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Post by Fizbne on Aug 15, 2017 10:32:08 GMT
Hey, as some of you maaay know. I FINALLY have a standalone ECU. It's a Megasquirt 1 PNP. So a very early one.
I've done 0 setup on it (a friend has slapped on a base map to get me going), apart from getting the actual car ready for it (fitting wideband, IAT, VTPS etc) and I have some questions for you MS / Tunerstudio gurus.
Cold start is a Canoeing bitch, and once it does catch, my warmup is LEAN. like 15-16.5 AFR. It's almost as if I have 0 warmup enrichment.
Also, when the engine is still cold-ish and I'm at cruise (constant speed, 30/50mph, 2-3k RPM's, typical cruising gear and RPM right?) I'll get a dangerously high AFR of high 16's - 17's. Sometimes this will peak to 18+. The car will inherently run like utter prarrie canoe, obviously.
I'm on a strictly 98+RON liquid diet to help prevent det etc, but with AFR's this lean I'm worries it'll go kaboom.
Once the car is up to temp, it starts to behave. 50MPH cruise (2.5kRPMish) sits at a steady mid 16's.
Without providing my tables, would anyone be able to suggest anything to do? I haven't got a laptop with a serial port just yet (ordered a SICK old school Dell off eBay so waiting for that to arrive).
Muchos thanks.
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Post by NurseHolliday on Aug 15, 2017 10:54:12 GMT
why didn't you just use a serial to usb converter?
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Post by martiny on Aug 15, 2017 11:08:03 GMT
Datalogging in TunerStudio is ace. It is your best friend.
Not a great deal you can do until the laptop arrives though if you haven't done so already I strongly recommend getting a charger that runs off the ciggy lighter socket. I got so sick of buying new batteries for my old Dell and they barely lasted for my whole commute when new anyway.
Once your old tech arrives you can get a good look at what after start enrichment, warmup enrichment, coolant temp and AFR are doing. I'd just log a startup and idle for 5 minutes while temps rise. If you warm the wideband before cranking the engine you might also get a clue about whether your cranking fuel is too much or too little. Can be hard to tell though as the first bit of fuel tends to swing it from totally lean to massively rich (after a momentary delay as the wideband isn't instantaneous).
(Disclaimer - All the above is from my experience of an MS2-based DIYPNP so I'm kinda guessing that MS1 has similar basic functionality)
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 15, 2017 12:43:21 GMT
why didn't you just use a serial to usb converter? It didn't work for some reason. Tried everything but it's being a bitch. Plus it'll just make life easier having something I can just plug and play. Hate faffing around with prarrie canoe tbh.
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 15, 2017 12:44:28 GMT
Datalogging in TunerStudio is ace. It is your best friend. Not a great deal you can do until the laptop arrives though if you haven't done so already I strongly recommend getting a charger that runs off the ciggy lighter socket. I got so sick of buying new batteries for my old Dell and they barely lasted for my whole commute when new anyway. Once your old tech arrives you can get a good look at what after start enrichment, warmup enrichment, coolant temp and AFR are doing. I'd just log a startup and idle for 5 minutes while temps rise. If you warm the wideband before cranking the engine you might also get a clue about whether your cranking fuel is too much or too little. Can be hard to tell though as the first bit of fuel tends to swing it from totally lean to massively rich (after a momentary delay as the wideband isn't instantaneous). (Disclaimer - All the above is from my experience of an MS2-based DIYPNP so I'm kinda guessing that MS1 has similar basic functionality) Yarp. I always let the wideband warm up before I start the car. I'll be buying a copy of TunerStudio so I can get access to Auto tune features just to make life easier.
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Post by NurseHolliday on Aug 15, 2017 14:54:35 GMT
why didn't you just use a serial to usb converter? It didn't work for some reason. Tried everything but it's being a bitch. Plus it'll just make life easier having something I can just plug and play. Hate faffing around with prarrie canoe tbh. I realised you need a driver for it because there's serial involved.
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Post by joeytalent on Aug 15, 2017 16:43:49 GMT
Welcome to the land of MegaSquirt.
Questions: 1. What kind of wideband do you have? The Innovate ones require free-air calibration prior to installation into the downpipe. 2. Have you calibrated any of the sensors? 3. What mapping are you using? Alpha-N? Speed density? I'm not sure what MS1 supports. 4. Have you done basics, like set the timing?
You can't just slap it in and hope it works, even if it has a "base map" on - unless you've installed the MS1 along with the engine it was previously mapped with. You have to at least do everything I said above before you can even tune the base idle, and until you've done that, you can't start on cold start, warmup enhancement (but only after you've set up your VE and advanced tables).
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 16, 2017 7:04:36 GMT
It didn't work for some reason. Tried everything but it's being a bitch. Plus it'll just make life easier having something I can just plug and play. Hate faffing around with prarrie canoe tbh. I realised you need a driver for it because there's serial involved. Yea I know dis. Still didn't work - supposedly something to do with the pins or some prarrie canoe. Whatevs, I bought a ghetto Dell laptop with a serial port ahha.
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Aug 16, 2017 7:09:09 GMT
There's quite a process involved with getting a converter to work with your laptop, more so than just installing a driver... let me see if I wrote down what I did...
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 16, 2017 7:13:22 GMT
Welcome to the land of MegaSquirt. Questions: 1. What kind of wideband do you have? The Innovate ones require free-air calibration prior to installation into the downpipe. 2. Have you calibrated any of the sensors? 3. What mapping are you using? Alpha-N? Speed density? I'm not sure what MS1 supports. 4. Have you done basics, like set the timing? You can't just slap it in and hope it works, even if it has a "base map" on - unless you've installed the MS1 along with the engine it was previously mapped with. You have to at least do everything I said above before you can even tune the base idle, and until you've done that, you can't start on cold start, warmup enhancement (but only after you've set up your VE and advanced tables). Oh, poor choice of words when I said I've done 0 setup on it. It HAS been setup by a good matey, but it was a one-evening kinda jobby to get me going. 1 - I have a PLX wideband that doesn't require free-air calibration 2 - Sensors have been calibrated 3 - I'm using Speed Density for mapping. 4 - Base timing has been set, basics done! Just FYI, it's got a tune on it that's been used by a few of our groupie so it does "work" as a get up a go kinda thing. Also, we played around with it last night and opted to add MOAR fuel across the VE table. Now it's not leaning out horrendously on cruise, however idle is now fairly rich at about 12.5ish AFR. 50MPH cruise in 4th/5th gear is now a nice and lovely 15.3 AFR. Spark was advanced around the mid and top range and this has "woken" up the car a bit under WOT. WUE is "enabled", not sure what Tim did with it in regards to the settings and stuff, but it doesn't seem to like do anything lol. Tbh WUE need like WUleaness. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ SHRUGS. Where I stand at the moment with it though. It's now safe to drive without risk of literally cooking my cylinders. Once I get the toplap (hoping for today!), I'll be buying a copy of tuner studio for my Autotuning pleasure and like, basically use it ERRYDAY to hit target AFR's.
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 16, 2017 7:44:41 GMT
There's quite a process involved with getting a converter to work with your laptop, more so than just installing a driver... let me see if I wrote down what I did... Man. It's a pain in the dickhole. I've set baud input manually in Control Panel, also set that thing that begins with "F" unticked, uhhh... Can't remember what else I did. I hate USB to Serial adapters.
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Post by NurseHolliday on Aug 16, 2017 9:17:25 GMT
Soz, I never used a laptop, I managed to get it talking to my Android tablet really easily. When I say really easily, I mean I plugged it in and it worked.
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 16, 2017 14:56:06 GMT
Dumb question - Do IAT's need calibrating, or are they a plug and play type gizmo that requires no calibrating?
I forgot to mention, yesterday after a drive and a 20 minute cool-down of the car prior to plugging in a laptop, the IAT was reading 50degrees Celcius. The sensor is located in the stock 1.6 Crossover Pipe, just south of where the throttle is.
Surely it's not 50 degrees down there?
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Post by Fizbne on Aug 16, 2017 15:18:33 GMT
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Post by martiny on Aug 16, 2017 16:05:10 GMT
Heatsoak for 20 mins could mean yes, it really got to 50°C in there.
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