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Post by Zed. on Nov 22, 2022 19:07:50 GMT
5.38 is an absurd ratio, acceleration video will be interesting for sure. Lots of quick gear changes haha. don't think it's insane, purposfull maybe? I've chosen it for my bravery intended use, 120mph is fast enough for me  will have incar gopro but as to gearchanges, I have a cunning plan  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 22, 2022 21:54:55 GMT
Gleason demonstrated a gear hobber once that they boasted would obviate the need for lapping, didn’t work for us…
However, with the improvements in metal cutting technology I wouldn’t be surprised if it was possible these days, for mass produced vehicles.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 22, 2022 22:45:28 GMT
Gleason demonstrated a gear hobber once that they boasted would obviate the need for lapping subject of lapping...  the feint marking on the crownwheel, if you can see around & behind the blue...  and on the pinion... anyway, back to fiddlin!  collection of 'bits'...  pinion parts order, new collapsable spacer to fit between bearings.  in their order.  and the pinion back in the pigshead... I've collapsed the collapsable spacer to set the preload on the pinion bearings BUT not not finally fitted the oilseal & flange as I'm thinking of making a solidspacer as this would allow for 'idiot-proof' flange removal & replacement, will think about that tomorrow.... will this be the longest diff build? Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 23, 2022 7:45:01 GMT
When we had achieved the desired bedding pattern we used to measure from the front of the pinion to the crown wheel and etch the result onto the pinion.
The set was also numbered so that they were paired and the bedding could be reproduced during later assembly.
The “number” etched onto your pinion intrigues me, does it relate to the spacing I refer to?
We used slip gauges.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 23, 2022 16:42:09 GMT
The “number” etched onto your pinion intrigues me, does it relate to the spacing I refer to? I'm guessing its the 'pair' number  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 23, 2022 19:58:53 GMT
recieved a new (in box) but secondhand and somewhat discounted Stack ST3403 Lambda gauge kit with Lsu4.9 02 sensor, these are not cheap so when one appeared on ebay with a bin or best-offer I couldn't resist being cheeky  being cheeky paid off and it was bought for a significant discount  www.autometer.com/pub/media/manual/2650-1928A.pdf8 pages of distractions  I'll probably just plug it into the ecu for tuning not pretty lights Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 24, 2022 10:55:14 GMT
another order to Mx5parts, pair of genuine front lower wishbones (mk2 type) mk1 wiper linkage and assorted bolts... the front suspension / subframe moneypit will hopefully be sound for a while Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 24, 2022 12:28:30 GMT
back to the engine fitment,its raining todat so I'm staying indoors   thinking sumps (well, drysump)  theres a minor steeringrack clearance issue, ok the cylinderblock is supported on wood to raise slightly but my plan on using redily available cast aluminium pand is under threat & I might have to resort to fabricating / modifying a 'standard' Vauxhall steel oil pan..  I have a 'Pace' drysump pan, this has the front and rear scavange pickup points as 'wells' in front and rear with a 'trough' to collect the oil.  I also have (on an engine) a 'Titan' drysump pan, this has the front scavange pickup point more central and might work with Mazda's enginebay layout. otherwise its time to chop&weld... more thinking to follow.... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 25, 2022 8:10:46 GMT
It would be a sin to chop either of those beautiful alloy sumps.
Why not wait until you have your new tubular subframe in situ and try the engine fitment then, with your chosen sump fitted to the engine?
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Post by Zed. on Nov 25, 2022 8:42:02 GMT
It would be a sin to chop either of those beautiful alloy sumps. Why not wait until you have your new tubular subframe in situ and try the engine fitment then, with your chosen sump fitted to the engine? the subframe will position the steeringrack in the same place (hopefully!) and the rack is the issue  won't be the first sump thats modified Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 25, 2022 11:33:15 GMT
so, whatsinthebox?  Mx5parts pulled out the stops with this order, less than 24 hours from pressing the 'buy' button to delivery  2 x Front Upper Wishbone Arm Nut, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5 1 x Front Lower Suspension Arm, MX5 Mk2 & 2.5 (left) 1 x Front Lower Suspension Arm, MX5 Mk2 & 2.5 (right) 2 x Windscreen Wiper Arm Nut, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5 2 x Split Pin, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5 2 x Front Upper Wishbone Arm Bolt, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5 2 x Front Upper Arm & Track Rod End Castle Nut, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5 1 x Windscreen Wiper Linkage, Complete, RHD MX5 Mk1 so, front suspension nearly all new components / top & bottom genuine wishbones & new tubular front subframe why new wishbones? all my 'spares' are scruffy to say the least, new are clean (obviously?) and hopefully straight as used components can be 'weathered' from ~30 years use. overkill maybe but wishbones are an expensive futureproofing and I've the possibility of using them to make jigs from the wiper linkage was a 'because it was available' and my 'old' linkages were scruffy & siezed / worn... one less thing to worry about. hopefully sort the diff tonight and maybe drop the complete drysumped XE in the silver car to assess fitment & 'see' problems Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 25, 2022 12:31:31 GMT
It would be a sin to chop either of those beautiful alloy sumps. Why not wait until you have your new tubular subframe in situ and try the engine fitment then, with your chosen sump fitted to the engine? the subframe will position the steeringrack in the same place (hopefully!) and the rack is the issue won't be the first sump thats modified Rich. I modified an alloy Manta sump when fitting the XE in the Westfield, machined the bottom off to increase ground clearance and extended the winged area to bring the oil capacity back up. No good for you if dry sumping. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 25, 2022 23:46:19 GMT
back to the diff...  cleaned the pinion flange & removed the ballance-weight thing, refitted the oilseal protector / guard plate as theres a chance this diff may end up in dirty conditions  test-fitting the oilseal....  the oilseal has a 'lip' that protrudes into the protector so checking it fits togther...  flange fitted & tightened to the previously decided preload.  Lsd fitted & backlash set @ 0.004", the bearing preload needed setting when this was photographed hence the locktabs were not fitted.  subject of diff spool / Lsd bearing preload, enter the micrometer. tomorows job, re apply 'blue' and inspect the teeth-mesh then put it ready to bolt onto the car. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 27, 2022 0:13:23 GMT
final mesh pattern checks done, goodenoughforme  crownwheel drive.  crownwheel coast.  pinion drive.  pinion coast (top) and drive (bottom).  Locktabs fitted to the diff bearing adjusters and Done just paint on the pinion / propshaft flange and forget about it untill rear suspension assembly time Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Nov 27, 2022 8:10:19 GMT
Nice job, don’t forget the oil…
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