How To: Install central locking in a MX5 NA MK1 EUNOS MIATA
Feb 28, 2016 11:23:10 GMT
Horney, AndyMk2, and 1 more like this
Post by Dweenimus on Feb 28, 2016 11:23:10 GMT
I installed some central locking this week so thought I'd share how I did it.
First up, get yourself some super awesome actuators and a little black box to control it all.
I chose to go with rclick/rightclick. I ordered one from ebay . No wait, I screwed up before even that, I ordered the completely incorrect thing the first time. Didn't read the item correctly. Anyway, you need a 2door Central Locking Kit Remote Keyless CLR669WB-2d. Which has two master actuators. So your drivers door, when used with the key will open the other door and vice versa.
I'm not sure if they send out a generic kit. Cause I received two master actuators in my set, plus all the wiring for rear doors.
This is what you'll be greeted with
First off, get to grips with all the wires, they aren't scary.
You have the main connector, with a few feeds coming off. Look at your wiring diagram in the instructions and you'll see which ones do what. This helped when I snipped the excess cables for the rear doors that do not exist.
Getting rid of these cables first will help in the future. DO THIS NOW.
You also have another cable block that's for extras, I ignored this as I wasn't being fancy with wind up windows, or connecting it to an alarm. I may in the future add the electric window wind up, once my passenger window actually winds up and down.
You also have on the main connector block some cables to connect to boot release, siren and indicators.
Pink - boot release
Browns - indicators
red/black - siren.
All the other colours are irrelevant as they connect to colour coded connectors on the actuators
OK, ready?
First step, get some tools.
Drill, with some drills bits. Yes, you're going to have to drill some holes in your door.
Phillips/crosshead screwdriver
A 10mm socket - mainly for disconnecting your battery.
Some form of connecting wires to each other. Soldering/crimps etc
Step two.
Remove your door cards. This is pretty simple, they pop off, start from the bottom and work your way up. Then lift the door card upwards to remove. And peel back the plasticy stuff with the black sticky stuff.
Step three
Remove speaker, they should be on with a couple of screws. Simples. No need to remove from the wires. Simples.
Step four
You might want to go make yourself a cup of chamomile tea before you do this. This is the most frustrating bit.
Getting the wires through the doors, and car. I spent way to long on this. Get yourself a wire coat hanger. Apparently I don't have any so I cut off a sprong from the hand whisk (Do not tell the other half please!)
Right so now you've got this bendy bit of metal you want shove it through the door and into the car. Now tape the short bunch of wires to it and pull them through. Make sure it's the shorter bunch to the actuator cause, you know, you'll need the longer ones to go to the other door
You'll have something like this, that is just through the door, which now needs to go through the white clips and rubber to the door. I found it easier to do one at a time, So pull out the white clip, get the cable through the car.
Pull the cable through the white clip, then through the rubber etc etc.
Now, you need to do the same for the other door.
Feed the wires over the steering column and try to follow your existing loom. behind your Headunit etc. You may need to remove your tombstone. Which is simple, remove vents, two screws behind that and two at the bottom. Make note while you're behind here for a permanent live. You'll need this later. RED/YELLOW on your ISO harness. Check your haynes wiring manual if in doubt. Or get yourself a multimeter and check for voltages.
Step five.
Have a break, serious. You deserve it.
Step six
Mount your brackets
Don't leave your drill on screw like this numpty either.
It's a tight fit, trying to get flat points for the brackets, but it's doable.
This here picture ^ is important. Now you'll see you got a fair bit of space to work around. make sure the actuator is fully extended and doesn't foul on the door.
And the rod, you see the white part of the actuator? and the rod attached. This is another fun bit.
Step seven.
Bend your rod.
It should look something like this
Not like this
These rods will snap if you bend them too many times trying to get the correct position. Rclick were pretty amazing here I've gotta say, I contacted them in the afternoon and got a set of new rods the next day, FOR FREE!
You'll need to make a cut in your plasticy stuff for the rod to feed through. So your first bend will come up through this hole.
I found marking the rod and removing it and bending it on the bench better than trying to bend in place. Make sure your bend doesn't foul on the door!
Your second bend requires going under first rod from the handle and bent in line with the top one.
Pull the white part of the actuator to check that it move the lock open and closed. This is fairly important.
Do the same for the other door.
Step eight
you've got your actuators in! Woop! Now you need some power up in that black box!
Remember how I said to make note of your permanent live from your headunit? yeah, you're gonna need that. I found my ISO harness actually said what wire was a permanent live on the black connector block.
I'm also going to assume you haven't disconnected your battery yet. DO THIS NOW. I don't advise cutting into a permanent live with the battery still connected.
Connect your red wire from the connector block of the rclick to your permanent live. I soldered mine, you can use crimps or even the vampire clips that come in the rclick set. I've never used them, and don't trust them!
You'll also need to earth your rclick, this is the black wire. you can connect this to pretty much and other black wire in the car, or put a spade connector on and connect to the chassis earth points.
You'll also need to mount your black box somewhere. and sync your keys to the the box using the little button on it.
AND YOU'RE DONE! You should have something that does this. Have another cup of tea.
Don't put your door cards back on till it's all working!
Optional.
Remember those big brown wires that go to your indicators? Do you want to have your lights go on when you lock/unlock your doors? Well carry on reading!
This is your flasher unit
It's near your go faster peddle. You want the wires that go to this.
Green and white, and green and black. Your colours may be different. What I'd suggest is, strip some of the insulation from the brown wires to bare metal. Shove this bare metal into the connector block for the G/W + G/B and press the button on your remote and see if the lights come on. Doesn't matter which brown goes into which G/W or G/B.
Crimp them wires together and your got some flashy to go with your clicky.
Note:
I didn't connect the LED status bulb, because i've already got flashing LED's from my immobiliser and don't require/want another red blinking light in my car.
First up, get yourself some super awesome actuators and a little black box to control it all.
I chose to go with rclick/rightclick. I ordered one from ebay . No wait, I screwed up before even that, I ordered the completely incorrect thing the first time. Didn't read the item correctly. Anyway, you need a 2door Central Locking Kit Remote Keyless CLR669WB-2d. Which has two master actuators. So your drivers door, when used with the key will open the other door and vice versa.
I'm not sure if they send out a generic kit. Cause I received two master actuators in my set, plus all the wiring for rear doors.
This is what you'll be greeted with
First off, get to grips with all the wires, they aren't scary.
You have the main connector, with a few feeds coming off. Look at your wiring diagram in the instructions and you'll see which ones do what. This helped when I snipped the excess cables for the rear doors that do not exist.
Getting rid of these cables first will help in the future. DO THIS NOW.
You also have another cable block that's for extras, I ignored this as I wasn't being fancy with wind up windows, or connecting it to an alarm. I may in the future add the electric window wind up, once my passenger window actually winds up and down.
You also have on the main connector block some cables to connect to boot release, siren and indicators.
Pink - boot release
Browns - indicators
red/black - siren.
All the other colours are irrelevant as they connect to colour coded connectors on the actuators
OK, ready?
First step, get some tools.
Drill, with some drills bits. Yes, you're going to have to drill some holes in your door.
Phillips/crosshead screwdriver
A 10mm socket - mainly for disconnecting your battery.
Some form of connecting wires to each other. Soldering/crimps etc
Step two.
Remove your door cards. This is pretty simple, they pop off, start from the bottom and work your way up. Then lift the door card upwards to remove. And peel back the plasticy stuff with the black sticky stuff.
Step three
Remove speaker, they should be on with a couple of screws. Simples. No need to remove from the wires. Simples.
Step four
You might want to go make yourself a cup of chamomile tea before you do this. This is the most frustrating bit.
Getting the wires through the doors, and car. I spent way to long on this. Get yourself a wire coat hanger. Apparently I don't have any so I cut off a sprong from the hand whisk (Do not tell the other half please!)
Right so now you've got this bendy bit of metal you want shove it through the door and into the car. Now tape the short bunch of wires to it and pull them through. Make sure it's the shorter bunch to the actuator cause, you know, you'll need the longer ones to go to the other door
You'll have something like this, that is just through the door, which now needs to go through the white clips and rubber to the door. I found it easier to do one at a time, So pull out the white clip, get the cable through the car.
Pull the cable through the white clip, then through the rubber etc etc.
Now, you need to do the same for the other door.
Feed the wires over the steering column and try to follow your existing loom. behind your Headunit etc. You may need to remove your tombstone. Which is simple, remove vents, two screws behind that and two at the bottom. Make note while you're behind here for a permanent live. You'll need this later. RED/YELLOW on your ISO harness. Check your haynes wiring manual if in doubt. Or get yourself a multimeter and check for voltages.
Step five.
Have a break, serious. You deserve it.
Step six
Mount your brackets
Don't leave your drill on screw like this numpty either.
It's a tight fit, trying to get flat points for the brackets, but it's doable.
This here picture ^ is important. Now you'll see you got a fair bit of space to work around. make sure the actuator is fully extended and doesn't foul on the door.
And the rod, you see the white part of the actuator? and the rod attached. This is another fun bit.
Step seven.
Bend your rod.
It should look something like this
Not like this
These rods will snap if you bend them too many times trying to get the correct position. Rclick were pretty amazing here I've gotta say, I contacted them in the afternoon and got a set of new rods the next day, FOR FREE!
You'll need to make a cut in your plasticy stuff for the rod to feed through. So your first bend will come up through this hole.
I found marking the rod and removing it and bending it on the bench better than trying to bend in place. Make sure your bend doesn't foul on the door!
Your second bend requires going under first rod from the handle and bent in line with the top one.
Pull the white part of the actuator to check that it move the lock open and closed. This is fairly important.
Do the same for the other door.
Step eight
you've got your actuators in! Woop! Now you need some power up in that black box!
Remember how I said to make note of your permanent live from your headunit? yeah, you're gonna need that. I found my ISO harness actually said what wire was a permanent live on the black connector block.
I'm also going to assume you haven't disconnected your battery yet. DO THIS NOW. I don't advise cutting into a permanent live with the battery still connected.
Connect your red wire from the connector block of the rclick to your permanent live. I soldered mine, you can use crimps or even the vampire clips that come in the rclick set. I've never used them, and don't trust them!
You'll also need to earth your rclick, this is the black wire. you can connect this to pretty much and other black wire in the car, or put a spade connector on and connect to the chassis earth points.
You'll also need to mount your black box somewhere. and sync your keys to the the box using the little button on it.
AND YOU'RE DONE! You should have something that does this. Have another cup of tea.
Don't put your door cards back on till it's all working!
Optional.
Remember those big brown wires that go to your indicators? Do you want to have your lights go on when you lock/unlock your doors? Well carry on reading!
This is your flasher unit
It's near your go faster peddle. You want the wires that go to this.
Green and white, and green and black. Your colours may be different. What I'd suggest is, strip some of the insulation from the brown wires to bare metal. Shove this bare metal into the connector block for the G/W + G/B and press the button on your remote and see if the lights come on. Doesn't matter which brown goes into which G/W or G/B.
Crimp them wires together and your got some flashy to go with your clicky.
Note:
I didn't connect the LED status bulb, because i've already got flashing LED's from my immobiliser and don't require/want another red blinking light in my car.
le sigh