|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 11, 2019 23:21:12 GMT
I've decided on the multiplate clutch direction, NOT oem feel! Supermiata sell clutches & spare parts, after emailing I know that their discs are .250" (6mm) and the AP Racing multplate covers I've in my workshop are for a 7.1mm disc  Luckily I have a lathe (well, 2 & a milling-machine) so can sort the diference  OR do I use a Tran-x 5 speed (based on the Ford Sierra type 9) with a Quaife bellhousing (~£600+  ) and forget mix&match clutches  Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..... Rich. Interested to hear how that turns out :-) need to be able to afford the bellhousing :-? might need some work...... have everything else clutch & gearbox wise (new unbuilt gearbox & a few 1"/23spline multiplate 3paddle clutches (diferent spline to the mazda 24mm/22spline  ) Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 22, 2019 0:33:19 GMT
okey, been spendin..... bought an 'XTD' 1.6 (200mm clutch) flywheel from ebay in the USA, ordered 6 days ago & delivered today by FedEx  first impressions after opening the box are good, admittedly I decided to remove the paint that is hiding it's one-piece steel construction (integral ringgear)  my intention is to modify this flywheel to accept an AP Racing 7 1/4" multiplate clutch so reducing the diameter of the friction surface from 200mm to 186.85.. and stepped by 2.5mm to the outside for the required cover spiggot and clamping force  I have a few 'pre-loved' AP cover assemblies so the choice is between the 'grey' and ' orange' spring-diaphram pressures (the 'orange' can handle ~ 400ft/lbs so more than I will need, grey is a little more...) if anyone reads this and wonders as to why I'm looking at this effort over a conventional clutch & flywheel setup, its down to rotational mass (the 7 1/4" setup is small!) and that I have the expensive bits already in stock next is to decide on what gearbox as I've a ford / Tran-X 'type9' 5speed straight-cut, close ratio ready to be built in the garage that easily answers clutch disc spline availability whereas using a Mazda gearbox involves importing 'discs from Supermiata in the USA (£$£$£$'s) do I buy a bellhousing, adapt an automatic item (if it can be done??) or weld / machine & fabricate my own from a '5 gearbox donor (I have a spool-gun welding set thats designed for thicker aluminium...) all this for the (annoying) noise of straight-cut gears & that I now have a 4.778;1 final-drive... Toys & financial ruin in a Eunos Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 13, 2019 11:31:01 GMT
more steps backwards  again, I've been caught wit ebay & a 'cheap' bitzer 1.8 ebgine / gearbox combo  £15 for the combo & £30 of fuel to collect (100 miles each way ) why do I keep doing this  and I'm looking at keeping the car with 1.6 power (or lack of?)..................................... anyway, engine stripped, crankshaft out ready to have the rear 2" removed that will become a 'boss' to bolt flywheels when I'm ready to machine (for the multiplate clutch idea) or lighten as to the rest, theres usefull spares for someone & the gearbox will be split to create a bellhousing (for bench-starting or compression-testing) and input shaft as a clutch-alignment tool. if theres any useable internal parts in the gearbox then theyu will go in the 'pile (or stacking-crates of 'maybe' & 'one-day' stuff that clutters my workspaces) oh, the life of a hoarder  as to actual Eunos work, no progress to report as I'm busy with sorting my garage-unit (cleaned & painted the flooring, the paint has not stuck to the previous coating & is stripping itself off whenever anything is done - like driving a car over it or turning the steering as this scuffs the paint with the tyre lifting it so, cannot work in there yet........................ and I've a list of welding jobs needing both personal & professional  Pam Fi Duw  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 20, 2019 20:45:09 GMT
Okey, as most of the images are awol, heres a few that might fill some gaps found this photo when going through the random's on the craptop, this photo was taken when I removed the cobalt exhaust to 'quieten' it (removed the comedy tailpipe & replaced it with some plain pipe). also it's scruffy below and maybe can see the 'flat' floorpan-frame chassis rail on the passanger side on of the 'to-do' jobs...  the revised (& quieter) tailpipe, aI used some scrap steel exhaust (probably from a mk5 transit) as a trial but it worked well, maybe I should clean the soot from the bumper the standard cobalt exhaust was just too loud for my liking (& considering that I've been around rallycars for nearly 30 years that says something!)  these are the 'spare' dashboard-switch plugs that one day I'll trace, possibly rear heated screen & unknown? maybe now as they are hosted I'll get around to it  drunk in charge of ebay, okey, I was drinking tea but you understand... it's an m45 from a Mercedes of some kind. the pulley is now removed and a 'kavs' replacement / reduction pulley fits the shaft so theres the possibility of diferent speed ratio's using pulleys made for the newgen Tailgate McNoIndicate mini's.... I'll fabricate some brackets over the summer & play with it.  a random visit to a local car dismantlers supplied the lucky find of a sorta rare early Kia Sportage front diff with the 4.778:1 Crownwheel & Pinion, these can be re-built into a post '93 mazda diff for a somewhat lower ratio (perfect for me as I'm looking into some club level hillclimb & sprint competition) for anyone interested, this is what the complete assembly looks like.     one of the many possibly pointless fiddlings I've done is to blank the 'thermo-valve' on the inlet manifold and delete it's coolant-feed pipework (from the thermostat housing to the inlet maifold through the Idle Stability control valve), this photo shows the ISV air pathway plugs, I was intending to completely remove the ISV & make a blanking-plate for the throttle-body but decided to leave it in place to have the ecu's loom connection plugged in so no possible fault-codes  time for a recent underbonnet shot, shows the enginebay (needing a clean) and that I've started simplifying the loom (removed the insulation tape and conduit to assess). also shows the Toyota Corrola based 'Coil-On-Plug' conversion and dodgy home-made breather can (cycling drinks bottle)  I've posted around this & another forum about my workshop, well, this is some of my workshop. theres a lot more in the way of tooling and machinery 'hidden' (think Buried' ) including another lathe, milling-machine, body-straightening dozer and 'god-knows-what' else in there....  and 'old-faithfull'. this mig set must be nearly 30 years old now, bought new & very much like triggers broom (same set but had a few umbilical / torches :rofl: ). I've also got a Camarc 'spool-gun' set for remote welding of steel & thicker aluminium but thats sorta under some junk at the moment) a few basic 'arc' sets and a small hf tig set. as to headshields, the 'posh' Speedglass (and airfed with the Adflow units) ones are in the photo but theres a few cheaper & older 'favourites' that get used for the dirty but fume-free work.  Hosting & posting has taken ages so I now need some time to recover Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 20, 2019 23:58:54 GMT
Okey, an update....... my, er, unit...... (sorry that they are seperate but imgur will not host a panoramic photo )    my t4 & mk2 golf, both 1.9tdi converted, once one of them has a bit of weld added I'm putting the '5 in to dry & have some fettling annoyingly, I painted the floor (red) less than 2 months ago and it's not stuck Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Mar 21, 2019 6:43:15 GMT
I once painted my garage floor the same as that, mine stuck, but only to the car tyres!!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 27, 2019 12:37:13 GMT
(lastnight) connected an Elloit tacometer to the car's loom, this was to test the engine's tacometer signal would trigger the tacometer (to many uses of tacometer??) so, success the car operated the new/old Elliot 0-10K tacometer so future bogde, sorry, I mean Modification is to adapt a spare dash cluster to accept the diferent guage, might even go for a 'real' oil-pressure and water temperature guage conversion as I've a few in the garage / mess / stash / hoarding  I know the bezel looks pink but i think it was red once all this because the Elliot has a 'tell-tale' recall function (see the switch used to test, will be a press-button), usefull to check on how the mrs. is driving  also, been playing with the flywheel ideas...... I bought an 'XTD® PROLITE RACING FLYWHEEL / 90-93 MIATA MX5 1.6L' from ebay USA, arrived within a week (from California) and looks to be worth the punt... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTD-PROLITE-RACING-FLYWHEEL-90-93-MIATA-MX5-1-6L/113674810327?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20190212102350%26meid%3D9156b7d9f56143639176f279fd48cd23%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D113564496173%26itm%3D113674810327&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985before anyone suggests that I should have purchased an 'xyz' 1.8 sized flywheel & clutch from 'xyz' I have reasons for the lightwieght 1.6 size setup..... I'm intending to use an AP Racing 7 1/4" (184mm) multiplate competion clutch setup so a 1.8 flywheel will not accept the smaller diameter clutch cover & plate (also would need a lot of 'spare' machined away so a waste of time, money & effort)  shows the flywheel with a clutch on top (not fitted yet as need to machine a 'step' on the flywheel to create the pressure-plates 'clamp'), a spare pressure-plate from the flywheel side, a 'paddle' plate and also a rusty 1.8 flywheel.  shows the flywheel's clutch face (before machining, annoyingly my 1950's era Kerry lathe is a little too small to swing this flywheel so I will have to pay someone else for the pleasure )  the engine side of the flywheel. when the flywheel was delivered it was painted / coated in a black finish of some kind, as I am intending to modify this I removed the 'paint' and this is why the surface finish looks scratched  as I've mentioned my lathe being to small to swing the flywheel, here she is  theres a 1.8 mazda crank between the centres for scale (and a pair of cams across the bed) not much progress to report... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 30, 2019 13:15:40 GMT
so, it fits (after some distruction inside the Mazda cluster backing)  incomplete 'trial' fit photo's, need to make the mount-plate & fix to the case as the Elliot revcounter is a bit taller than the available space  also need to decide on the adapting of the electricals as the mazda uses a 'membrane' type feed system on the cluster & the new guage( or guages if I do oil & water as well?) will need space made between the 'tracks' for the mount-studs & also power / trigger connections...  I'm using an early UK spec Mx5 dash cluster as it has less warning-lamps (lightwieght ) BUT has the rear foglamp illuminated icon so MOT friendly - my car Being a Eunos so made for the jdm market had no rear foglamp or 'tell-tale' on the dash when illuminated... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 8, 2019 0:06:09 GMT
More fiddlin..... been looking at loom simplification, luckily I have a spare front loom so it's laid out on the floor & considered.... must print a wiring-diagram & ecu pinout so I can trace the 'keepers'  the whole section (less the dashboard loom as that stays on the dashboard...)  the drivers side, note that the bulkhead grommet is mostly missing (just to the left of the 90* bend by the fusebox) so if I actually use this loom I'll have a bot of thinking to do - mil-spec bulkhead connectors maybe?)  the 'mid' section, the ecu plugs (2) are on the right, this is a pre '93 1.6L Eunos loom so there are slight diferences between this & UK spec as well as the '94 1.8L looms like the dashboard loom connectors! - ask me how I discovered this  passanger side..... I'm looking at trimming the engine / ecu wiring & aircon 'extras' as I will be buying a 'stand-alone' ecu & making a new loom (new wire, no old cracked insulation etc) and the ac stuff is redundant so I'll give it a 'Wheeeee-test' (throw it & see how far it gets ) I'm also thinking of running a heavier wire for a rad-fan system with a relay so theres no issues, probably something else but I cannot remember...... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 12, 2019 19:51:04 GMT
more fiddlin...... back to considering the twin mastercylinder / bias adjustable pedalbox.  a bulkhead-cut from a dead 1990 car used as the mule, a pair of dead girling cylinders fitted to show the idea...  from the pedal side, can see the mule pedalbox has been chopped to clear, this is not a final pedalbox just for test-build....  playing with another un-molested pedalbox, can see a pair of cylinders on a mount-plate with a 'ballance-bar' attached in the background. (sorry for the bad Iphone photos....) Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 17, 2019 23:22:07 GMT
so, today (well, yesterday) picked up an autobox for development purposes... well, they have a seperate bellhousing unlike mazda's manual gearboxes so *hopefully* this is a step closer to running a non-mazda (ford) gearbox........ possibly reasoning behind the ford gearbox? easier availability of competition clutch components at sensible prices. easier to get close-ratio gearkits (& many diferent ratio's). easy to maintain / rebuild. easy to convert to 'Quick-Release' from the bellhousing (4 bolts) I've built & re-built many. I have several standard donor boxes in the shed & ( used spares. I have a new Tran-x Straight-cut / close-ratio gearkit, heavy-duty selector-finger, new ford shafts / bearings etc in stock.  being diferent. because? anyway... another terrible iphone photo  interestingly, the mazda auto bellhousing is about* 7" from engine to gearbox face, same as the ford bellhousing that would fit the Type 9 gearbox BUT the flywheel / clutch / spiggot-bearings are closer to the engine in the ford setup so should allow for an adapter-plate.... hopefully.... some measuring / guessing / hopefull prayer to be done otherwise I'll weld the B astard Rich. * About = measured with a tape-measure (box of inches) without removing the bellhousing & not wearing reading glasses...... |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 18, 2019 19:08:47 GMT
went diggin in the shed, an empty T9 gearcase & tailhousing was found and placed on the auto-bellhousing for scientific purposes...  so now have an idea of the size (okey, I've already done some basic measuring so know I can make an adaptor-plate to link the bellhousing & gearcase)  placed a mazda 5 speed gearbox next to the ford one, bit of a size diference! so, to fit a ford gearbox on a mazda auto bellhousing, an adaptor plate of around 1/2" thickness between them (size needs to be fully asessed as the ford 4 cylinder input shaft has diferent spiggot-spline lengths compared to the mazda item, some thinking & measuroing to come...) also, the mazda gearbox is longer than the ford, once an adaptor-plate is added to the bellhousing theres still around 2" diference, luckily, theres a few options of 'cranked' quickshift gearsticks available for the ford gearbox so should still be around the 5's gearknob position. more to come... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 19, 2019 19:09:40 GMT
more lack-of-progress.... fitted the auto bellhousing on a spare 1.8 engine, this was to easily measure the hight of the flyheel's clutch-face from the bellhousing's gearbox face...  theres an engine in there somewhere..........  rediculously, the only ford input shaft I could find was the new Tran-x sccr item (half started box build, one-day project), photo shows it inserted into the spiggot-bearing with the clutch splines inline with the flywheel's friction-face.... can alos see that the bellhousing's gearbox face lines up with the input-bearing's snap-ring that positions the bearing in the gearcase. lines up perfectly BUT that means no room for an adaptor-plate. A rses. Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 19, 2019 19:18:06 GMT
so, next job, find the length of a ford v6 input shaft (the 4 & 6 cylinder engines that had the t9 gearbox used diferent length input shafts, v6 being longer...) then I should be able to design an adapter-plate Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Apr 20, 2019 0:00:42 GMT
luckily, theres a longer shaft available...  shows the extra length, enough to make the space for an adaptor plate, possibly the spiggot will need shortening, will measure the depth from the mazda flywheel to the crank. image borrowed from 3j Driveline www.3jdriveline.com/transmission/ford-type-9/Rich. |
|
Luckily I have a lathe (well, 2 & a milling-machine) so can sort the diference 
) and forget mix&match clutches 
)
also need to decide on the adapting of the electricals as the mazda uses a 'membrane' type feed system on the cluster & the new guage( or guages if I do oil & water as well?) will need space made between the 'tracks' for the mount-studs & also power / trigger connections...
le sigh