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Post by wannabe on Jun 30, 2019 21:13:26 GMT
My issue was that, having not done it before, I wasn't sure how much silicon sealant stuff to use - so it squished into the circular area where the cam oil seal goes the first time, which put me off sliding the oil seal on and then fitting the cam cap on top of it for the second one! I subsequently used a metal ruler and hammer to get the bastard seals in after I'd scraped/picked the spare silicon from where it should be...  lol I don't have a 'little' torque wrench so I did the cam cap bolts by hand - tighten to the point of being very difficult, then one more small tweak... Hopefully that is about right, haha  Now I just have to lift the whole lot onto the block when the dowels/collets finally arrive. It's nice to have the main parts all done in the head but it is not light when it's all in one lump.... lol |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 30, 2019 21:33:47 GMT
I subsequently used a metal ruler and hammer to get the bastard seals in big-enough socket or bit of tube?  Now I just have to lift the whole lot onto the block when the dowels/collets finally arrive. It's nice to have the main parts all done in the head but it is not light when it's all in one lump.... lol when fitting (dropping??) the head on the block/gasket, fit some sort of studding or dowel-rod in 2 opposite end head-bolt-holes (the ones that the dowels fot is always a good pair) to help with alignment, this also stops you using the new dowels as some kind of cutting-tool against the recently skimmed gasket surface  helps to radius the tops of these 'studs' to aid in 'finding the holes'  ^^obvious I know BUT I've watched people who should've known better struggle & swear to align a head (& have it leak from the gasket-joint afterwards ) Rich. (you can tell me to shurrup...) |
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Post by wannabe on Jun 30, 2019 22:12:10 GMT
All useful stuff, thank you very much!  I am sure the missus' old man has some doweling of some kind - I will seek it out! I was so close on using a socket to get the oil seals in but the 1-1/4" socket in the Halfords set is the biggest in there and didn't *quite* fit... lol |
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Post by wannabe on Jul 4, 2019 14:17:57 GMT
Should have asked this before the hour I start to work on it...
... but fitting the locating collets / dowels - do I need to tap them into a block with a hammer and a flat surface (e.g. a metal ruler)?
They only go about halfway down what appears to be the slot for them, and I am not sure it is wise to hand-fit them and then tighten the head down until they are forced into both the head and the block??
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Post by dadbif on Jul 4, 2019 14:23:50 GMT
Just tap them in, they are only to keep the head square with the block. Top tip, stop overthinking and get on with it 😉
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Post by wannabe on Jul 4, 2019 14:33:44 GMT
Just tap them in, they are only to keep the head square with the block. Top tip, stop overthinking and get on with it 😉 Thanks, dadbif - I just don't want to canoe it up as I am all new to this / hate doing things wrong / like getting things right the first time / like to learn from the wisdom of those much better than me! I ordered 3 so I have a spare - let's see if I can not ruin it all... |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 4, 2019 21:12:51 GMT
I’m sure you won’t, just make sure the holes that the dowels go into are deep enough to allow them seat far enough, you don’t want them to stop the head seating, I have never had it happen, but it pays to check.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 4, 2019 22:11:41 GMT
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Post by wannabe on Jul 6, 2019 11:42:21 GMT
haha I’m sure you won’t, just make sure the holes that the dowels go into are deep enough to allow them seat far enough, you don’t want them to stop the head seating, I have never had it happen, but it pays to check. I did read a comment on a random forum about checking if a skim was too much and the holes left wouldn't be deep enough  so you have reiterated that potential concern! I've tapped the dowels into the block and they look straight but I'm not sure how far they go in - there appears to be sort of a 'ring' towards the bottom of the dowel hole, although it's a ring with a diameter larger than the dowel hole so I'm not sure what's going on there? lol. I have seen somewhere on the internet that one can use a headbolt and tubing to bring the dowels into the head straight, so I'm hoping that tightening the headbolts with the head on will get the dowels in as far as they need to go in a similar manner... Will let you know how it goes! |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 6, 2019 21:01:20 GMT
The “ring” at the bottom of the dowel hole will be the bit of the block left when the drill reached the correct depth.
As for using bolts etc for fitting the dowels, just twat them with a hammer!!! They are only to align the head..,
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Post by wannabe on Jul 7, 2019 10:03:02 GMT
Thanks for the confirmation! I wish I had a workshop and skills  lol While waiting for it to get late enough in the morning to make noise while bashing the dowels in a bit further I thought I'd clean the headbolts up. Surface pitting, anyone?   EDIT: FFS, why are the links not working Try this link: i64.tinypic.com/2hzkahy.jpgNot quite sure why it's like it - it's on the intake side so not by the cylinder with the leaking exhaust valve. It's only the one bolt but I fear snapping it if it's weakened! At least the head appears to be sitting correctly - it was up slightly on the doeels side, but some wiggling to try to check alignment of holes seems to have dropped it onto the gasket/block face, so I think all is good on that front. I was going to ask which way up the head bolt washers go but it looks like it's dished side up, in that the 'lip' on the bottom side seems to have scored the head seating face previously, so guess that is correct. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 7, 2019 10:39:27 GMT
No pics...
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Post by Zed. on Jul 7, 2019 11:40:32 GMT
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Post by wannabe on Jul 8, 2019 21:51:59 GMT
Gnarrrrgh There is going to be a mysterious fire soon...  Today was spent trying to get Canoeing tinypic to upload (failed every time, and both Imgur and the forum image uploader don't work on my phone). Then, tonight was spent fastidiously cleaning headbolts, 'lightly oiling' them and attempting to fit them. I'm only doing them hand-tight using a ratchet extension thing but no ratchet, and while occasionally 'stiff', most have got down to fully-in and the bolt shoulders able to touch the washer. However, as it turns out, Intake 2 and 4 bolts and Exhaust 4 bolt simply will NOT screw in I've swapped those bolts one-by-one with other bolts that screwed into their respective holes easily, and those bolts screwed into the other holes just fine, whereas the bolts from those working holes refused to screw in to the I2, I4 and E4 bolt holes... I2, I4 and E4 just get 'stuck' about half-inch to an inch out of the hole. They feel like I could force them with a ratchet, but I don't want to cross-thread them and completely Canoe the block holes I've had pipe-cleaners down the holes and removed what I can, I've used some thick paper towel round a stiff, unzipped zip-tie to see if anything comes out, and it just seems like nothing is really in there. I've also taken care not to put much more than a sheen of oil on them, so there's no risk of hydrolocking them. So... are there any recommendations?? My current thinking is that I need to remove the head again, check out the bolt holes (even more) closely, take up Zed.'s very kind offer of a special head-bolt to use to clean the hole threads, do some more pipe-cleaning, then just say Canoe it and screw the damn head down and be done with, cross-threaded or not?? I simply don't know what else I can do with an immobile car in bits on a driveway. In the meantime, would it be safe to 'nip up' all the other bolts and leave these three, then do the timing roughly so I can check valve clearances (seeing as the pistons currently have plasticine in the cut-outs for that purpose)? I don't want to do the bolts up super-tight and force anything more often than I have to... Apologies for the hassles, I really do appreciate the input from those with a lot more experience and knowledge than me. It's just so irritating - everything is simple in the book and I understand the theory, but an old engine with previous work done is not a new engine with new parts and zero issues |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 8, 2019 22:22:04 GMT
if you are just checking clearances then the corners & 'middle' boldts 'nipped' should give a rough idea (BUT the headgasket will clamp /compress more when the bolting is fully tightened ) did you not try the bolts in their holes after you'd cleaned? - sorry but its something I do instinctively  S hit photo warning! *some I prepared earlier*  sorta what I do...  hopefully the photo shows the way I cut them, sorta like a thread-cutting 'tap'   I also cut the heads from a few bolts & cut a slot in their top, use them to help align the head on the block (when 'dropping' it on) sorta... Rich. |
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lol
so you have reiterated that potential concern!
lol
