2 and 3 cylinders. Any pictures of the positioning of this please? |
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Post by FFS Corders on May 26, 2020 18:28:51 GMT
Long weekend gave me a chance to do some more work on why the AFR signal wasn't showing up in Tunerstudio First up was throwing my idea of reverible wiring out the window and splicing into the ECU harness right by the plug. The Red/Blue wire (Pin 2N) went to the white on the AEM loom, black/light green (Pin 2D) to brown, black (Pin 2B) to black. Lastly the red AEM wire i spliced into the 12v switched live on the radio with a 5A fuse. Which was a mistake as this turns off when cranking which restarts the wideband, so that'll get moved somewhere else at some point    This still didn't have the desired effect so i went back to my original suspicion of the ECU being the issue. I showed a picture of the board to JoshO and he noticed that the jumper labelled "lambda" wasn't over the track that goes to the red/blue pin on the harness. Swapped it to the right place and it worked, hooray! Now it's possible to get the ECU to tune to AFR target  Having dragged one of the wiring looms back through the firewall, there was lots of space left in the hole i'd enlarged so this allowed me to cut up and fit a grommet as per previous advice!  So now the car is sat back on the ground for the first time since the beginning of lockdown and ready to be taxed on Friday for road tuning  |
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Post by dadbif on May 26, 2020 21:19:07 GMT
I made up an adaptor loom that went between the original Ecu plugs and the megasquirt , so I can in the future revert to original Ecu. Not that it will ever happen, but it was fun making it...
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Post by FFS Corders on May 27, 2020 8:44:11 GMT
That's a very sensible idea! If I had planned better at the start I probably should have done that - would allow the ECU more play to be moved about in the airbag area too as the plugs don't come out very far after being pushed up behind the heater and AC units
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Post by scottydugg on May 27, 2020 8:48:46 GMT
I've seen people use the 12v power to the cigarette lighter for power to the AEM, although that'd need to be confirmed that it's constant during cranking. Keep battling, this is all very useful stuff.
On a side note, DIY-EFI do a adaptor harness from the IAT to the original MAF plug, he just hasn't listed it on his website yet (maybe a bit late for you).
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Post by FFS Corders on May 27, 2020 13:23:23 GMT
I've seen people use the 12v power to the cigarette lighter for power to the AEM, although that'd need to be confirmed that it's constant during cranking. Keep battling, this is all very useful stuff. On a side note, DIY-EFI do a adaptor harness from the IAT to the original MAF plug, he just hasn't listed it on his website yet (maybe a bit late for you). Thanks for the tips, i'm torn between using the lighter or going off the interior fuse wiring from the fuse box in the driver's footwell. Cigarette lighter is closer and means less length of wire to feed through stuff, but the fusebox is probably the more sensible idea. I'll see how i feel when i get to that point! I'm definitely interested in a MAF harness depending how it looks. it will surely be neater than what i've got now, although it would involve wiring the MAF plug back in... I think i've managed to get the slow speed idle right. I started by fixing the timing to 10 degrees as per the carpassionchannel video, then started adjusting the VE table until it was near 14.7. Set the AFR to "use table" and it was very unhappy until i removed 4 degrees from the whole ignition table, after which it's sitting at 14.6 at idle around 850-900 revs, but if i give it a blip to over 2k, the numbers go all over the place and it takes a good few seconds to settle down again. I'm going to assume the road tuning will help that, but will report back after the weekend  |
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Post by scottydugg on May 27, 2020 13:49:21 GMT
I have read about taking it off the internal fusebox as well, maybe that's more of an OEM solution. The harness is similar to the 1.6 listed on his site HEREHope that helps. |
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Post by FFS Corders on May 27, 2020 14:20:44 GMT
I have read about taking it off the internal fusebox as well, maybe that's more of an OEM solution. The harness is similar to the 1.6 listed on his site HEREHope that helps. Yeah, also i'll probably end up doing it that way as i can't be bothered to remove the centre console to get at the lighter socket - simpler to feed a wire across the footwell haha I've seen the 1.6 harness, really neat looking item! Definitely something to put on the list for making everything tidy later on |
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Post by lowender on May 28, 2020 8:08:10 GMT
On my '95 1.8 with MS2 I connected the AEM to the loom just by the ECU plug - spliced the 12v in to the ECU 12v in at pin 1B, earthed to the same point as the ECU earth to avoid a voltage differential. I get he same AFR readings on the AEM gauge and Tunerstudio. There's likely to be interference problems taking the power from elsewhere.
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Post by Zed. on May 28, 2020 8:54:19 GMT
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Post by FFS Corders on May 28, 2020 10:58:06 GMT
I've only had the engine running with no radio plugged in so far and the readings on the gauge match those in tunerstudio, which was a relief, so i'm pretty happy with the ground going to the OEM position at the moment. Thanks for the info Zed, it's definitely one for doing later on Thanks Lowender, the 12v into the ECU harness wire would definitely be best, but i'm a bit nervous about interrupting the feed to the ECU. But then i'm on a roll with cutting ECU wires so why stop now . I'll see how i feel about it at the weekend, keeping all the wires within that airbag cubby is very neat too and i know that wire is fed while cranking so it's probably a winner I also saw Bilbo's thoughts about having a switch on the wideband 12v feed so it's not sat there heated up with the engine not running but ignition on, which sounds very sensible indeed. I'll have to look through my collection of random stuff for an on/off switch (hopefully i've still got my other aeroplne style flip lid switch somewhere to complement the one for my pop-ups...) |
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Post by FFS Corders on Jun 3, 2020 20:34:52 GMT
Went for a good 30 minute drive with tune analyze live running and it took looooads of fuel out of my VE table. i've had a fairly tiring 2 weeks at work so not got much energy to properly update, i'll do it when i get a little more time.
Also i've been getting parts together ready to fix the gearbox in the Suzuki Baleno GSR so mx5 might take a bit of a break now i know it runs and drives. The idle has decided to go all lumpy now which is annoying, so i will look into it when i next get the laptop in the car
But overall i'm well happy with how everything went; the car felt great while driving although the exhaust and the driveshaft are still mating so that needs sorting soon! Also the BOFI polybush engine mounts have really increased the NVH - i definitely wouldnt want to run these if the car was in more frequent use
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Post by FFS Corders on Jul 21, 2020 21:48:40 GMT
Hopefully fixed the exhaust + driveshaft issue by swapping the Cybox for a Borla. Now got a potential doff casing + exhaust issue instead. Soon to be fixed with a hammer. Haven't started the car in ages but will soon be moving it into a garage due to some living arrangement changes so will have a nice motorway drive to do some more autotuning on Not sure i like the downturned tip, but that's something I can sort any time by taking it to an exhaust shop   |
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Post by FFS Corders on Jul 23, 2020 21:57:33 GMT
Took it for a drive to test it out, didn't hear any clanging but definitely going to move the fin out of the way
Also it helps to check your wheels nuts are still tight after having it up in the air for a while.
Next up is fix the gearbox in the Suzuki and move the rest of my stuff to the garage. Probably going to be selling a few of the things I have accumulated over the last 3 years like Koni yellow shocks and an Active strut brace
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Post by FFS Corders on Sept 17, 2020 7:49:58 GMT
So the car made it to my the new place just fine. Definitely needs more tuning as it doesn't like coming off and back on throttle. For some reason the forum has decided i've moved to Australia  However it has now turned into a rather expensive shelf for all the rubbish I need to sell or bin over the next few months.  |
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le sigh