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Post by binner on Aug 16, 2019 14:22:00 GMT
I am looking to buy a mk2.5 1.8 and sell my mk1. I compete in the Bristol motor club Vincenzo and sons champ and I think I am getting as much out of my mk1 as I can. and feel a mk2.5 would give me a bit of leeway.
It is a 1994 Vpec II 1.8. I think the best route for me to go is to set i back to standard and move the dampers/seats/rollbar and harness across to a yet to be purchased mk2.5.
The concern is that the sills on the mk1 need a repair.
So if I spent the £800-£1200 on repairing the rust and set it back to standard (would need to buy shocks, tomsbtone, seats and the silver metal bit behind the seats as mine was cut for the rol bar)
would I get more that that back for the car ?
I have seen some optimistically priced cars knocking about. I guess in it current state set back to standard it fetch £1k, with the repair £2k
or should I just buy the best 2.5 (probably with crusty arches) move the bits across and get what ever I can for the mk1 in standard trim without sill repair
I could type my entire internal cicrular monolgue but that would get a bit tedious
thought , insults (Creative or not) and random thoughts welcome
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Post by scottydugg on Aug 16, 2019 15:15:02 GMT
Is fixing and keeping the mk1 not an option? As with any project, it always costs more than you think it will.
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Post by binner on Aug 20, 2019 12:22:45 GMT
I could however I am not competative at the sprints unless I absolutely nail my lap whereas the guys in the mk2s have a slight torque/power advantage which gives them a bit of scope for error.
So by swapping to the more powerful car I am hoping to be more consistently at the top rather than having to be perfect to be in with a shout
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Post by Zed. on Aug 20, 2019 13:35:22 GMT
Personally I'd repair & continue to compete the mk1, instead of spending on a diferent car couldn't you upgrade yours? my concern is that when you buy a secondhand car you are also buying someone else's problems  Rich. |
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Post by lowender on Aug 20, 2019 15:07:41 GMT
I think the problem is the regs for the championship. There should be a separate class for mk1 as there is for mk3. The first 2 years of the championship, I competed in my standard car for a few events, but was up against modified mk1s and mk2s, some with throttle bodies, some with aftermarket ECUs etc, and 2 litre mk3s. So I spent the winter and lots of dosh upgrading to a Blink stage 1, only to find that the regs changed that January, and no longer permitted aftermarket ECUs. So I haven't been able to enter the last 2 years, even though the mk3s are more powerful.
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Post by dickie on Aug 20, 2019 20:18:21 GMT
Hi Binner,
I understand your predicament, The Mk 2.5 with a six speed box should be a better bet for your events.
More power, higher compression, better stiffening and better suspension and better brakes.
They are cheaper than a good Mk1 too.
At the end of the day its dependant on your local event regs and class structure ( and how competitive you expect to be )
I run in class A3 in the westcountry, hopelesly outpowered but not penalised for class legal mods. ( I just enter for the fun factor not to win )
The best way forward for my events would be a bore reduction or offset ground crank to drop into A2 up to 1800cc I would have to lose about 10 cc per cylinder.
Front Chassis legs are becoming a more commonly repaired part on the MK 2.5s
Like any repair it just needs to be done properly not just a cover plate to hide the rot from the MOT Man.
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Post by lowender on Aug 20, 2019 21:09:50 GMT
Mk 2.5s are a bit heavier than a mk1, if you could lose a few kilos (the car, not you...), it could make the difference. I got mine down to 950 kg with most of the interior intact. I thought the idea of the series was to be able to compete in the car you've got, not to have to get another car in order to be in with a shout.
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Post by binner on Aug 21, 2019 11:52:47 GMT
lowender the reg change did even things up and I have been competative in the car, I won the GWS and set a new class record. Weightloss wide I have got down to 990kg not sure what else I can do. removing the carpet is within the regs though that is probably only a decent meals worth. I think I just need a bit more of an envelope in which to make errors. It could just be me and if I got my head right I could win more often. I think the cost of repairing the rust has made me think about chaging the car , plus a test drive in a mk2.5, it felt quicker off the line. The timing of the regs change was infortunate for you. Buy my mk1 and join in again :-) dickie if you fancy a change and are in the SW then join us , though I think we have "spoken" before and IIRC you may be a bit to SW to make some of the events. details here of teh mx5 challenge are on the Bristol motor club website Zed. I could just be taking on someone else's problems it is always a gamble, though @rickster would then be the quickest mk1. I have already upgraded the dampers, aRBs, droplinks, bucket seat , aircon delete, rollbar, exhaust mani, exhaust mid and backbox. The only things left to do would be 4.7 diff and 15x7 wheels to replace the 15x6.5. .
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Post by Zed. on Aug 21, 2019 13:11:05 GMT
The only things left to do would be 4.7 diff and 15x7 wheels to replace the 15x6.5. hummmmm... I've not read the regs / sr's, how much can you mix&match from mk2/2.5 into a mk1 or is it strictly monitored? Rich. (just built a 4.778:1 for my car) |
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jimb
New Here
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Post by jimb on Aug 21, 2019 15:32:48 GMT
I'm not convinced that there is that much in it, and also I expect the difference varies from a big track like combe, to a small track like Clay Pigeon, and the 'solos. I am sure that weight counts for more than power for solo's.
Also, the leading cars seem to be Mk2's, which are closer to mk1's in weight and power.
Finally, I'd have thought that the aggro involved in getting the car repaired to sell would not be justified by the increased selling price - you might not even get enough extra to cover the cost of repairs
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Post by binner on Aug 22, 2019 7:46:30 GMT
Zed. reg are on the Bristol MC website, the general bluebook rules prevent engine swaps. The wording , last time I checked, was the block had to stay with that model. So if I swap to a mk2.5 engine then as that wasn't fitted to the mk1 it would be against the regs. The cost is prohibitive as well. jimb yo may be right , I am looing at mk2 and m2.5. On the final point the only aggro repair is the rust , the rest is trivial, could be done in a day provided I have enough penetrating oil :-)
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Post by Zed. on Aug 22, 2019 9:17:34 GMT
If the cylinder block must stay as original then all 1.8 engines should be interchangeable? If not 1.8 cylinder heads  I’m sure there’s plenty of ‘clever ‘ interpretations going on  I’ll have a read later..... Rich. |
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jimb
New Here
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Post by jimb on Aug 22, 2019 9:57:42 GMT
Yes, it was the rust I was referring to!
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Post by Rickster on Aug 23, 2019 8:11:48 GMT
Hi Mate Nearly bought a mot fail 2.5 last week but the rust put me off!! I've been thinking of the same - I believe that any money you spend on a mk1 to sell it you probably won't see back I think I would swap all the good parts into the 2.5 (suspension, seats, roll bar, arb etc) and then stick cheap used bits back on the mk1 to sell it. I have 2 problems with this strategy 1) for the first time I've become emotionally attached to a car!! 2) finding a 2.5, in budget that isn't an iron oxide factory!! My other option is to send my cams off to piper, however I am told that this is not "within the spirit of the rules"!😲 (Sounds more like golf than motorsport😁) Also didn't a mk1 win the GWS with a class record - wonder who that was!!!  😉😂 |
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Post by Whistler on Aug 23, 2019 8:19:02 GMT
My other option is to send my cams off to piper, however I am told that this is not "within the spirit of the rules"! Laws must be adhered to, rules are made to be bent - grind those cams!  |
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😉😂
le sigh