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Post by Zed. on Jun 15, 2019 17:24:21 GMT
Blocks of metal and nylons? Not a x dresser are you 😉 only those over a certain age will understand only on Thursdays  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 15, 2019 20:55:47 GMT
little more headwork...  can just about see where I've relieved the chamber wall to de-shroud the valve )used an old headgasket to mark the 'fire-ring's' position and measured tthe shrouding, then went digging in my Sykes Pickavant Valve Seat Cutters to get a suitably sized (5.9mm) mandrell & cutters to remove metal. will tidy / finish with the die-grinder & a carbide 'burr'.  another chamber shot, can see the de-shrouding relief and down the inlet port.  another full head / chamber shot.  down the nearly finished inlet manifold & port.  down the hole...... (top of port is at the bottom of the photo - sorry  more to come (exhaust side!) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 15, 2019 20:59:11 GMT
That’s a relief, on Wednesday’s call me Brenda...
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Post by Zed. on Jun 15, 2019 21:01:44 GMT
That’s a relief, on Wednesday’s call me dadBrenda...  Rich. anyway, it's just a jump to the left.......................  |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 16, 2019 14:55:19 GMT
okey, for my records, some better photo's (used mrs's phone)  trying to show the inlet tract (actually remembered to place a coloured card behind to help show the chamber's position)   tried to see fron the centre of the manifold face towards the valves, didn't quite work but I'm no photographer! I'm leaving the inlet as they are now, it's getting close to possibly breaking into the waterjacket & that would mean a scrap head   exhaust as currently modified, doesn't look like much has happened but theres a few hours already on them...  towards the valveseats...  from the chamber towards the manifold face  some more work on the short-radius behind the valveseat but not too much more to be done, then re-seat the valves and measure the chamber's capacity to help with determining the compression-ratio and then decide on the skim needed (once I decide on the cr I want to run...) and, sidetracked slightly, as I have read about using honda type 'R' 81mm diameter pistons for overbore & higher compression as they have 'intruder' crowns  Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Jun 16, 2019 17:25:16 GMT
You need some engineers marking fluid.
IE black permanent marker.
Is your scriber Thoriated ??
I have always found a split rod with emery paper is good for port finishing various lengths to suit, 150mm is good, file a flat on the side that the emery comes out so you do not have a lump when you wind it, used in electric drill.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 16, 2019 20:16:49 GMT
You need some engineers marking fluid. IE black permanent marker. Is your scriber Thoriated ?? ha. I've got marking fluid & ' blue' (but that's the ' Anti-christ" & gets everywhere so only used when needed!) as to my scriber, it * might* be made from tungsten but I've had it ~30 years since starting my apprentaceship so cannot remember the composition as to making a 'sanding-drum' mandrell, I've several & 40 / 60 / 80 grit emery tape but for headwork prefer 'flap-wheels' & carbide burrs in a 110v die-grinder as it's faster than a drill as well as having better bearings to handle side-loads I'm lucky as I've a well stocked workshop but consumables are sometimes an issue  also, my local university has a rolling-road dynometer, damper dynometer & flowbench amongst other tools, luckily for me as I'm a part-time student  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 17, 2019 11:43:56 GMT
another minor update... back to the throttlebodies... I've settled on Keihin itb's as fitted to Gen1 GSXR1300 Hayabusa as they are 50mm at the airfilter & 42mm at the manifold (with I believe, a 45mm throttle butterfly). unfortunately these arrived as plain tb's so theres the question of how to connect to the manifold / cylinderhead and airfilter. some reserch has discovered that the Hayabusa airbox contains 4 rubber intake trumpets that aso connect the tb's to the airbox case but they are 2 pairs of 2xshort & 2xtall trumpets, this would be great if I had 2 complete sets - 4xshort & 4xtall as I could experement with induction length to suit the engine's torque? BUT I do not motorcycle breakers (on ebay for example) want upwards of £60 for an airbox so that starts to get expensive & I didn't fancy the aluminium trumpets as available for aftermarket itb setups so reserch again... back to Suzuki's partsbin.... the smaller model GSXR's (750 srad) have the same 'short' trumpets as fitted to the Hayabusa but a full set of 4 so back to ebay & an airbox complete with the 4 trumpets & the thin jubilee-clips to secure to the throttlebodies was found locally & an offer of £15 was made and accapted   they fit   align properly next to source the correct rubber joiners to mount the tb's to the engine, I'm looking for proper Hayabusa items and will make adapters that will bolt to the Jenvey manifold but that's for another day...... EDIT.some Suzuki part numbers for reference & if anyone ever follows down the Hayabusa tb path.... Suzuki PIPE,INTAKE Part # 13111-24F00 - intake pipe between throttle body & cylinderhead - Gen1 Hayabusa use 4.
Suzuki TUBE,OUTLET Part # 13881-33E50 - 'Short' aircleaner 'trumpet' - Gen1 Hayabusa use 2 & 1998/99 GSXR750 (MODEL W/X) use 4.
Suzuki TUBE,OUTLET Part # 13881-24F00 - 'long' aircleaner 'trumpet' - Gen1 Hayabusa only (2 used in the bike)
Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 17, 2019 17:35:12 GMT
also discovered that mk1 & mk2 steering colums differ..... back to the drawing-board for the eps conversion Rich. |
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gbuk
Chats A Bit
Posts: 130 
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Post by gbuk on Jun 17, 2019 18:45:04 GMT
Keep up the good work!!
See if we can bump it over to the next page soon, the photo's are getting slow to load on this page and keep scrolling up.
Is it possible to reverse the order on this site so the latest post is at the top?
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Post by Zed. on Jun 20, 2019 9:08:58 GMT
Is it possible to reverse the order on this site so the latest post is at the top? F ucknose Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 20, 2019 9:12:04 GMT
anyway.... had another fiddle with the EPS, think I've sorted the top / steeringwheel spline end & mounting the corsa eps motor to the Mazda dashboard crossbrace, the lower connection towards the bulkhead is taking some consideration..... I'm confident it will work..... OR end in tears! Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 20, 2019 13:21:49 GMT
so this happened.....  the 184mm diameter clutch plates I'd ordered for the multiplate clutch arrived  they were made to order by Helix Autosport helixautosport.com/ and their race clutch catndog helixautosport.com/catalogues/201901-RacingClutches.pdfbought through their distributor MARDI GRAS MOTORSPORT www.mardigras.co.uk/Helix184org.htmlso, next job (on the clutch) is to machine the flywheel to accept the clutch pressure plate.  as you can seen the flywheel needs to be machined with a step to allow the clutch to clamp properly, I have 2 options here as; 1, machine the flywheel & use. 2, machine a 'sacrificial' wear surface & machine the flywheel to accept this. for example, Sachs make exactly this item www.sachsperformance.com/en/racing-clutch/sachs-rcs/rcs184/clutch-adapter-plate-003021999525  number 1 is easy but eventually the clutch surface will wear & heat-harden so time for a replacement flywheel (more likely if using a lightwieght flywheel & ceremetalic 'paddle' clutch plates) and number 2 is more costly (both time, effort & money) but the flywheel should live a long time but I'm lazy so will see what happens in a fortnight when I've got the time-slot to use a lathe that's large enough to spin a flywheel as my lathes are sadly too small more waffling to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 21, 2019 21:15:35 GMT
back to flywheel mods, I'd decided to make a flange to fit in a lathe chuck that I can bolt the flywheel to (& also the spare flywheels I have as it would be rude to not lighten them ) I'd bought a dead 1.8 engine & gearbox a few months ago for the purpose of removing the crankshaft & chopping the flywheel-flange (with the rear-main bearing journal) off to use as the adapter, today I remembered.... 9" angle-grinder vs. crankshaft... 9" angle-grinder - 1. crankshaft -nill   after a little lathe time to clean up the 'cut' edge, interestingly (to me anyway!) the crankshaft is a Steel so this upholds the legend about their strength and that they are almost bomb-proof  insert fitted (it fits!)  I will use all 6 bolts when I machine the new profile.  shows the 'A'ring from an AP Racing multiplate clutch, this will be used to 'test' the machining although I shouldn't be able to mess-up when working on dimensions....... hopefully more to come... Rich. |
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Crumpets
Chats A Bit
Insert witty remark here...
Posts: 227
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Post by Crumpets on Jun 22, 2019 18:28:06 GMT
Top work once again. You're a wizard.
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT