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Post by wannabe on Oct 29, 2020 2:33:13 GMT
Swapped the winter wheels/tyres on today. The NS-2Rs were doing admirably given they are, er, 'close' to the wear markers and they were impressive if easing into corners instaed of grabbing 90 degrees of lock suddenly, but they were giving me a touch of that over-rotation/wheelspin feeling under throttle out of damp/wet junctions and I didn't have a great deal of confidence about stopping quickly or catching the back end if it did step out... lol Now on 'normal' (non-track-biased) tyres without a square profile, it feels so much more progressive on turn-in! They are also feeling very good in the wet, like they are biting through to the surface, so may it continue if/when it snows! After a gruelling 12 Car rally on Friday (well, gruelling for the car, we were surfing along the grass/mud in the middle of some of the lanes, and scraping up rocks on others), I really need to get some more ride height out of my HSD coilovers. I asked a question in the Mk1 MX5 group on Facebook and they reckon there must be something wrong with them, so I need to check them out properly. In the meantime I am getting on with a belt and water pump swap. I took off the radiator/fans, and I've taken off the alternator and PAS belts, front covers and cam cover so far. All looking OK in there. Got new plugs and leads, new water pump and new belts to fit next. Are you going to do that trick with the cambelt, where you cut the old one in half along its length while in place, remove the front half of it, then replace it with the whole new belt by sliding it hslf/full on ?
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Post by Zed. on Oct 29, 2020 23:53:32 GMT
spent more money Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 31, 2020 23:01:25 GMT
bought a mk1 1.8 open diff assy on ebay for £21.....
more to go in my spares stash....
Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 1, 2020 11:55:46 GMT
bought a mk1 1.8 open diff assy on ebay for £21..... more to go in my spares stash.... Rich. Flipping eck' thats some going, I'm sure in the near future I'll need one of these. The ol' vlsd is starting to sound very noisy off throttle and clunking in reverse. Hmm
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Post by Zed. on Nov 1, 2020 12:22:07 GMT
bought a mk1 1.8 open diff assy on ebay for £21..... more to go in my spares stash.... Rich. Flipping eck' thats some going, I'm sure in the near future I'll need one of these. The ol' vlsd is starting to sound very noisy off throttle and clunking in reverse. Hmm lastyear I 'won' a diff/hubs & shafts for 99p, a gearbox (mk2 5speed) & prop for 99p and a mk2 pas rack for 99p... went & collected them also! ebay at it's finest / worst depending on point of view although I did gave the seller a little more than the £2.97 Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 1, 2020 12:32:52 GMT
That is some crazy ebaying, no wonder the only ones I see are in the 100s, your buying the rest of them haha Are you fussed about final drive at all, I was wondering if its worth hunting for a 4.44 from one of the 4x4 Mazdas which are interchangeable...
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Post by Zed. on Nov 1, 2020 13:07:38 GMT
Are you fussed about final drive at all, I was wondering if its worth hunting for a 4.44 from one of the 4x4 Mazdas which are interchangeable... lower fd is a personal preference... depends on what you use the car for & what power you have available, low ratio & 300hp = lots of wheelspin bordering on uncontrollable (but looks good!) as to finding a compatable ratio then good luck, the 4.6 & 4.8:1 sportage front diffs are getting rare now & the correct 7" b200 diffs are all things of legend now! Rich. (with a 4.778:1 sportage ratio...)
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Post by dickie on Nov 1, 2020 14:37:12 GMT
I took the driver seat out of the Mongrel to gain enough room to partially pull the door lining off so that I could get at the lock mechanism to open the door and change the little spring which broke and left me unable to open the drivers door, I took the glass out and the window guide to give me enough room and visibility to get at it. all I have to do now is to re assemble it and make sure it all works as it should.
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Post by dickie on Nov 1, 2020 19:43:33 GMT
Hi folks, The Mongrels drivers door is now back together and locking and opening again. I am not covered in Black Goo, I sprayed the inside of the door with Dinitrol during the rebuild so I got that on my hands instead.
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Post by batou on Nov 1, 2020 20:11:55 GMT
Hi folks, The Mongrels drivers door is now back together and locking and opening again. I am not covered in Black Goo, I sprayed the inside of the door with Dinitrol during the rebuild so I got that on my hands instead. Ahh that reminds me, I need to order some shin-etsu and sort the slow windows and rubbers. I hate that black goo on the door card "shower curtain"
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Post by dadbif on Nov 1, 2020 22:25:13 GMT
A good clean out of the rubber channels and some silicone grease will do the job. Did mine 4 years ago
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 2, 2020 11:24:43 GMT
After a gruelling 12 Car rally on Friday (well, gruelling for the car, we were surfing along the grass/mud in the middle of some of the lanes, and scraping up rocks on others), I really need to get some more ride height out of my HSD coilovers. I asked a question in the Mk1 MX5 group on Facebook and they reckon there must be something wrong with them, so I need to check them out properly. In the meantime I am getting on with a belt and water pump swap. I took off the radiator/fans, and I've taken off the alternator and PAS belts, front covers and cam cover so far. All looking OK in there. Got new plugs and leads, new water pump and new belts to fit next. Are you going to do that trick with the cambelt, where you cut the old one in half along its length while in place, remove the front half of it, then replace it with the whole new belt by sliding it hslf/full on ? Too late, I already took the old one off and then put the new one on. A bit of a pain but not terrible. Also swapped most of the hoses over to the Stoney Racing set. The 90 degree corner on the air intake crossover thing was the worst! A couple more to do.
Turns out I bought the wrong alternator belt (mine has a v-belt not a flat/ribbed one), so went and got a new one locally, along with a replacement thermostat. It was working but thought I might as well swap it while everything's in bits. I was going to clean up and maybe paint the cam cover but since I couldn't fit the alternator belt I used the time to put the cam cover back on in its dirty condition instead. I decided not to worry about the AC system this time.
Next to fit both the accessory belts, new plugs and wires, radiator back on, plumb it in and fire it up! Once I'm happy it's running normally I'm going to have a go at the 14 degree timing mod, if it isn't already set there.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 4, 2020 3:13:40 GMT
Today I drove it on winter tyres in condtions actually approaching winter for the first time - there was a thick film of frost already formed on the road surface o n the way home! Tyres were... interesting. In my mind they were going to be super-sticky and cut through to make it feel like the dry in summer. In reality they felt a bit squirmy, grip levels were pretty high but limits approached fairly easily, and it didn't feel too scary when things were starting to get slidey around the loimits. I know they are at least two years old, maybe 4? so could be going a touch harder. I wasn't going that fast, though - while I feel relatively confident about coping with the back stepping out under power from a standstill or exiting a slow speed corner, I feel pretty terrified of the back starting to come round at even 30mph... lol I need to get on a handling/drifting day!
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Post by batou on Nov 4, 2020 10:43:53 GMT
Dropped it off for full geo alignment and full steam clean underneath/engine/gearbox this morning It was 1°C outside didn't feel any lack of grip on the Dunlop SP's chucking round a roundabout at good speed even in its current wonky state lol... wannabe , I've found if they are full on winter tyres then you will have a lot less grip in dry cold conditions. The only time I've had scary understeer on the Subaru is when I've gone out the day after the snow has cleared and its dry and I've still got the Yoko Ice Guards on, uncontrollable understeer at sub 40mph and very poor grip overall. They are not designed to be pushed on dry roads as the large treadblocks are designed to move around to generate heat to help on ice and snow, so they lose grip very, very quickly. You would be much better off on all seasons in the UK unless you want to go out and enjoy the snow and icy weather (which is why I have the Ice guards). Winter tyres will never feel super sticky, nor will all seasons but they will give you more confidence and let you enjoy the dry weather. Heck, I used to go out in sub 4°C in the Mini on Yoko AD08's and as long as it was dry and you got heat in them they were still amazing.
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Post by swordspork on Nov 4, 2020 12:46:52 GMT
Who's doing the Steam clean Of the underneath?
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