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Post by zoona on Jan 17, 2022 14:57:55 GMT
I used to have a welder in the UK, and it was just a bog standard Clarke MIG thing. It was good, and i learned how to MIG on it and all was well. Then i moved away and couldn't take it with me (so it's still sat in my garage actually - the next visit back I plan to clear it out, so it will be up for grabs). Anyway. I would like to make my own exhaust, and it would be nice to have the option to make brackets and sh it for the car and also for the gargae. I also just want to learn how to TIG and make other stuff. Not sure what... But things like light fittings or things that look pretty. not realy sure. I do want to use aluminium. SO, I am looking at welders and need some advice. I think i have a few options. 1. Buy a mid-range MIG, weld the exhaust and only ever do MIG stuff 2. Buy something that can do both MIG and TIG 3. Buy separate machines (maybe even at differnet tiems) 4. Just buy TIG, and spend way too long making an exhaust... I have been trying to read up, and while I don't need pro grade kit, it does seem that there is an element of 'jack of all trades' for the multi process. I don't like buying cheap prarrie canoe that breaks, or i outgrow quickly. Multiprocess kit seems to be expensive, and it looks like i could get two machines that are more suited to each task for the same/less money. Anybody here have experience of this decision, and/or guidance? |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 17, 2022 15:46:49 GMT
If you need to find a home for your UK based welder, I’d be interested. Did some welding years ago & would like to have a go at doing my own again.
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Post by zoona on Jan 17, 2022 16:52:01 GMT
No idea when that will be... But will let you know
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2022 18:32:52 GMT
I do want to use aluminium. beware of it's amusing melting-point, this just happens to be lower than aluminium oxide so when you melt through the oxide-layer there's a dribble of alloy ready to escape  1. Buy a mid-range MIG, weld the exhaust and only ever do MIG stuff mig is usefull, easy to use - point&pray welding  can do stainless & aluminium but needs expensive shield-gasses whereas mild steel can use cheaper C02. aluminium can (& will) bunch-up in the torch / umbilical so lots of wastage* 2. Buy something that can do both MIG and TIG personally I'd avoid, chances are that the dual-purpose sets run as 'Lift' or 'Scratch' Tig and have few power adjustments available? if they're so good then evryone would have one? a dedicated set will have adjustments, outputs and circuitry suited to its intended purpose. 3. Buy separate machines (maybe even at differnet tiems) best option, can 'grow' the tooling with need  4. Just buy TIG, and spend way too long making an exhaust... more like 4. Just buy TIG, and spend way too long practacing but wondering why anti-social media makes these instagram-weld 'dime-stacking' or 'cup-walking' look easy I have been trying to read up, and while I don't need pro grade kit, it does seem that there is an element of 'jack of all trades' for the multi process. I don't like buying cheap prarrie canoe that breaks, or i outgrow quickly. Multiprocess kit seems to be expensive, and it looks like i could get two machines that are more suited to each task for the same/less money. look on the Migwelding forums? I weld, have done for a few years and am still learning. I have a few welding-sets - mig (Sealey Supermig180 bought ~30 years ago) / tig (ebay cheapo '200a' hf tig ~£200 new?) / MMA (arc) and even a pair of Spoolgun migsets (240v & 440v) not got Oxy-Acetline anymore though. I'm currently looking into an AC/DC Tig to have the flexability for Aliminium but theres a thousand other reasons (£'s) that could buy other things constantly taking my eye  ConUS will have different brands and pricing to UK, if buying a cheap set I'd buy new for warranty, also consider how far consumables are when purchasing as travelling far to refil a gas cylinder would be a nightmare..... Also. buy the best headshield you can afford, pointless having an expensive welder if you cannot see the weld-pool  Rich. probably more but  *unless you have a 'Spoolgun' set. |
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Post by zoona on Jan 17, 2022 21:05:16 GMT
What you said it's what I was thinking...
Particularly your update to point 4.
I think two machines, and a mig first just to get an exhaust in place before it gets tuned.
I have found a decent metal supply place nearby, but needed to look for exhaust parts. I think something like summit racing will be easiest.
Not looked into gas locally yet...
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Post by zoona on Jan 20, 2022 21:57:20 GMT
FWIW I got the eastwood 180 MIG with spool gun. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mig-welder-180-amp-with-spool-gun.htmlI can't justify twice the price for a miller or lincoln (as much as I would like one of them). This one seems to get very good reviews, and I got it with the spool gun as well - so i can have a go at aluminium and then see how much of it I do and possibly fork out for a TIG later on. THis will work on 110v for until I get the right 240 socket put int he garage. I do have 240v... but a different socket (up to 15 amps) THe sockets here are bloody ridiculous. Need to find somewhere to buy gas now. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 23, 2022 21:14:57 GMT
keeping the thread alive, I've just hit the button on an R-tech AC/DC 210A DIGITAL - TIG 210EXT as I've been constantly drawn to it's functions etc. & theres a 10% discount on their website  also they have some reduced price 'shop-soiled' sets so more savings  www.r-techwelding.co.uk/tig-welder-ac-dc-210a-digital-tig-210ext-shop-soilednow to source a cylinder of Argon, dig up my box of tungstens / gas lens's then get some Anti-wobble pills - also remember how to setup & use a tig  gas is going to cost, will cut back on the other toys  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 23, 2022 22:28:33 GMT
Could have done with anti wobble pills when soldering a USB cable today…
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Post by Zed. on Jan 25, 2022 20:39:40 GMT
 this landed today, I'll try to source gas tomorrow then can play Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Jan 26, 2022 19:20:05 GMT
Hi Rich, Weld done on the Tig set !! I have an Argon bottle that is the biggest one that will fit in the Mx Boot. Its a buy the bottle and gas jobby then take it back for an exchange refill. It cost the same as 6 mini bottles when I bought it, I have only Mig welded with it so far. I will be borrowing the work Mini Tig set soon to tack up the exhaust adaptors to link the Simpsom Manifold into the M2 system.
The agent for these is about 1 1/4 miles from work by road or follow the deer track through the scrub its about 200 feet.
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Post by zoona on Jan 26, 2022 20:32:56 GMT
I've got some gas too, and realised that it is a long time snce I have done any welding.
I think the main problem is not being able to see properly. all a bit dark. I missed my mark by some way. Have to fiddle with the mask settings.
I only had 20 mins for a quick blast, so will go back to it later.
I got some gas, but they don;t seem to do the bottle exchange thing here, so i had to buy them. Unless I had just been done of course... BUt that was quite pricey.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 26, 2022 21:22:32 GMT
I think the main problem is not being able to see properly. all a bit dark. I missed my mark by some way. Have to fiddle with the mask settings. being able to see the weld-pool is important, eyesight is taken for granted but theres 'cheeter-lenses' available to fit inside headshields if you have reading glasses (I do  ), also headshield quality is important as you do get what you pay for  I always advise buying the best headshield you can afford - even if it's secondhand.... like cheap tyres on a turbo car - not great  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 26, 2022 22:28:47 GMT
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Post by zoona on Jan 26, 2022 23:18:53 GMT
I think the main problem is not being able to see properly. all a bit dark. I missed my mark by some way. Have to fiddle with the mask settings. being able to see the weld-pool is important, eyesight is taken for granted but theres 'cheeter-lenses' available to fit inside headshields if you have reading glasses (I do  ), also headshield quality is important as you do get what you pay for  I always advise buying the best headshield you can afford - even if it's secondhand.... like cheap tyres on a turbo car - not great Rich. Yeah, I litteraly got 10 mins after i set it all up to play. I need to go back and fiddle with things. I bought a decnet one at the cheaper end (i.e. not a $500 dollar one, but not a $29.99 one either...) While the result is better than my attempt this morning. Umm... no thanks. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 27, 2022 15:59:42 GMT
Not easy to clamp baulks of timber to one’s sills.
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can do stainless & aluminium but needs expensive shield-gasses whereas mild steel can use cheaper C02. aluminium can (& will) bunch-up in the torch / umbilical so lots of wastage*
), also headshield quality is important as you do get what you pay for 
), also headshield quality is important as you do get what you pay for 
le sigh