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Post by Zed. on Feb 16, 2019 17:31:05 GMT
meanwhile..... some ppf delete ideas as found on miataturbo.net the idea above but maybe not the exact implimentation having rubber cushoning between the ppf section is good as the drive torque reaction will try to lift the diff's 'nise' upwards against the rear suspension frame and as a diferent idea, from www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/just-your-average-k24-drysump-stocksubframe-s2000trans-build-nasa-wrl-96178/to be fair, this is clever and has a longer reaction, wonder how much torque 'twist' would be imposed on the bodyshell / tunnel side and maybe the stress-cracking of the re-used ppf section if I delete the ppf & use the ford gearbox then a new gearbox rear mount would need making, this could also intigrate the extention of the ppf as a foreward mount but I'm possibly thinking too hard about this Rich
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Post by dadbif on Feb 16, 2019 21:33:43 GMT
I concur with the final line of your post....
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Post by Whistler on Feb 17, 2019 8:56:15 GMT
Definitely over thinking it dude. Just remove the PPF and have done with it.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 17, 2019 16:42:28 GMT
quaife also make a 6speed sequential gearbox & suitable conversion bellhousing (bellhousing is ~£700 retail!, think its ~£7k+ for the sequential box?) and if I'm correct, this does not use the ppf........ For the record - The Quaife sequential box can be adapted to retain the PPF. okey, f if anyone else wonders about spendind silly ammounts of cash on a gearbox... the image above is from a miataturbo.net thread www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/quaife-sequential-na-nb-86396/#post1331985Rich.
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Post by Whistler on Feb 18, 2019 11:54:16 GMT
Have you thought about an FD gearbox conversion? Check this out...
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Post by Zed. on Feb 18, 2019 18:06:36 GMT
Have you thought about an FD gearbox conversion? Check this out... I've seen this conversion on the forums, some use adaptor-plates and the one you linked is a welded MX5 gearcase to create the bellhousing don't know if I like the ppf adaption though..... I do have a 'spool-gun' mig set thats designed for welding aluminium, may construct my own bellhousing although I would need to pull a favour (or two) to 'borrow' machinery for the rest of the 'makin....... Rich.
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Post by Whistler on Feb 18, 2019 19:43:39 GMT
Have you thought about an FD gearbox conversion? Check this out... I've seen this conversion on the forums, some use adaptor-plates and the one you linked is a welded MX5 gearcase to create the bellhousing I do have a 'spool-gun' mig set thats designed for welding aluminium, may construct my own bellhousing although I would need to pull a favour (or two) to 'borrow' machinery for the rest of the 'makin....... Rich. There are some adapter plates for the T2 (FC), but the issue is that the gearboxes are fairly rare and therefore expensive. The welded bell housing solution is for the FD box, which should be good for 500bhp and are only a few hundred quid in the UK. The hard part would be getting the bell housings cut, but I'm sure a capable machine shop would be able to do it.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 20, 2019 17:39:35 GMT
okey, more ramblings (& knowlege sharing.....) trawling through the back of quaife's online pdf dump I found a page titled "INPUT SHAFT COMPARISON CHART" shop.quaife.co.uk/downloads/pdfs/QBE60G-Inputs.pdfthis was aimed at their QBE60G 6speed sequential gearbox possible options to 'fit' certain cars when using their bellhousings.... so, my idea to use a Sierra type gearbox (FORD 4-CYL (SHORT) on the drawing) shows this as 79mm shorter than their offering for a MAZDA MX-5 (also, the 'spiggot' diameter being 9mm longer on the ford option meaning that the back-face of the cylinder-block to the clutch splines are diferent dimensions between the ford & mazda engines - handy to know BEFORE I go choppin stuff around and for anyone interested, the 6speed conversion drawing pdf (with the quaife bellhousing dimensions) shop.quaife.co.uk/downloads/pdfs/E-60G2-01-MX5-01.pdfSorta anyway.... Rich.
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Post by dickie on Feb 20, 2019 21:32:15 GMT
Hi Zed, A bit off your topic ! I hope you have checked the Blue Book.( CD / Online ) You will have to run in the Modified class with a gearbox change even a 6 speed in a Mk 1 puts you in modified So you will need serious power to be competitive. I suspect you know this already. All the Hillclimbs down in the far west only I use 1st /2nd /3rd The top end of third is good for around 80 MPH in my car, with OEM rev limit. You can always try a set of 14" or 15" wheels depending on venue. I take you are going for a Blown Engine ( Forced induction for the youngsters )
Cheers Dickie
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Post by Zed. on Feb 21, 2019 0:51:05 GMT
Hi Zed, A bit off your topic ! I hope you have checked the Blue Book.( CD / Online ) You will have to run in the Modified class with a gearbox change even a 6 speed in a Mk 1 puts you in modified So you will need serious power to be competitive. I suspect you know this already. All the Hillclimbs down in the far west only I use 1st /2nd /3rd The top end of third is good for around 80 MPH in my car, with OEM rev limit. You can always try a set of 14" or 15" wheels depending on venue. I take you are going for a Blown Engine ( Forced induction for the youngsters ) Cheers Dickie always good to have input, even if its off-topic (my speciality!) I know theres a line between roadgoing & road modified, then theres modified I've looked at the 'Motorsports-Assasin's blue-book (admittedly an old copy ~ 2011ish as thats the last time I had a competition licence, last time I navigated, been servicing & building since) but not had a good look at current regs online, theres also regional championchip and venue sr's that can mess-up fun but I'll get hold of the Welsh Hillclimb Association or whatever they are called to find out once I've built the collection of parts thats spread around half done it's been a few years since I last drove competitively (cough2001cough, that year I wrote-off 2 rallycars is it a good idea for me to try again?) I'm undecided on engine at the moment, the car has a 1.6 that seems healthy and I may just run with that? I also have an early 1.8 conversion in the shed, theres also a Mercedes sourced m45 supercharger on the shelf so maybe the 1.6 & m45 as this gives a class capacity of 2.24L (1.6L multiplied by 1.4 for forced induction) so maybe I'll be tempted with a Vauxhall 'XE' as they are more powerfull than the mazda engines, cheaper to tune & I have a few........... as to tyres, you forgot 13" (is your severn on 16" or 17"?) something else I need to look into are rollcages & safety equipment, whats the rollcage requirements for a '5? also are seats 'free' or do they need to be in date etc. AND... hopefully I can avoid the 'hans' expense www.motorsportuk.org/assets/339-350specificregulationsforsprintshillclimbsanddragracings-1.pdf^^ some light reading Rich.
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Post by dickie on Feb 21, 2019 20:24:41 GMT
Enjoy your Light Reading, Rally car classes seem to get away with engine and gearbox swaps.( Mx 5 Rally car coming up ) Find your local Motor Club Association and see what the local event class structure is.
If you run a stripped out car you will need a Harness and Roll Hoop, As far as I am aware seats are free for sprints and hillclimbs. Be aware that the rear deck cover will have to be flame proof taped around the roll hoop and any other opening to the cabin area due to the position of the fuel tank.
I you are road going you should not need the Hans Device.
I use 19" wheels on the Austin for VSCC events. Other events I use 17" wheels with 3.25 section tyres I am quicker up Wiscombe with these on as it makes third gear usable.
Interesting Idea's for the PPF delete Have fun with your project.
Cheers Dickie
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Post by noobie on Feb 22, 2019 9:14:37 GMT
Be aware that the rear deck cover will have to be flame proof taped around the roll hoop and any other opening to the cabin area due to the position of the fuel tank. Sorry to barge in on the discussion, but does anyone have an idea why this is? I think the point of most regulations is having a flame/liquid proof firewall between the tank and driver, but the chassis tank bubble sits right between the deck cover and tank. Why doesn't that count as a fire wall? I believe you can make it flame/fire proof without much difficulty. Maybe only need to box in the small bit around the filler hose.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 23, 2019 11:49:36 GMT
Be aware that the rear deck cover will have to be flame proof taped around the roll hoop and any other opening to the cabin area due to the position of the fuel tank. Sorry to barge in on the discussion, but does anyone have an idea why this is? I think the point of most regulations is having a flame/liquid proof firewall between the tank and driver, but the chassis tank bubble sits right between the deck cover and tank. Why doesn't that count as a fire wall? I believe you can make it flame/fire proof without much difficulty. Maybe only need to box in the small bit around the filler hose. don't be sorry, all usefull thoughts from my experience with rallying, scrutineers will look for a liquid / fume barrier between the passanger compartment & the engine-bay, also the same applies if theres liquids stored in boot area (fuel & oil tanks for example) obvoiusly, this is also down to the individual scrutineer & their interpretation / eyes if the 'barrier' is also flame-resistant / retardant then better but rubber wiring gromets are a fine example of a 'barrier' (amusingly, the self-adhisive aluminium 'duct-lagging' tape is a legal 'barrier' - also lightwieght ) at the end of the day, motorsport ( general driving) is dangerous! we drive mobile fireballs that are dormant Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Mar 16, 2019 21:36:23 GMT
thread resurection & to show I'm still thinking about this a while ago I tripped over comments of a subaru flat engine in a '5 chassis... www.miataone.com/anyway, they use the ppf so... more ideas in the melting-pot Rich.
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Post by Whistler on Apr 9, 2019 19:46:55 GMT
thread resurection & to show I'm still thinking about this a while ago I tripped over comments of a subaru flat engine in a '5 chassis... www.miataone.com/anyway, they use the ppf so... more ideas in the melting-pot Rich. That's a really tidy conversion!
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