I was running eco tyres, they were prarrie canoe but ok...they got worn so i needed new tyres.. im on a low budget..
Bought Nankang ultrasport ns-2 as they sounded good and had good reviews and they were 130 pound for 4 new tyres.. seemed good to me!..
I dont see how you can truly test a tyres capability on the road so i can only tell you that they are ok on road..
On track..They are preetty crap to be honest.. If you really want to push the cars limits theylle just squeal and understeer.. if you stay within their limits, you get a half decent mediocre cornering speed.
Had budgets on my panasport's and have to say they were incredible for cheap tyres.?!A testament to how good mx5's handle. Ok they was poo in the wet, but who drives quick on the road in the wet anyway.
I've just fitted some nankang ns2r's to my rpf1's. I had some on my Dc2 and was impressed by them in 15" so see what the 14's are like.
And you can test a tyre on the road, tracks are much smoother than the road. OK so you can go into loony mode on the track if you wish, but you're tyres get a real workout on the UK's country roads if you have a proper spirited drive
I'd try a geo setup if you're experiencing serious understeer on track. Mine only understeered right at the limits on the budgets in the dry and them tyres were really cheap cheap:)
I had four mismatched budget tyres on heavy 16 inch wheels when I got my mk1, it was... interesting...
Switched to vredestein sportrac 5s on 14s which were really good. Loads of fun and not too melty on track.
Had some r888s, again on 14s, didn't get on with them on track (had the pressures too high though) and we're much too noisey on the road.
I've got Federal RSRs on my mk2 and the grip is incredible. Not at all noisey on the road. But with stock power I feel they might actually be less fun on track than decent road tyres like the vreds or khumo HS51.
Had Dunlop Sport BluResponse on my old wheels, pretty good in the dry and wet, quite soft sidewalls though, made high speed cornering on bumpy roads interesting, good tyres for the money though.
Got Federal 595s on the front and Maxxis Victras on the back now, the 595s have to be really pushed to understear in the dry, the Maxxis don't like the rain a lot. Not a lot available in 205/60/13 now though, might have to stretch some 185 NS2Rs on next time instead
I used to run Nankang NS2R's and for the money you won't get a sticker tyre.
I use Rainsport 3's for daily use / wet track use and they're awesome. Very soft walled (so a bit squidgy feeling in turn in) compared to the R888R's I run on track but never used a tyre that grips as well in the wet. Brilliant tyre.
Post by myothercarsa2cv on Aug 7, 2016 8:15:18 GMT
Michelin Pilot Sport 3 (I think?) are on the car at the moment. I'll be going back to RSRs soon. The PS3 grips nicely but the RSRs are another level. Reasonably priced too. Going to replace the PS3s with Rainsports for the winter I think, give them a go.
i dont get under steer as such maybe i exaggerate. i just reach the limit on the front and the squeal alot. just need more stick. its not like i turn and the car goes straight on. geo is all good. i just need a more serious tyre. i have the cheap ultra sports not the sticky ns2r. they are pretty much brand new so lots of skids and then next year i will upgrade to something really sticky.
Uniroyal Rainsport 2 - Good dry grip, great in the wet (obviously), wear quite quickly if you use them on track, and they overheat quite quickly. Great tyres if you don't do any track time.
Bridgestone RE002 - Mega dry grip for 'normal' tyres, adequate in the wet, although they're nothing special. Last a long time and don't melt on track like most normal tyres. Grip levels drop off massively as they get towards the wear markers though, IME.
Nankang NS2R (180) - Great dry grip, great wet grip, last well, not very confidence inspiring though IMO, sometimes you just turn in and hope for the best. Hellishly noisy.
Federal RSR - Only used these briefly in the dry, much the same as the Nankangs, but give much more confidence on turn in.
Yoko AD08R - Masses of dry grip, great wet grip, give massive confidence. Can't comment on durability though. Generally more expensive than the Nankangs/Federals.
Post by NurseHolliday on Sept 27, 2016 16:25:22 GMT
It's kind of hard to review a tyre without comparing it to others but here's a try:
Yokohama Parada Spec 2 - Until I tried more track focused tyres, I thought these were the best tyres ever. Great feedback and grip on the road, reduced grip in the wet but still a decent amount of feedback so you can feel the car losing grip fairly progressively, total dogprarrie canoee in the snow apart from when you want to do 5mph drifts. Unacceptable road noise if you're only used to road tyres, whisper quiet compared to track tyres. Squealed less than Goodyear Eagle F1s.
Yokohama AD08R - Please see Federal 595RSR review - 125% of the performance for >150% of the price
Federal 595RSR - Excellent grip and feedback in the dry, need warming up in both wet and dry, and fairly hefty road noise. They are surprisingly underwhelming in the wet, it's almost like water robs them of feedback so I often find myself driving quite tense in the wet kind of a split second behind the car, constantly feeling like I'm trying to catch up with what it's doing, which is fairly infuriating. It annoys me that I can't relax with them in the wet.
Yokohama A048R - Hands down the best tyre I've driven on, but so expensive, and canoe all tread depth when new. Cold, these provide almost as much grip as the 595RSRs when hot (possibly an exaggeration). My MX5 has a paltry 140bhp and it can't shake the back end lose with cold A048rs without weight shift provocation. There is an impressive amount of feedback, except under braking, the car moves about a lot under heavy track braking and I can feel it through my seat but not through the wheel and the pedal, which again is annoying, the level of cornering grip afforded does not correlate with the level of braking grip in my head. Given how quickly I can corner with these tyres, I feel like I should be able to brake later than I can, but then I lock up but I can't feel it lock up instantly so I end up with clouds of tyre smoke and flat spots.
wannabe: What's the punishment for a lapsed MOT nowadays? Diary commitments and the need to still put it back together suggest missing my MOT date but needing it before I can get one sorted...
Jul 2, 2019 21:41:31 GMT
Zed.: used to be a ~£30 fine BUT I believe its income related....... (or it was 9 years ago when I got done )
Jul 2, 2019 23:46:11 GMT
Crumpets: "Standard cost" is £54.85 - (That's the highest VOSA will allow a garage to charge for a standard car test) most garages usually do it for £30-£50 to be competitive.
Jul 3, 2019 7:05:46 GMT
JamesMk3: Issue with no MOT these days is as soon as the test elapses, insurance won't cover you. If the old bill catch you, it's 6 points and £300 FPN, or court, which can be anything up to a ban and unlimited fine.
Jul 3, 2019 15:58:45 GMT
wannabe: Is that actually true?? What happens if you're driving to an MOT without a current MOT, which the law permits you to do?
Jul 3, 2019 21:28:13 GMT
Crumpets: You’re only allowed to drive your car when its MOT has expired if you’ve booked an MOT and are driving to the test centre. If you’re stopped by the police on the way, you’ll have to be able to prove that you have an appointment.
Jul 4, 2019 7:51:01 GMT
Crumpets: If your car fails its MOT, you can only drive it if the previous year’s MOT is still valid (i.e. the test took place on a date earlier than last year’s). If your vehicle is deemed ‘un-roadworthy’ the above doesn’t apply and you can’t drive it on the
Jul 4, 2019 7:51:58 GMT
Crumpets: By 'Un-roadyworthy' - I mean if it has failed its MOT on a "Dangerous" defect as per the changes applied on the 20th May 2018. Sorry to spam the chat, just a little difficult to explain in 256 letters haha.
Jul 4, 2019 7:55:23 GMT
wannabe: Info is always welcome I thought that a Fail is a Fail is a Fail now - so you lose the ability to drive on the previous MOT in all circumstances?? It also is not clear if your insurance is invalid without an MOT?? I thought it was valid!
Jul 4, 2019 10:17:58 GMT
FFS Corders: Ask your insurer about that, they will be able to give a definite answer over if they'd pay out or not. The fact you need insurance to take it to an MOT and not tax should be a good indicator
Jul 4, 2019 12:39:38 GMT
Crumpets: Alarm keeps going off in the night - Getting annoying now & I wasn't popular at 4.30AM. Gurrrrr
Jul 6, 2019 7:52:12 GMT
wannabe: This is why I think alarms are a bit of a waste of time nowadays - everyone ignores them, gets annoyed by them, and thieves will take the car if they want it anyway... lol May I suggest a steering wheel lock?
Jul 6, 2019 11:49:04 GMT
Zed.: ~20 + years ago, I used to remove the battery, gearstick & steering wheel from my 2L ford engined Chevette (was living in a dodgy area of Swansea)
Jul 6, 2019 15:27:16 GMT
FFS Corders: Gearstick is a new one for me lol
Jul 6, 2019 16:10:20 GMT
Crumpets: Battery is good, I've jkust installed a battery isolator to stop it, only does it once ever so often - Might remove it down the line and keep it for the central locking aspect.
Jul 7, 2019 13:27:22 GMT
FFS Corders: Yaay MOT passed. Now got a few niggles to fix soonish
Jul 9, 2019 16:11:17 GMT
Zed.: niggles? is that a word for friendly advisories? always a feel-good moment when you have that pass paper in your hand, 12 months to worry about fixin the next problems
Jul 9, 2019 20:44:03 GMT
FFS Corders: Only one of those was tempermental hazards. The others are genuine niggles such as a couple of tired hoses and calipers that are on the way out. Getting a proper MOT means I find out what to prioritise
Jul 9, 2019 20:52:53 GMT