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Post by Zed. on Nov 9, 2020 21:00:30 GMT
120 mile roadtrip to collect an ebay £21 diff... won the auction over a week ago but due to lockdown couldn't travel untill today. but was worth the wait  Rich. |
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Post by batou on Nov 9, 2020 21:02:34 GMT
120 mile roadtrip to collect an ebay £21 diff... won the auction over a week ago but due to lockdown couldn't travel untill today. but was worth the wait Rich. I'll give you £25 for it  |
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gbuk
Chats A Bit
Posts: 130 
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Post by gbuk on Nov 11, 2020 18:44:14 GMT
Took it to the Jetwash early this morning before using it today as it has sat dirty since my Finmere muddy puddle outing a month ago. Unfortunately the front offside brake had siezed on generating a lot of heat and some nasty smells. Bloody Jetwash didn't open until 08:00 so I had to limp it back home dirty and switch back to the daily.  Had a full brake service last year including fitting braided lines along with new discs and pads, perhaps it's just sulking for being overlooked and underused. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 12, 2020 11:18:54 GMT
Bought some Dinitrol RC90 and 1000 Clear Cavity Wax to protect my sills (once I get it back). Plan is to get some Por15 underseal for the underside, I had used Waxoyl on the rear previously but I'll go a bit more in-depth this time.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 12, 2020 21:58:21 GMT
Bought some Dinitrol RC90 and 1000 Clear Cavity Wax to protect my sills (once I get it back). Plan is to get some Por15 underseal for the underside, I had used Waxoyl on the rear previously but I'll go a bit more in-depth this time. I was thinking about this - does the metal being treated have to be bone dry beforehand? If so, I'm not sure how that's going to be possible when I currently have a small lake sloshing back and forth in my sills... lol |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 12, 2020 22:28:52 GMT
Open up your sill drain holes...
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 13, 2020 10:08:56 GMT
Yeah I'd get them emptied out asap, I'd imagine as dry as possible but I've not read the information on the can yet.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 13, 2020 10:53:54 GMT
but I've not read the information on the can yet. it's in the 'Bloke' job-description..... open & use in the first method that happens for good or whatever... Rich. |
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 18, 2020 9:55:07 GMT
I finished the last couple of bits of my belt and hose change job last night. I thought it was finished last week, but was having a lot of leakage of coolant from somewhere around the water pump/thermostat, so I took the aux belts and front covers off, tightened everything up a bit and put it all back together. Then I tightened one of the water pump pulley bolts too much and the head sheared off  So last night I took the alternator belt off again, took the pulley off, wangled the remains of the bolt out of the water pump and put it back together again with a replacement bolt. What an rear canoe (me and the job!). Took the car out for a little spin and it's running nicely, but seems to have a bit of hesitation/sluggishness just at start of the throttle pedal travel. I hadn't driven the car for a month but I don't think it's just my memory of how it responded before. Any suggestions on how to liven up the throttle response at low opening? Don't think I changed/knocked anything while doing the other job but it's quite possible! |
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Post by howardb66 on Nov 18, 2020 11:47:16 GMT
MOT passed, no advisories.  |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 18, 2020 16:23:30 GMT
Drove straight from collecting it to the garage....up on jackstands and the heads off already. Also SORN'd it for only the second time.
NOBODY buy supertech valve stem seals, waste of time!
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Post by atlex on Nov 18, 2020 20:13:50 GMT
Drove straight from collecting it to the garage....up on jackstands and the heads off already. Also SORN'd it for only the second time. NOBODY buy supertech valve stem seals, waste of time! re: supertech valve stem seals, I was reading about those last night (mine are in need of replacement) and they are smeared for being bad on most forums. sorry |
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 20, 2020 9:18:37 GMT
Took the car out for a little spin and it's running nicely, but seems to have a bit of hesitation/sluggishness just at start of the throttle pedal travel. I hadn't driven the car for a month but I don't think it's just my memory of how it responded before. Any suggestions on how to liven up the throttle response at low opening? Don't think I changed/knocked anything while doing the other job but it's quite possible! Well last night I thought I'd give the 14 degree mod a try, so I took the car out for a run round the block to warm up, and it was still sluggish. Bridged the diagnostics thing and plugged in the timing light, and couldn't find the timing mark anywhere! Trying to think what I could have cocked up, the crank pulley can only go on in one place, and the timing belt was on OK. It took a while to find a good angle to point the timing light and to look through another gap under the crossover tube, but when I eventually found the timing mark, it was way beyond the 0/TDC line on the little marker gauge thing! It was retarded, and so am I.
Anyway, I marked a line on the cam angle sensor, freed it up to rotate, and gave it a twist, setting it to 12-14 degrees (hard to be very precise), and tightened it up again. Went out for another run round the block and my little beauty was back on form 
I don't quite know how the timing could have gone so wrong from doing the cam belt job, as I didn't touch the CAS doing it and it was well tight enough not to move on its own. Anyway, happy to have things running nicely again.
Question though, what does bridging the diagnostics port actually do? I accidentally left it bridged when I took the car out and it didn't seem to make any difference to the way it ran.
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Post by wannabe on Nov 20, 2020 12:59:13 GMT
Took the car out for a little spin and it's running nicely, but seems to have a bit of hesitation/sluggishness just at start of the throttle pedal travel. I hadn't driven the car for a month but I don't think it's just my memory of how it responded before. Any suggestions on how to liven up the throttle response at low opening? Don't think I changed/knocked anything while doing the other job but it's quite possible! Well last night I thought I'd give the 14 degree mod a try, so I took the car out for a run round the block to warm up, and it was still sluggish. Bridged the diagnostics thing and plugged in the timing light, and couldn't find the timing mark anywhere! Trying to think what I could have cocked up, the crank pulley can only go on in one place, and the timing belt was on OK. It took a while to find a good angle to point the timing light and to look through another gap under the crossover tube, but when I eventually found the timing mark, it was way beyond the 0/TDC line on the little marker gauge thing! It was retarded, and so am I. Anyway, I marked a line on the cam angle sensor, freed it up to rotate, and gave it a twist, setting it to 12-14 degrees (hard to be very precise), and tightened it up again. Went out for another run round the block and my little beauty was back on form I don't quite know how the timing could have gone so wrong from doing the cam belt job, as I didn't touch the CAS doing it and it was well tight enough not to move on its own. Anyway, happy to have things running nicely again. Question though, what does bridging the diagnostics port actually do? I accidentally left it bridged when I took the car out and it didn't seem to make any difference to the way it ran.
I think bridging the diagnostics thing means the ECU doesn't adjust the fuel while you adjust the timing - so it means you're not just moving the operating parameters up and down a defined range for the fuelling, but actually moving the operating parameters into a different fuelling band. I think?? If that makes any sense whatsoever???  |
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Post by batou on Nov 21, 2020 19:21:38 GMT
Moved it...  ... as I've been neglecting the workhorse, so chucked in some millers finest to see it through 140,000kms and beyond...  Zed. this is why you want a remote oil filter |
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