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Post by scottydugg on Apr 19, 2020 9:47:39 GMT
Bear in mind that you will want to retain the MK1 throttle body as the sensor connections on MK2 are different. Plus the body will be further back so needs the shorter MK2 throttle cable, unless you are good at shortening them of course! If you make a small plate about an inch long you can move the mk1 throttle cable up to take up the slack - this is how mine is currently fitted until I get round to swapping over to a mk2 cable. If you are going to the hassle of swapping I'd probably fit the mk2 throttle body too and swap the connections over as the IAC plumbing is much neater. Again, another job on my list! I've got a mk2 throttle body, do you know what's needed to do the swap? I'll take it the plugs are different and I'd need correct pipework. |
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jon
Chats A Lot
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Post by jon on Apr 19, 2020 10:12:12 GMT
The plugs are different, and you will need to change / plug the pipework yep as the mk1 pipework has feeds for the IAC valves which would no longer be needed...
The pinout inside the plug is different as well from what I can tell as well - I'm not sure the the calibration is the sale, so if you are using the standard ECU is may throw things off...
It's still on my list to do - I have a Skunk2 throttle body and mk2 IACs to put on when I get round to starting the 'winter' jobs on the car!
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 20, 2020 8:47:51 GMT
The plugs are different, and you will need to change / plug the pipework yep as the mk1 pipework has feeds for the IAC valves which would no longer be needed... The pinout inside the plug is different as well from what I can tell as well - I'm not sure the the calibration is the sale, so if you are using the standard ECU is may throw things off... It's still on my list to do - I have a Skunk2 throttle body and mk2 IACs to put on when I get round to starting the 'winter' jobs on the car! Thanks jon, still the standard ECU so I think I'll leave this as a future project. When you do get round to it I'd be interested to see how you get on though. Regarding the head, the machine shop wants a look at it, so they can see what work is actually required, if it's too much I'll be shelving this project for now. Now's a great time to be doing the timing belt/water pump, so we'll see how everything falls together. |
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Post by scottydugg on May 1, 2020 12:40:48 GMT
Heads been sent to the machine shop, along with all the other bits, so that they can re-cut and check.
I'm glad I got the BP4W for free, otherwise this would sting a little. Maybe I should have just chucked it straight in, but at least I'll know it's starting from the best possible condition.
Also got a Speeduino ECU on it's way so could eventually go the mk2 throttle body, although this will probably be a winter project as I don't have a wideband and hadn't realised they're the price they are.
Trying to source some flow tested mk2 Denso Injectors, or get the set I have tested.
All going well, I'll probably pull it all apart in the next week or so.
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Post by scottydugg on May 29, 2020 9:44:16 GMT
And just like that, it's back:  IMG_20200527_202314 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20200527_202342 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Valve seats re-cut and bucket shims reset to suit, added bonus the heads been washed again and carbon buildup is gone. I'll need to go through it and torque everything to spec, do I need to cover the cam shafts in assembly lube or will cranking for oil pressure before startup be enough? Not sure when this will happen as the wife's car has a small leak in the water pump so ideally I need this fixed first. The joys! |
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Post by dickie on May 30, 2020 13:01:27 GMT
Make sure that the cam bearings are at least covered in engine oil before you fit them and torque the bearing caps down, ( Cam Lube is better ) The same goes for the buckets lube up before install, and make sure the cam journels are lubed up again cam lube is best as it does not drain out. Disconnect the coilpack and crank the engine over to circulate oil before attempting a start up ( Remove spark plugs first ) Crank the engine over four or five times for about four seconds each time to stop the starter motor getting to hot.
Then connect coilpacks back up re fit the plugs and have a go at starting the engine.
Then go for a Drive with a big Grin !!!
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Post by scottydugg on May 30, 2020 14:02:44 GMT
Make sure that the cam bearings are at least covered in engine oil before you fit them and torque the bearing caps down, ( Cam Lube is better ) The same goes for the buckets lube up before install, and make sure the cam journels are lubed up again cam lube is best as it does not drain out. Disconnect the coilpack and crank the engine over to circulate oil before attempting a start up ( Remove spark plugs first ) Crank the engine over four or five times for about four seconds each time to stop the starter motor getting to hot.
Then connect coilpacks back up re fit the plugs and have a go at starting the engine.
Then go for a Drive with a big Grin !!!
Thanks dickie, I've got assembly lube so I'll lube up all of the above. When you say lube the buckets, is that just the surface that comes in contact with the cam lobe? |
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Post by dickie on May 30, 2020 17:22:40 GMT
Hi,
You need to lube up all the moving surfaces without exception !!!!
Pull the buckets out and lube the end of the valve and the bore that the bucket sits in as well as where the cam rides even a bit of lube under the shims.
I hope the valve stems were lubricated before installation.
If you start the engine with any dry contact surfaces damage will be very rapid.
I hope you do not have to take too much apart to lube it all up,
Best of luck
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Post by mrwallace on Jun 10, 2020 12:00:50 GMT
Looks good!
Where did you get this done? Just a 30thou a skim in the end?
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 10, 2020 13:29:38 GMT
And just like that, it's back:
Looks good!
Where did you get this done? Just a 30thou a skim in the end?
I went 20 thou skim in the end, straight swapping a BP4W reduces compression from memory. Skim was carried out by DGilmour engineering. This leaves me ok to go forced induction in the future. The valves were re-cut by Ross at West of Scotland Engineering, they recut the valve seats and reset all of the shims accordingly, as well as reassembling the head for me. I'm just going through the process of applying assembly lube as it won't be fitted straight away. Managed to get your hands on one? |
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Post by wannabe on Jun 10, 2020 16:44:13 GMT
If it's any comfort, I put mine back together and drowned it all in new engine oil, then took, er, a few weeks to actually get to the point it started. I'm not sure how much lubrication would still have been present in the top end, but I sort of think it's not that dissimilar to starting any engine after it's been standing for a few weeks. It cranked a few times and then caught, and it put up with a couple of hours of trying to keep up with V6 and Snomad the other week  as well as doing seven+ hours in city traffic a little while before that, so they seem pretty resilient as an engine and hopefully any damage from delayed starting was minimal! |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 10, 2020 18:37:28 GMT
I put mine back together and drowned it all in new engine oil, then took, er, a few weeks to actually get to the point it started no, a few weeks? think I had 2 birthdays in that time  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 10, 2020 21:07:01 GMT
Only two birthdays, I think you’re being generous
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 11, 2020 9:50:56 GMT
If it's any comfort, I put mine back together and drowned it all in new engine oil, then took, er, a few weeks to actually get to the point it started. I'm not sure how much lubrication would still have been present in the top end, but I sort of think it's not that dissimilar to starting any engine after it's been standing for a few weeks. It cranked a few times and then caught, and it put up with a couple of hours of trying to keep up with V6 and Snomad the other week as well as doing seven+ hours in city traffic a little while before that, so they seem pretty resilient as an engine and hopefully any damage from delayed starting was minimal! There's hope yet then! The assembly lube is as thick as syrup, I don't think it's going to drain into the head before startup, I've been pretty generous with it. It won't be going in for a few weeks/months yet. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 11, 2020 15:12:30 GMT
When I used to build/rebuild engines in the past, I used to have a hand cranked oil pump, connect it up to the engine and prime the system before first crank, hand turned the crankshaft whilst priming so all oil galleries were filled.
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as well as doing seven+ hours in city traffic a little while before that, so they seem pretty resilient as an engine and hopefully any damage from delayed starting was minimal!
le sigh