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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2018 14:31:54 GMT
finished isolating the ISV so the car idle is completely controlled by the idle-air bleed screw. this was part of a tidyup under bonnet by removing the rubber hoses from the thermostat housing to the thermo-valve on the inlet manifold (& removing the valve / Blanking the ports in the manifold) and the and to the ISV then cylinder head. I made some aluminium plugs on my lathe to seal the intake pipe & ISV where the rubber link connected them, plugged the pipe stub on the inlet manifold & made a blanking plate for the inlet manifold. neater underbonnet, still runs & ticks-over ~600 rpm  .
What are the benefits / disadvantages of doing this?
Does it mean less interaction with other sensors so it's more 'dumb' but (in theory) reliable?
Fuc knose  I did it as part of a tidyup, also I'm going to be replacing the management system at some point in the future so it will be removed completely (only left in place now to avoid possible fault-codes or loss of power etc.) seems to drive without issue, car starts first turn of the key when cold (ok, its UK summertime but you know what I mean) and has stable idle after a second or two, once warmed the idle speed increases slightly but not realy noticeable... what to do next :-? Rich. |
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Post by Whistler on Jul 13, 2018 15:04:23 GMT
What are the benefits / disadvantages of doing this?
Does it mean less interaction with other sensors so it's more 'dumb' but (in theory) reliable?
Fuc knose I did it as part of a tidyup, also I'm going to be replacing the management system at some point in the future so it will be removed completely (only left in place now to avoid possible fault-codes or loss of power etc.) seems to drive without issue, car starts first turn of the key when cold (ok, its UK summertime but you know what I mean) and has stable idle after a second or two, once warmed the idle speed increases slightly but not realy noticeable... what to do next :-? Rich. Got any pics? |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2018 15:18:48 GMT
Fuc knose I did it as part of a tidyup, also I'm going to be replacing the management system at some point in the future so it will be removed completely (only left in place now to avoid possible fault-codes or loss of power etc.) seems to drive without issue, car starts first turn of the key when cold (ok, its UK summertime but you know what I mean) and has stable idle after a second or two, once warmed the idle speed increases slightly but not realy noticeable... what to do next :-? Rich. Got any pics? I'll sort some later... Rich. |
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Post by Horney on Jul 13, 2018 17:10:17 GMT
Actually drove it for once, and it fecking rained.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 14, 2018 12:44:11 GMT
Okey, if this works...... Isv blanking plugs (left the Isv attached to the throttlebody / wired as I dont want possible fault-codes & their associated fun  )  underbonnet shot (on its side BUT I've tried  ) showing the inlet manifold's 'thermo-valve' blanked & associated plumbing removed, also the terible temporary breather re-route & home-made catchcan   another of the 'thermo-valve' blank plate fitted, I'm going to make a neater one when I've time as this was a rushed hack-out job as was in a rush to get icecream  also shows the 'mk1' attempt at the 'Coil-on-plug' wiring, a neater version is in progress   Sorta what I've been fiddlin with lately... Rich. |
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157 
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Post by pewe on Jul 14, 2018 20:43:43 GMT
Finally resolved the flat-spot mid-range.
Not proud to say it was self-inflicted and I missed at track day at Combe (though driving No1 son's Integra TypeR proved interesting).
Apparently when I changed the cam belt I managed to align the inlet cam 1 (or maybe 2) teeth out.
I now know the safest way is to have the engine at TDC and appropriate cam marks pointing up, then put the belt onto bottom pulley and exhaust side first.
Tie this to the pulley using zip ties or lightly held by mole grips then count 19 teeth inside and between the cam marks. Slide the belt onto the inlet and tensioner
Release the tensioner and re-tension - job done.
Evidently if you do it the other way round the tensioner when released will pull the cam anti-clockwise hence 1 or 2 teeth out
You live and learn....
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tb63
New Here
Posts: 13
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Post by tb63 on Jul 14, 2018 22:54:30 GMT
Driven it from Oxon to Goodwood FOS, then back and forth daily from Hayling Island to the FOS, last day tomorrow sadly but a great time had by my son and myself getting our dose of petrol headiness in.. She's performed faultlessly, plus Hayling Island has far more mx5 per capita than anywhere I've seen, loads of waves daily as a bonus...
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Post by oiled on Jul 15, 2018 8:41:10 GMT
Rear handbrake cable on my MK1. Pita  |
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Post by Horney on Jul 15, 2018 10:32:53 GMT
Just fitted some Carbotech XP10 Brake pads to the front axel.
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Post by charlotte on Jul 16, 2018 18:42:59 GMT
Changed the rad cap, changed the undertray, changed (half) the ATF and fixed both wingmirrors. Also rebuilt a Honda genny bar the last panel which will not fit....it works and makes power though which means I can have hot water on the boat  How the hell I transport a 3Kw genny in/on an MX5 IDK....I think I might be swapping Tiny Car for my friend's Transit one weekend! |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 24, 2018 22:54:52 GMT
  playing with wheel fitment, real Compomotive (not plastic copies) but a little heavy compared to OE Mazda wheels  need spiggot-rings as were specified for a Cherry Turbo when bought new by a friend, now the question do I make or buy the aforementioned 'rings'  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Jul 25, 2018 9:09:11 GMT
Replacing vampire taps with soldered linesman splices. Vamp taps are just the worst.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 25, 2018 17:37:42 GMT
Replacing vampire taps with soldered linesman splices. Vamp taps are just the worst. same as scotch locks? the antichrist of elastic-trickery knitting  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Jul 25, 2018 19:19:17 GMT
Replacing vampire taps with soldered linesman splices. Vamp taps are just the worst. same as scotch locks? the antichrist of elastic-trickery knitting Rich. Same thing. A product from hell. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 26, 2018 7:26:35 GMT
Found a nail in the tire that's been slowly deflating the last week and fixed the leak in a fuel line. Flexi 7mm socket screwdriver saves the day! Should have it back on the road for the weekend, if not tomorrow |
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)
) showing the inlet manifold's 'thermo-valve' blanked & associated plumbing removed, also the terible temporary breather re-route & home-made catchcan 
also shows the 'mk1' attempt at the 'Coil-on-plug' wiring, a neater version is in progress 
How the hell I transport a 3Kw genny in/on an MX5 IDK....I think I might be swapping Tiny Car for my friend's Transit one weekend!
le sigh