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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 28, 2019 13:26:03 GMT
I think being semi sensible... My dream build would probably be somewhere from 300 to 350 absolute max NA. Just enjoy the overall balance, exhaust noise, crisp throttle response. Probably far safer, easier on the car and the wallet. That's roughly where I'd end up ... the LFX is 320 to 330 depending on which you get, so I'd probably be at 330 to 350 once it was in with free flowing exhaust and intake. The reality is, putting one in would be I the region of £10k. Sounds crazy, but it's about the same as a Rocketeer kit and it's lighter and has more power Russell |
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Post by V6 on Jun 28, 2019 14:48:00 GMT
I think I'd need to add some tasty cams to even approach that. The USA guys claim some large numbers, but who knows whether that's boasting talk or reality.
The LFX will definitely have more torque as its a chunk larger capacity. For all the extra cost of shafts, gearbox and LSD swaps that would require though, at the end it will be the better swop in theory.
No idea what the LFX and the extra bits all weigh mind you.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2019 15:01:03 GMT
The USA guys claim some large numbers, but who knows whether that's boasting talk or reality. metric or imperial hp? Rich. (prefers imperial...) |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 29, 2019 0:59:16 GMT
I think I'd need to add some tasty cams to even approach that. The USA guys claim some large numbers, but who knows whether that's boasting talk or reality. The LFX will definitely have more torque as its a chunk larger capacity. For all the extra cost of shafts, gearbox and LSD swaps that would require though, at the end it will be the better swop in theory. No idea what the LFX and the extra bits all weigh mind you. I think the numbers are pretty close, there is a Greek car that's putting out the same power with the standard V8 roadsters kit and no other changes to the engine The cars that have been finished so far are coming out lighter than they were pre swap, by about 30kg. Weight balance is better than standard as well, 51/49 Russell |
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Post by wannabe on Jun 29, 2019 11:10:41 GMT
The cars that have been finished so far are coming out lighter than they were pre swap, by about 30kg. Weight balance is better than standard as well, 51/49 Lighter but more power is a good thing  I thought they were supposed to be 50:50 weight distribution as standard, though?? |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 29, 2019 11:47:23 GMT
The cars that have been finished so far are coming out lighter than they were pre swap, by about 30kg. Weight balance is better than standard as well, 51/49 Lighter but more power is a good thing I thought they were supposed to be 50:50 weight distribution as standard, though?? No, 52/48 as standard Russell |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2019 11:52:40 GMT
No, 52/48 as standard Russell then add driver, passanger, boot full of c rap.......... Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 29, 2019 12:30:51 GMT
No, 52/48 as standard Russell then add driver, passanger, boot full of c rap.......... Rich. And your car's got even heavier, so is slower and with even worse handling and braking. Yay. Russell |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2019 12:51:38 GMT
then add driver, passanger, boot full of c rap.......... Rich. And your car's got even heavier, so is slower and with even worse handling and braking. Yay. Russell do not forget all the bodykit / aero / bgw / wide (& heavy?) wheels & tyres for better grip etc. then a turbo to make it faster..... sorry, got a bit carried away  Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 29, 2019 12:53:13 GMT
Starting to make lists for the MX5 ... need a fair few bits but nothing too expensive. I think it will go back on the road with a fairly standard engine setup, just get it an MOT and then make some plans once I've driven it a bit.
LFX is a nice idea, but realistically it's a crazy amount of money to put into an MX5. Probably £15,000 total spend on the entire car. At that money I could do an LS1 ... I'd prefer an LFX but the resale value of an LS1 would be higher, which has to be taken into consideration.
I also need to think about other engine configurations ... I'll update the engine swaps thread and do some comparisons ... but K20 / K24, KL V6, SR20, 1UZ and then the turbo / supercharged options need to be considered again if I'm effectively starting from scratch.
Russell
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Post by thruxton on Jun 29, 2019 17:24:27 GMT
Jeez Russell.
Why not just but an RF and drive it like you stole it from day one?
Better than spending your life in the workshop.
And waaay more fun.
Doesn't matter what you build you can't use that power on the street and at the track there's always someone faster.
All the best.
Rich.
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Post by V6 on Jun 29, 2019 19:16:46 GMT
A UK sourced K20 makes a LOT of sense. Light, revvy, fun. Add an SC for more than mine will make. Only lacking will be the soundtrack. But it'll likely be better track tool. As yours is caged... That would suit well. Didn't want to sound too negative regarding your original 10k target. But I'd say your new one of £15k is closer to the mark. Common sense goes out the window with these things. Best to do what you want and to hell with resale. Keep it. Problem solved  Or Canoe it all off an buy a ZO6. Ive had days I wondered why I didn't lol |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 29, 2019 20:15:51 GMT
Jeez Russell. Why not just but an RF and drive it like you stole it from day one? Better than spending your life in the workshop. And waaay more fun. Doesn't matter what you build you can't use that power on the street and at the track there's always someone faster. All the best. Rich. Guess it depends what you find fun, I generally find standard cars boring after very little time, and buying an almost new car is just throwing money away. Doing something with a Mk1 is likely to gain in value over time, as long as it's thought through. I enjoy planning builds and spending time in the workshop so that's not a downside to me, that's the whole point. Once I've finished a project I often sell it on and start another one having barely driven it. I also tend to have 3 or 4 cars at a time, one or two I can drive and one or two to play with. My first kit car took years to build and I sold it within months of the SVA test, with 562 miles on the clock. Might not make sense to everyone but we're all different. I'm not the kind of person who feels like I have to use "all the power" on the street, and if the fact that there's always someone faster at the track worries you, why go at all? I enjoy driving cars, whether on the road or the track. I'm not worried if I'm fastest or slowest, I just enjoy the feeling and I get a lot of pleasure from driving a car that I know has a lot of me in it. A UK sourced K20 makes a LOT of sense. Light, revvy, fun. Add an SC for more than mine will make. Only lacking will be the soundtrack. But it'll likely be better track tool. As yours is caged... That would suit well. Didn't want to sound too negative regarding your original 10k target. But I'd say your new one of £15k is closer to the mark. Common sense goes out the window with these things. Best to do what you want and to hell with resale. Keep it. Problem solved Or canoe it all off an buy a ZO6. Ive had days I wondered why I didn't lol The soundtrack matters a lot to me though, V6 I've not done properly yet so that's part of why it intrigues me. Whether LFX really makes sense is debatable, but from what I can tell the fastest MX5s are LFX powered so that's interesting as well Z06 ... hmmm, that's come up in a few conversations recently, have to admit I do like the idea. I guess part of the thing with sticking with the MX5 is the idea of getting a slow car to go relatively fast, rather than driving a fast car relatively slowly! It's really hard to explain why some things make sense to me and other things don't ... some things just intrigue / inspire me. I'm perfectly happy with the idea of gradually buying parts and putting a kit together on a spare car, then transferring it over onto the green shell once it's ready. It's possible that I'll get 2 years into it, and realise it won't happen ... and that's fine too, I'd rather give it a go than just sit around watching telly in the evenings Russell |
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Post by V6 on Jun 29, 2019 20:57:08 GMT
I'm the same in that I like making stuff in the workshop. Usually wood or metal work. Not necessarily car related. TV is a vast waste of time. Always things to do, or more to learn.
Before this I never had a properly modified car. Swapping wheels and putting on lower springs doesn't count! So from reading Street Machine mags as a kid since 1983 ish... to when I bought my five, I never had a project car. All the talk and interest as a teen, twenty something all kinda vanished. Life got in the way. So this is me ticking a long overdue box.
Would I do it all over again? Not sure. I'd probably be lazier in the future. If I could afford to upgrade I'd probably buy a finished track car, or something else daft.
That said, I have lots of ideas. I try to ignore them.
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jun 30, 2019 8:21:16 GMT
Interesting comparing power outputs ... I think the numbers are fairly accurate, but I'll edit them if they're not. Top two would need stronger back end with the associated costs / complexity
Chevy LFX 335bhp, approx 180kg with ancillaries
Chevy LS1 345bhp, approx 230kg with ancillaries
Honda K20 200bhp, approx 190kg with ancillaries
Lexus 1UZ 250bhp, approx 220kg with ancillaries
Honda J32 225bhp, approx 175kg with ancillaries
Mazda KLV6 175bhp, approx 175kg with ancillaries
Jag AJ30 240bhp, approx 190kg with ancillaries
The really interesting thing is, I've seen a load of comments about how the various engine swap/s don't add much or any weight to the car ... but looking for the weights, I came across this ...
Mazda BP 116bhp, approx 120kg with ancillaries
So I'm guessing the weight is gained back elsewhere? Or are the figures wrong, or are people being 'optimistic' about the weight? Will have a look for some pics of engines on the scales, so I can see the actual weights and see what's actually being weighed!
Russell
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le sigh