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Post by batou on Nov 4, 2020 14:00:05 GMT
Who's doing the Steam clean Of the underneath? Same guys who are doing the geo alignment, they do lots of high end body work, classic cars etc as well as specialising in MX5 body/rust repairs (ie. proper job repairs, not just a weld it up job). Finishline UK in Graveley. I gave him some rough numbers I came up with from my internet alignment training and they said they looked okay... Front Camber -1.8° to 2.0° Front Toe (Total) 0.06° / 1.0 mm Caster +3.5° to 4.5° Rear Camber -1.5° to -1.8° Rear Toe (Total) 0.12° / 2.2mm We'll see what it comes back with or if they feel my numbers need tweaking but I think that will suit my driving.
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Post by swordspork on Nov 4, 2020 14:37:42 GMT
Ah cool, not too far out of my way - perhaps I will go after the winter - I should really re-do the undersealing soon.
I touched up some rust spots near the sill kick plates a couple of weeks ago - was expecting to sand it back to find a hole - was pleasantly surprised to find it was just a patch of surface rust from where the plate was rubbing the paint. I am sure there is more lurking elsewhere.
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Post by batou on Nov 4, 2020 15:04:27 GMT
Ah cool, not too far out of my way - perhaps I will go after the winter - I should really re-do the undersealing soon. I touched up some rust spots near the sill kick plates a couple of weeks ago - was expecting to sand it back to find a hole - was pleasantly surprised to find it was just a patch of surface rust from where the plate was rubbing the paint. I am sure there is more lurking elsewhere. They do undersealing too, I'm trying to find an oil leak at the moment its not losing a single drop from the engine at all but there is quite a bit from old leaks and suspect from the bell housing. That and a lot of surface rust stuck to old underseal so just want to see if there are any attention spots I need to focus on (it had new rear quarters/wings and sills last year at Deepcar). That is a nice suprise, I had the door weatherstrips off the other week and the passenger side one was rusted to fek, thankfully it was the metal inside the rubber strip and not the door so I know the feeling
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Post by Zed. on Nov 4, 2020 20:17:27 GMT
Bought another oblong headlight (so now I've a pair) so projekt cheapo lowpro headlights are go Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 4, 2020 23:06:50 GMT
Dropped it off for full geo alignment and full steam clean underneath/engine/gearbox this morning It was 1°C outside didn't feel any lack of grip on the Dunlop SP's chucking round a roundabout at good speed even in its current wonky state lol... wannabe , I've found if they are full on winter tyres then you will have a lot less grip in dry cold conditions. The only time I've had scary understeer on the Subaru is when I've gone out the day after the snow has cleared and its dry and I've still got the Yoko Ice Guards on, uncontrollable understeer at sub 40mph and very poor grip overall. They are not designed to be pushed on dry roads as the large treadblocks are designed to move around to generate heat to help on ice and snow, so they lose grip very, very quickly. You would be much better off on all seasons in the UK unless you want to go out and enjoy the snow and icy weather (which is why I have the Ice guards). Winter tyres will never feel super sticky, nor will all seasons but they will give you more confidence and let you enjoy the dry weather. Heck, I used to go out in sub 4°C in the Mini on Yoko AD08's and as long as it was dry and you got heat in them they were still amazing. I only went for quite a short drive really and I think the tyres were getting a bit better by the end, so perhaps they were getting some heat into them! The NS-2Rs were getting 'interesting' as the weather got worse - still surprisingly good if you were smooth, but not so good on those sudden input moments! I love driving in the rain and slippery conditions - I like that 'balancing on the edge' feeling - so I will be going out in the 5 with the roof down if it snows Well, once I've warmed it up enough that the roof rubbers let me put the roof down... lol Is there anything we can use on the roof rubbers to help them be pliant?
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Post by wannabe on Nov 4, 2020 23:07:29 GMT
Oh, I forgot - I also realised that I have a lovely sloshing sound in my sills LOL That's another job for the weekend / lockdown / when it's not freezing outside...
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Post by batou on Nov 5, 2020 7:18:14 GMT
I only went for quite a short drive really and I think the tyres were getting a bit better by the end, so perhaps they were getting some heat into them! The NS-2Rs were getting 'interesting' as the weather got worse - still surprisingly good if you were smooth, but not so good on those sudden input moments! I love driving in the rain and slippery conditions - I like that 'balancing on the edge' feeling - so I will be going out in the 5 with the roof down if it snows Well, once I've warmed it up enough that the roof rubbers let me put the roof down... lol The issue with full on winter in the dry is because of the tread movement they overheat very quickly when pushed and lose grip, thats why they felt squirmy and the limit of grip approached quickly. If they came back to you, its possible that after you scared yourself sliding around and possibly backed off for a bit, they may have settled and the tyres were back in the window where they work. A bit like when you first go Karting and push too hard, overheat the tyres, and then some how set a faster lap straight after when your letting them cool With the NS2's, the semi's have a very quick drop off in grip, but the grip level is very high so yeah, once you have a sudden moment you better be on it especially in unfavourable weather. Heres an example of Yoko AD048s losing temp on a wet track due to a red flag, pretty scary in a short mid engined car with no PAS... luckily I was on it and was donning the right brown trousers that day Again, if your tyres look anything like what I have (pictured below) you only want to be using them when there is snow an ice on the ground which is usually 1 or 2 days on our island. These spare wheels/tyres came with the car and I've used them once in the last two years. スバル フォレスター Winter Prep by batousan, on Flickr Is there anything we can use on the roof rubbers to help them be pliant? Honda shin etsu grease, tegiwaimports sell it for the best price at the moment I think (its not cheap but will go a long way). Use it on the window runners too to help with the slow window issue.
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 5, 2020 11:21:49 GMT
Bought one of those Laser Dash "KG Works Style" speedo trim plates, in the process of trying to fit with some Freaky Parts gauge rings to a spare cluster I have. Hopefully getting the car back at the weekend after almost 6 weeks!!!!!!
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Post by Zed. on Nov 5, 2020 19:58:00 GMT
Damn ebay again.... bid on & won a pair of adjustable cam pulleys look like Fidanza items but not sure... will find out more when they land Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 6, 2020 3:42:42 GMT
I only went for quite a short drive really and I think the tyres were getting a bit better by the end, so perhaps they were getting some heat into them! The NS-2Rs were getting 'interesting' as the weather got worse - still surprisingly good if you were smooth, but not so good on those sudden input moments! I love driving in the rain and slippery conditions - I like that 'balancing on the edge' feeling - so I will be going out in the 5 with the roof down if it snows Well, once I've warmed it up enough that the roof rubbers let me put the roof down... lol The issue with full on winter in the dry is because of the tread movement they overheat very quickly when pushed and lose grip, thats why they felt squirmy and the limit of grip approached quickly. If they came back to you, its possible that after you scared yourself sliding around and possibly backed off for a bit, they may have settled and the tyres were back in the window where they work. A bit like when you first go Karting and push too hard, overheat the tyres, and then some how set a faster lap straight after when your letting them cool With the NS2's, the semi's have a very quick drop off in grip, but the grip level is very high so yeah, once you have a sudden moment you better be on it especially in unfavourable weather. Heres an example of Yoko AD048s losing temp on a wet track due to a red flag, pretty scary in a short mid engined car with no PAS... luckily I was on it and was donning the right brown trousers that day Again, if your tyres look anything like what I have (pictured below) you only want to be using them when there is snow an ice on the ground which is usually 1 or 2 days on our island. These spare wheels/tyres came with the car and I've used them once in the last two years. スバル フォレスター Winter Prep by batousan, on Flickr Is there anything we can use on the roof rubbers to help them be pliant? Honda shin etsu grease, tegiwaimports sell it for the best price at the moment I think (its not cheap but will go a long way). Use it on the window runners too to help with the slow window issue. My tyres are the Goodyear Gen-1 things, so definitely full winters - you appear to be saying I need to buy another set of wheels and tyres, which will please the missus... lol TBH I'm quite liking the additional movement - lower grip means lower cornering speeds and a more easily accessible 'fun zone', rather than high-speed ultra-grip then instant death when it runs out haha Thanks for the recommendation on the rubber stuff, I will check it out My windows currently take about a minute to fully drop, so anything that helps...
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 6, 2020 10:42:32 GMT
Finished up the cam belt job. Broke the top off the thermostat/fan switch so will need a new one of them! Apart from that it all seems good. Will take it for a spin and check there are no leaks... Very satisfied to have done it myself, the only regrets are that the blue of the hoses and the blue of the spark plug wires doesn't match, and that I didn't get around to cleaning up the cam cover while it was off, but hey ho.
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Post by FFS Corders on Nov 6, 2020 13:03:45 GMT
That connector loves breaking!
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 9, 2020 14:16:52 GMT
Genuine inlet valve stem seals, why are they out of stock or double the price of the exhaust seals? Ouch!
Where else could I get them from?
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Post by wannabe on Nov 9, 2020 16:36:33 GMT
My list of places to look for things, lol:
Autolink MX5Parts Suffolk Mazda MX5City MX5Restorer MX5Heaven steelcitymx5 (eBay) Mazda WorkPlayMX5 Peak Autos
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Post by dadbif on Nov 9, 2020 17:15:12 GMT
Daily in for new clutch (warranty) got the Mazda out, pissed down!!!
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