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Post by wannabe on Jul 8, 2019 22:57:19 GMT
Thanks for the (tiny   ) pictures!  You are right, I should have tested the bolts in the holes before fitting the head - the joys of doing something for the first time, trusting the manuals to be literally-every-step-by-step(-but-actually-missing-common-sense-tips  ) and learning along the way...  I'll have to get the head off after adding the timing belt and testing clearances anyway, so I'll go over the holes again and get the torch out to see if anything is obviously blocking anything. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 8, 2019 23:14:59 GMT
learning along the way... every day is a school day............. suppose I am a student so I am double qualified to sat that Rich.(old git) |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 9, 2019 8:01:31 GMT
“I'll have to get the head off after adding the timing belt and testing clearances anyway, so I'll go over the holes again and get the torch out to see if anything is obviously blocking anything.”
It will only be something simple like crap in the threads... do as zed suggests and modify an old head bolt.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 9, 2019 9:49:39 GMT
I like your optimism! I am generally Mr Worst Case Scenario so always fear the worst  lol |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 9, 2019 10:35:31 GMT
I like your optimism! I am generally Mr Worst Case Scenario so always fear the worst lol Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 9, 2019 16:36:58 GMT
Just to add fuel to your flaming paranoia, when you put the head on and before tightening it down, get a .0015” feeler gauge and check all around the head making sure there are no gaps between the head and block 😉.
Said .0015” feeler known as the “fitters friend” in engineering circles...
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Post by wannabe on Jul 9, 2019 21:48:25 GMT
Just to add fuel to your flaming paranoia, when you put the head on and before tightening it down, get a .0015” feeler gauge and check all around the head making sure there are no gaps between the head and block 😉. Said .0015” feeler known as the “fitters friend” in engineering circles... Something like this? www.moss-europe.co.uk/feeler-gauge-imperial-10-blades-mtr191502.htmlThe block and head better bloody be flat after all this hassle...  lol |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 9, 2019 22:05:16 GMT
Just to add fuel to your flaming paranoia, when you put the head on and before tightening it down, get a .0015” feeler gauge and check all around the head making sure there are no gaps between the head and block 😉. Said .0015” feeler known as the “fitters friend” in engineering circles... Something like this? www.moss-europe.co.uk/feeler-gauge-imperial-10-blades-mtr191502.htmlThe block and head better bloody be flat after all this hassle... lol save a few quid, go buy a pack of 'BLUE' rizzla cigarette papers, put one on each corner with 1/2 - 2/3 of the paper on the cylinder block & remaining overhanging (in the middle if you want to be adventurous?), drop head in place & see if the papers are clamped the 'BLUE' papers are the thinnest....... Rich (ex smoker...) |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 10, 2019 5:22:38 GMT
There should be a set of feelers (or fag papers) in every tool box! 15 thou used to be the favourite when cars had proper ignition.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 10, 2019 21:50:06 GMT
Right, so that potentially dodgy headbolt picture...  |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 10, 2019 22:18:35 GMT
If the corrosion / damage is near the head then it'll probably be fine, worst case it will fail whan tightened - easily sorted by lifting the head (the gasket should be fine unless it's 'stuck' to the head & block) obviously, better to replace. I might have cut a few better ones recently Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 11, 2019 12:36:58 GMT
Good to see you are still moving forward with this, some of the questions you've asked have helped me plan for my head swap, so don't feel daft for asking as I didn't know either!
I ended up getting a tap to clear the head bolts on the block, as I found a cheap one on ebay.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 11, 2019 22:00:09 GMT
So tonight's minimal, slow progress, spurred on by a missus standing there waiting for me to do something... (give it a break, dear): - cleaning all the threads on the bolts I was going to use - cleaning the cam pulleys of the gunk on them from (I presume) the wearing of the previous belt - getting the water inlet pipe / thermostat housing thing on - I re-used the O-ring because the one I got in the post looks too weedy in thickness and too large in diameter for the hole?? Plus the current one is not that old and is still proud of the surface, so fingers crossed... - getting the front sealing plate on - getting the camshaft pulleys on (and hoping the 'medium strength', 150degree Loctite blue threadlock stuff (242? 248?) has a high enough temperature rating) - getting the cambelt idler pulley on Was nice to break out the new addition to the toolkit, the Halfords Pro 20-100Nm torque wrench (I've not had one before) - I thought it was surprisingly low effort needed for some bolts, I was expecting it to feel like I was about to snap heads off. (Maybe that's what the headbolts feel like, at something like 80lbft IIRC??). I am hopeful the thermostat housing o-ring will hold because it looks like you have to take the cam pulleys and the front sealing plate off to get it off again I also am not looking forward to getting the head off and then back on again - the front sealing plate looks like it will make alignment a PITA, potentially, what with needing to get it behind the cambelt pulleys... (I may take the pulleys off TBH.) Next annoying questions are: - the manuals recommend copper grease on the cambelt tensioner pulley pivot point, but I recall that it is not actually recommended any more because the copper 'granules' can cause wear over time. - should I instead use some sort of ceramic grease, if I can find some locally? - or is the ceramic stuff just for brakes? e.g. www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/maintenance-fluids-and-greases/grease/?526770250 I will order a single new headbolt to replace that dodgy one and hopefully that's the last of the things I need to order. All the bits here and there has cost me loads more in postage than if I knew at the start everything that would need replacing! A big thanks to Zed/Rich, though, for his very kind gesture of sending a cleaner bolt thing and also bolts to align the head with when fitting it  |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 11, 2019 22:44:40 GMT
I thought it was surprisingly low effort needed for some bolts, I was expecting it to feel like I was about to snap heads off. (Maybe that's what the headbolts feel like, at something like 80lbft IIRC??). iIrc, with a 'normal' sized 19mm combination spanner, you can easily tighten to 90ft/lbs, thats before you feel your elbow or sholder creak! probably 25 years ago I used to repair a lot of Rover 214 cars withe the lovely all aluminium K16 engine, the cylinderheads & gaskets failed as an almost 'service' item (bad build quality NOT engine design! - another story there  ) , the camcaps are a girdle affair secured to the head with about a thousand m5 bolts that are torqued to some silly pressure like ~11tf/lbs, actually bought a 1/4" drive torque wrench for that! also got a screwdriver-style (twist-grip) 1/4" drive 'clock-type' torque meter for small stuff... thats what ~30 years of fiddlin does want a complete headbolt posted? Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Jul 12, 2019 7:23:43 GMT
You've already been generous with the special headbolts!
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) pictures! 
) and learning along the way... 
lol
lol
) , the camcaps are a girdle affair secured to the head with about a thousand m5 bolts that are torqued to some silly pressure like ~11tf/lbs, actually bought a 1/4" drive torque wrench for that!
