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Post by Zed. on Jun 22, 2019 23:17:46 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Jun 23, 2019 19:26:18 GMT
more waffle............... so, I'm getting nearer to properly starting on Projekt Multiplate-Clutch, one of the things with a multiplate setup is the movement needed to release can be far less than a normal roadcar clutch so I'm looking into this (the hard way  ) I'm interested in using a concentric slave-cylinder in place of the standard Mazda design of an external cylinder with a pivoted 'fork' - partly to play with cylinder-ratio's & partly as the increased spring-pressure of the race pressure-plate could result in a collapsed 'fork' so a few reasons to fiddle.... another consideration was the thickness of the multiplate cover assembly on the flywheel & it's intrusion into the gearbox's bellhousing -Possibly more of an issue on a standard 5 speed gearbox than a bellhousing-conversion? will see.... anyway, pistol-drill & hole-saw. 1. old 'spare gerabox bellhousing. Nill   and from the engine side....  I'll get some petrol in the morning to clean the casting as it's full of horrible clutch dust & gear-oil gack! then I'll tidy up the cut edge & remove shatp edges. now I can 'dummy-assemble' the clutch & flywheel on my spare engine & see the space & interaction around the gearbox's input shaft & release bearing area before trial fitting a concentric release cylinder setup (need to machine the flywheel first, one week to wait before I have access to a larger lathe & make some swarf  also been fiddlin with spare rear hubs & driveshafts, have a pair from a 1990 car & a pair from a 2003 car, both have the hubnuts still on (but the previous owner of the 2003 setup tried to remove the driveshaft nuts with an anglegrinder & slitting-disc  so think the shafts & flanges are doomed!) not much else to report..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 24, 2019 22:45:42 GMT
done some 'fiddlin earlier....  got some rear hubs to dismantle, a pair from a 2003 car (want the driveshafts for my car when the 4.778 diff gets fitted, will clean / de-rust & new bearings while I'm at it)  I know the rear hubnuts can be a challenge to loosen, the guy I got these from tried gutting one off with an angle-gringder & slitting disc! Animal I gripped the driveshaft in my vice & with a 24" breaker-bar & 32mm socket undid the remains (was it loosened by the cutting OR just luck?) now the shaft is solid in the driveflange splines........ more plusgas..... attacked the other side hubnut, this was left undamaged / uncut & was being a tit, tightened my benchvice a bit& the shaft was slipping! tightened a little more & still slipping, then a bit of tube on the vice's lever..... *faint* 'ODD' noise.....  BUGGER. got a few vices, will have to sort this tomorow.......  also a pair from the orange 1990 car I stripped last year, I want to remove the lower wishbones but they are playing hard to get....  loads of plusgas over the next few days... also been measuring the EPS project, looking at making a 'dummy' shaft (welding a few bits of Mx5 & Corsa column togther to prove the fitment) & if it works, getting a real one made  more to come... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 25, 2019 17:00:03 GMT
more waffle..... today I cleaned the cut bellhousing / gearcase, front-cover & input-shaft for the clutch dummy-build. used 2L of cheapest petrol with several old paintbrushes in an old army cook-pan (2' diameter! great parts-washer  ) as the bellhousing was full of old engine & gear oil containing the lovely fibres of a goomed clutch  once this was disposed of I did a 'dummy-build' to make sure everything looked like it was worth the effort   I'm going to strip th input shaft out & clean the clutch-splines as they are rusty, one thing I may have to do is shorten the release-bearing's guide tube slightly to clear the multiplate cover &/or the clutch disc's splined boss depending on the thickness from the flywheel - I have done some rough measurements BUT know all about the old saying measure once......
 for a giggle, I palced the gearcase on a spare 1.6 engine block, obviously theres no flywheel but it gives the idea of it's intended use more to come in the future.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 25, 2019 22:42:32 GMT
more waffle... found the origonal metal inlet manifold earlier so decided to fit it to the cylinder head / inlet manifold to see how much larger the port is from standard (I have a good guess...)  number2 cylinder runner. the dark / black section is the metal gasket showing proud so as thats larger than the origonal port profile I've taken nearly 3mm all round away! (I've measured so know its nearly that much!)  iirc, this is number 1 but they all look similar, intrestimgly (to me) tha lower laft shows a slight bias from the cutting action - probably due to the amount of time I held the die-grinder on my right hand side the work I did with it to my left showed up as top-right bias! maybe I'll ballance this slightly but I think I've taken enough metal from this head I'm still amazed with the manifold / port missmatch, the manifold was secondhand & had been used for competition so must have cost some hp or hindered performance due to the step in the airstream Rich. (bored of headwork!) |
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Post by dickie on Jun 26, 2019 17:36:16 GMT
Hi Zed,
I see you are having fun with the gearbox.
Do you want some more pics of my conversion to concentric ?
I have found a few more on my phone.
I made up my own clutch hose using Goodridge 600 parts to suit, hose goes into bellhousing through the clutch lever bellows.
The cylinder ratio on my set up works fine using the standard master cylinder, I have a single plate Helix Group N set up ( Plate and cover made to order )
Cheers Dickie
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Post by Zed. on Jun 26, 2019 22:07:30 GMT
Hi Zed, I see you are having fun with the gearbox. Do you want some more pics of my conversion to concentric ? I have found a few more on my phone. I made up my own clutch hose using Goodridge 600 parts to suit, hose goes into bellhousing through the clutch lever bellows. The cylinder ratio on my set up works fine using the standard master cylinder, I have a single plate Helix Group N set up ( Plate and cover made to order ) Cheers Dickie all info is good info anyway, more waffle.....  in the stash I've had a pair of Quartermaster / Superclutch concentric release cylinders  these are diferent to most as they are 'floating' so the inner section of the cylinder stays stationary & the outer housing moves with hydraulic pressure I cannot decide if I like this system as it relies on flexi-pipework inside the bellhousing for the cylinder to move - something that can get damaged but is not visable!  theres a stack of 'bevelle' washers (conical-spring shaped) to use as the spacer to set the installed hight (see my previous posts re. the cut bellhousing ) and some locating 'pins' that would be used to stop the cylinder spinning with the clutch!  Cylinders retracted  Cylinder extended (left one) www.quartermasterusa.com/product/721-series-hydraulic-street-release-bearing-flat-face-for-10-5-larger-clutches not a chheap item! luckily they came in a job-lot so probably worked out at a good price.... although I might use a 'normal' roadcar cylinder like dickie has (seems to be an easy answer to the question & an example of 'K.I.S.S' (except I think I need a rounded-face release bearing not flat ) anyway, more waffle to follow.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 1, 2019 20:28:46 GMT
had a little more time 'fiddlin earlier, decided to try parting a driveshaft from a flange..... hammer 0. flange & shaft 1. so, out comes the Sykes hydro-pullers.....  Will not bloody fit the flange   try the '2Legged' aproach..... didn't shift it.... so, decided that this was a draw (for the night) I;ve left the puller with pressure on the shaft / flange & will have a looksee tomorow - seems that a week of plusgas didn't help! also (& luckily) as I snapped my bench vice, I've bolted my pipe-grip vice to the bench, comes in handy for holding round stuff like driveshafts....... more to come & hopefully with good news with the shaft(s) & wishbone bolts AND.... I know that the workshop is a tip! Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 2, 2019 22:12:06 GMT
So, I've called it a strategic retreat on the driveshaft/driveflange vs. puller battle as it's not moved! a rses... will make a decent puller-plate & attack it with a vengance..........  fiddlin in the workshop I 'found my m20 taps, been waiting to trip over them since I bought a new m20 threaded Mocal remote oilfilter adapter (type that replaces the oilfilter on the engine to connect pipes for a remote oilfilter mount &/or oilcooler) that was 3/4"unf threaded  so, into the lathe with the Mocal casting & then re-tapped the thread larger by about 1mm*    now I need to get some hydro-pipes & an oilfilter mount to have good filter access, something Mazda weren't bothered with! also tripped over a new / old capilary type temperature guage, been considering fitting one for a while but hadn't got to those boxes yet.... will investigate fitting into the standard dash cluster & where it can go on the engine or rad hose?  not much else to report..... Rich. * joke about the diference in size between 3/4"unf & M20 |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 6, 2019 14:45:45 GMT
so, more thinkin but no doin...... found some reasonably priced throttlebody-cylinderhead joiner-rubbers to fit the Hayabusa TB's, £31.30 posted for a set (4) so that makes fitting to the jenvey manifold easier, I will design & make some adapter-flanges once these land as I have no dimensions yet  also bought a Vauxhall concentric clutch slave cylinder (unknown use, Vectra maybe?) to play with, thanks to ebay £10 + post, was cheap enough to try...  now waiting for its arival.... this cylinder has a single feed/bleed port so I'm thinking of fitting a 'tee' piece & running seperate feed & bleed pipes bit it may not be an issue (depending on its stroke as it could self-bleed?) as this is all a possible not definate I'd decided to go diggin in scrap piles at a friends garage BUT he's not done any clutches for a while so no old slave cylinders to measure & play with... - hence the huge outlay of £13.95 another cylinder I've been looking at is from a Ford Mundane-o etc as this has a feed & bleed port design, but the cheapest option sometimes is the better option anyway, not much else to report (so far...) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 6, 2019 15:21:33 GMT
also, out for a drive lastnight & I heard a thudding from the passanger front... when I eventually stopped (~10 miles later - it was obviously NOT life-threatening ) I had a looksee....  so, that bit of filler in the wing is somewhere else now suppose the car is also lighter now? guess I've no excuses for not painting & fitting the new wing that was supplied to me by the previous owner when I bought the car only 18 months later so no time like some time wonder how many of the bolts will snap? (lower rear into the sill definately...) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 6, 2019 21:21:43 GMT
A rivnut does a good job replacing the sheared bolt in the lower wing mount 😉
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Post by Zed. on Jul 6, 2019 22:33:30 GMT
yup, just hassle battling a snapped bolt I'll probably weld another bolt (or nut maybe) on top of the existing bottom / sill fastener to get some heat into it, this hopefully will loosen everything - as the previous owner filled the sills with old engine oil it'll probably catch fire also, just bought (ebay again) a pair of mk2 front upper balljoints as I believe the mk2 hubs will not accept mk1 top balljoints?? will make a pair of the best top wishbones and press the balljoints in ready for the mk2 front crossmember / rack & hubs swap Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 8, 2019 19:42:33 GMT
so....... the Suzuki throttlebody to cylinderhead adapter rubber thinggies have arived I went for these over the traditional TB-fix of silicone tube as: 1. they fit the throttlebodies. 2. they are shaped to accept the transition from round to the 'odd' shape of the injector pocket and then blend to a ~44mm diameter. 3. they should not slip off the TB's (Or let air in) as they are new OEM items. 4. because I thought they's answer a few future problem questions (see 1-3 above?)  the combined but un-spaced rack of tb's.   shows their shape.   the rubber 'rampipe', also handy to fit an airfilter base to as have a groove as used on the GSXR's.   down the throat.... so. the engine side of the rubbers are ~49mm internal diameter where they fit a Hayabusa cylinderhead, I'm going to make adapters 50mm outside diameter / 44mm internal with a flange to mount to the jenvey inlet manifold's DCOE flange pattern (still un-decided as to single units or as pairs like the DCOE carbs ) more waffle to follow..... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 9, 2019 20:03:53 GMT
more faffin..... been diggin in the shead again, tripped over some 50mm od exhaust pipe, this has a ~46mm id so I tried some in one of the throttlebody rubber adapters...     trial on the pipe, @ 6" it's probably great for torque BUT a little excessive!  down it's throat, apologies for the bad miss-match but was sorta holding it in a 'sorta' position   the engine side through the pipe towards the tb, can see the injector's 'pocket' in the tb & rubber adapter... anyway, need to get some pipe next & cut some flanges from steel bar-stock (was intending to use alluminium but i'll prove the system with steel & maybe make a few diferent lengths to try on the dyno....) Rich. |
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awell-known mk2 Escort with a BDG 2L engine and another with a Millington Diamond engine & sequential box (both owned by the same man with his granddaughter driving the 'historic' spec. BDA car!) 
and some 'proper' Mini's - a few with the infamous KAD 16v cylinderhead conversion on the 'A' series basis and a few '8' port headded ones 
)
) as the bellhousing was full of old engine & gear oil containing the lovely fibres of a goomed clutch 
le sigh