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Post by scottydugg on Jan 4, 2023 14:51:29 GMT
it comes down to QA - Stewart as OK 5 years ago but the quality of stuff he's produced has just gone down, with poor fitment etc. I can provide two direct personal examples in this regard if you really want them. And yes one involved brakes. Ah I see, that's a shame then. No need for examples this time thanks. I think I've managed to secure the Subaru 4 pots, so will put up a post with information when/if they arrive. I think I'll go the larger sport brakes on the rear, hopefully won't need a proportioning valve. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 4, 2023 16:18:34 GMT
Very heavy calipers / discs with very expensive pads...... also might need specific wheel / spacer combo's  for 15" wheels can use mk4 / ND Mx5 280mm discs and I've read that their 4 piston calipers also fit mk1 & 2. otherwise, Wilwood dynalite calipers and Supermiata's 'Boxmount' brackets  Rich. |
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 4, 2023 17:09:09 GMT
I think I've managed to secure the Subaru 4 pots, so will put up a post with information when/if they arrive. I think I'll go the larger sport brakes on the rear, hopefully won't need a proportioning valve. I've got mk2.5 Sport brakes on both ends of my car, works really well and they can be pretty cheap if you have good luck finding a set. With Sport calipers on the front and standard on the rear, I used to get loads of front lockups (no ABS), so I tried adding a bias valve, but it didn't really make any difference, so I put Sport calipers on the rear as well. Haven't had a front lockup since. |
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Post by atlex on Jan 4, 2023 21:59:45 GMT
I think I've managed to secure the Subaru 4 pots, so will put up a post with information when/if they arrive. I think I'll go the larger sport brakes on the rear, hopefully won't need a proportioning valve. I've got mk2.5 Sport brakes on both ends of my car, works really well and they can be pretty cheap if you have good luck finding a set. With Sport calipers on the front and standard on the rear, I used to get loads of front lockups (no ABS), so I tried adding a bias valve, but it didn't really make any difference, so I put Sport calipers on the rear as well. Haven't had a front lockup since. Nod here. I've got the same front and rear without a bias valve.. no trouble. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 5, 2023 10:58:59 GMT
I'm too far down the road with purchasing these so will see how it goes, but shouldn't be too hard to shift on if need be. Appreciate the info guys.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 6, 2023 11:40:46 GMT
Was back out in the garage last night, trying again to work out what's going on with the clutch. I put the alignment tool back into the friction plate and it didn't go in very far, so I took the clutch off again. The splines of the friction plate were a bit chewed up, presumably from my attempts to mate the gearbox to the engine, so I put a different friction disk in and did it all up again. New clutch fork and dust cover coming from MX5parts and I'm going to give it one more try before admitting defeat and towing it to a workshop.
Anyone have any tips on how to be sure the shaft/splines have gone in properly before tightening things up? I've rechecked the clutch alignment after doing up the pressure plate and it seems good, but when it comes to wrestling the gearbox on it seems a bit random as to whether the splines will go in or not.
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 6, 2023 12:01:15 GMT
Make sure the gearbox is out of gear when inserting, raise the front of the engine with a jack to help it align better. I Balance the box on a jack and raised it up flat and then slid forward, wasn't too much waggling required to get it to seat properly. Hopefully this is the end of your troubles!
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Post by dadbif on Jan 6, 2023 21:42:04 GMT
I used to leave the box in gear, then with the prop inserted I could turn the prop to get the splines to rotate and line up with the clutch plate.
Always make sure the bell housing to engine gap is even all around, then it should go straight in.
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Post by wannabe on Jan 9, 2023 16:11:21 GMT
Put some oil in it.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 10, 2023 9:37:43 GMT
I put the new clutch fork in, and the new boot, seemed a lot more secure and the release bearing moved where it should do. So I took my time and got the gearbox back on, it went quite smoothly and I checked that the splines were in OK by putting it in gear, loosely fitting the propshaft and turning the engine a bit. Seems to have more resistance and better pedal feel. Won't know if it actually works until I've put some other stuff back on (at least the exhaust so I can start the engine), and if it doesn't, I'm going to give up and take it somewhere.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 12, 2023 9:25:57 GMT
I got a load more done last night - finished tightening up all the bellhousing bolts and the starter motor, put the prop shaft back on and the exhaust manifold. I keep meaning to loosen up the bolts joining the manifold to the downpipe while the exhaust is off, as it's a beeatch to get to them when it's all fitted....but I hadn't so it went back in as before. At the moment I have to take off the whole manifold and disconnect it at the mid-pipe end so it all comes out in a 5 ft long tree trunk.
Need to refill with gearbox oil and then I can start it up and see if it goes into gear...
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 12, 2023 9:55:20 GMT
Can you try it in gear without putting oil in? Should work now if all the mechanicals are in place, spin the crank with a socket, assuming all 4 wheels are up in the air that is.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 12, 2023 11:36:51 GMT
Can you try it in gear without putting oil in? Should work now if all the mechanicals are in place, spin the crank with a socket, assuming all 4 wheels are up in the air that is. Yeah, the connection between engine and gearbox/wheels is fine, I checked that when I was putting the gearbox back on. What I can't test without the engine running is whether the clutch will disengage enough to change gear (or put it in gear from neutral). |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 14, 2023 13:06:25 GMT
Can you try it in gear without putting oil in? Should work now if all the mechanicals are in place, spin the crank with a socket, assuming all 4 wheels are up in the air that is. Yeah, the connection between engine and gearbox/wheels is fine, I checked that when I was putting the gearbox back on. What I can't test without the engine running is whether the clutch will disengage enough to change gear (or put it in gear from neutral). Fingers crossed this works for you š¤š» |
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 17, 2023 16:36:43 GMT
Brake fluid, what's worth getting? just a generic dot5.1? Also, anyone do anything other than manual bleed with someone pumping the brakes? I can never seem to get it to bleed properly doing it that way, working near to far, just wondering if there's a better method.
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le sigh