pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157 
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Post by pewe on May 16, 2016 10:24:07 GMT
Passed it's MOT - now I can turn the slow idle back down from 1250 to a more usual 950  BTW Dweenimus ^^ have you checked for rust inside the boot lid underneath the centre stoplight? Just noticed on mine it's rusting on the seam quite badly. Another summer rust-proofing job - now where did I put that Dinitrol kit??? Cheers, Pewe. |
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Post by Dweenimus on May 16, 2016 10:51:11 GMT
Passed it's MOT - now I can turn the slow idle back down from 1250 to a more usual 950 BTW Dweenimus ^^ have you checked for rust inside the boot lid underneath the centre stoplight? Just noticed on mine it's rusting on the seam quite badly. Another summer rust-proofing job - now where did I put that Dinitrol kit??? Cheers, Pewe. Whee! I passed too! Well.. Apart from a prarrie canoety led sidelight bulb, that was working yesterday, deciding to stop working, and the spare we swapped over didnt work either! Cost a whole £2 to pass! I haven't looked at my bootlid for rust nopes. I have got a lovely patch of rust behind my numberplate panel though  |
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on May 16, 2016 11:07:07 GMT
Passed it's MOT - now I can turn the slow idle back down from 1250 to a more usual 950 BTW Dweenimus ^^ have you checked for rust inside the boot lid underneath the centre stoplight? Just noticed on mine it's rusting on the seam quite badly. Another summer rust-proofing job - now where did I put that Dinitrol kit??? Cheers, Pewe. Whee! I passed too! Well.. Apart from a prarrie canoety led sidelight bulb, that was working yesterday, deciding to stop working, and the spare we swapped over didnt work either! Cost a whole £2 to pass! I haven't looked at my bootlid for rust nopes. I have got a lovely patch of rust behind my numberplate panel though Thanks a bunch buddy, now I'm thinking I'll have to take the fricking number plate off to check that! I've been ignoring a spreading patch of bubbling around the swage line just behind the driver's door on the wheel-arch. Tough call - do I sort the rust out first or fit the intercooler, new injectors and re-map second or vice versa? Cost me a bit more on MOT. Knew the handbrake adjustment was imminent but put her in anyway. Garage called and said it needed adjusting to pass - was I collecting it to DIY or should they do it? Decided on the latter and cost me £35 for being lazy! Cheers, Pewe. |
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Post by wannabe on May 16, 2016 15:05:31 GMT
Just out of interest, have you got the afterburner rear panel to fully seal and be waterproof? I understand they're not a perfect OEM fit so need work! Yeah, i cut up some rubble bag to the shape of the standard rear light seals. Then sealed them with sticky stuff to the inside of the boot, with a grommet cut out for the wires to feed through. All been fine! Good stuff - noted for future reference!  |
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Post by wannabe on May 16, 2016 15:19:01 GMT
Oh, and I washed mine yesterday, for the first time since buying it last year  I don't know where this year has gone, I really don't, but I made sure I cleaned the lip of the arches properly and went along the sills! All seems good, fortunately, but I do want to get it undersealed at some point. The main problem I noticed with washing it is that I literally have a layer of paint coming off on the wash mitt  It's like someone's just blown over the top of the original paint (which looks to be a deeper red) but really shoddily, so now I have a respray to think about at some point...  Great. It does at least look shiny from a distance, but it all falls apart when you get up close lol |
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Post by boringgit on May 16, 2016 19:19:06 GMT
Just got myself filthy dirty cleaning up the undertray and engine.
I've developed a rather annoying oil leak. I'm hoping it's the rocker box gasket, as it seems to have developed (or at least) got worse since I sorted my timing which was out, out. Loosened and retightened the bolts back up and will replace it soon, as I found a spare one the other day at my parents house!
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Post by FFS Corders on May 16, 2016 19:32:48 GMT
just ordered a slave cylinder for Bambi...by the end of the week i shall have learned how to do a clutch slave cylinder change and clutch and brake fluid swap
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Post by steamo on May 16, 2016 19:36:28 GMT
Freed of the slightly sticky brake caliper for the second time in a few days. Piston and sliders are mint so I think it's time to pop the piston out for further investigation :-(
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on May 16, 2016 19:39:31 GMT
FFS ^^ I understand it's easier to replace the rigid pipe with a flexi one between the slave and M/c.
One thing for sure the rigid pipe can be a bitch to line up when refitting as it's pretty inacessible - just a thought..
Steamo ^^ - check the slide pins are moving freely in their rubber mounts. The hole in the steel carrier corrodes constricting the rubbers. Tease the rubbers out gently using brake cleaner and a fine screwdriver BUT be careful, you don't want to puncture the rubber. Once out clean the hole in the carrier using a hand-held twist drill. Also ensure there's no build up of grease and crap inside the rubber and gently scrape off any rusty corrosion from the outside of the rubber.
Again brake cleaner's your friend.
Once it's all nice and clean re-assemble using high temp brake or rubber grease but deffo not Copaslip.
HTH both.
Cheers, Pewe.
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Post by Dweenimus on May 16, 2016 20:01:07 GMT
It does at least look shiny from a distance, but it all falls apart when you get up close lol Great thing about my yellow one, it always looks shiny! Even when I haven't cleaned it in months! In fact even today, the sun shining off it reflecting on road signs! |
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Post by steamo on May 16, 2016 20:26:08 GMT
Steamo ^^ - check the slide pins are moving freely in their rubber mounts. The hole in the steel carrier corrodes constricting the rubbers. Tease the rubbers out gently using brake cleaner and a fine screwdriver BUT be careful, you don't want to puncture the rubber. Once out clean the hole in the carrier using a hand-held twist drill. Also ensure there's no build up of grease and crap inside the rubber and gently scrape off any rusty corrosion from the outside of the rubber. Again brake cleaner's your friend. Once it's all nice and clean re-assemble using high temp brake or rubber grease but deffo not Copaslip. HTH both. Cheers, Pewe. Thanks very much for that! I'm pretty sure it's piston related as the sliders are lovely and free and the piston frees up when worked back and forth. I think I basically need to do what you describe but on the big piston hole, although I'll take your advice and do the sliders while I'm at it. Many thanks again! |
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Post by joeytalent on May 16, 2016 21:59:11 GMT
just ordered a slave cylinder for Bambi...by the end of the week i shall have learned how to do a clutch slave cylinder change and clutch and brake fluid swap Clutch slave is easy, just make sure you have the right sized brake fitting spanner (10mm iirc). Otherwise you'll probably just round the nuts, and no one likes round nuts. |
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Post by atlex on May 16, 2016 22:00:28 GMT
if you're not going to use a brake spanner at least learn how to use an adjustable one properly ^^ there are ways, as discussed on youtube etc. |
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Post by randomfactor on May 16, 2016 23:16:51 GMT
Steamo ^^ - check the slide pins are moving freely in their rubber mounts. The hole in the steel carrier corrodes constricting the rubbers. Tease the rubbers out gently using brake cleaner and a fine screwdriver BUT be careful, you don't want to puncture the rubber. Once out clean the hole in the carrier using a hand-held twist drill. Also ensure there's no build up of grease and crap inside the rubber and gently scrape off any rusty corrosion from the outside of the rubber. Again brake cleaner's your friend. Once it's all nice and clean re-assemble using high temp brake or rubber grease but deffo not Copaslip. HTH both. Cheers, Pewe. Thanks very much for that! I'm pretty sure it's piston related as the sliders are lovely and free and the piston frees up when worked back and forth. I think I basically need to do what you describe but on the big piston hole, although I'll take your advice and do the sliders while I'm at it. Many thanks again! Is it front or rear that's playing up? |
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Post by randomfactor on May 16, 2016 23:17:38 GMT
I reassembled more bits of interior tonight, it's almost looking like a car that might work soon  |
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Great.
