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Post by fellows on Jul 18, 2018 12:34:51 GMT
In terms of the original problem, I've been reading up a little about adjusting the preload on the rack, so when I get a chance to try that I'll report back...
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Post by Whistler on Jul 18, 2018 14:51:36 GMT
In terms of the original problem, I've been reading up a little about adjusting the preload on the rack, so when I get a chance to try that I'll report back... That's the only adjustment on the rack itself, so its definitely worth a shot before buying a new one.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 18, 2018 17:19:10 GMT
Pics, people, pics!!
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Jul 18, 2018 19:13:58 GMT
I ran a depowered rack for a while - it was 'OK' - when rolling it wasn't annoyingly heavy, but at times it's heaviness would surprise you, eg. when tanking up to a large roundabout, gently turn in to the left then pull right to apex the roundabout and 'ooohbuggerthatsheavierthanIexpected', cut back left exit the roundabout and 'oofIwasexpectingitthattiimebutitsstillalotofeffort'... I swapped to a manual rack which is better for road use IMHO, although slightly lower geared so more turns for tight corners on a track...
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Post by lowender on Jul 18, 2018 21:45:17 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Jul 18, 2018 22:21:12 GMT
When playing with steering racks, make sure everything is tight... this was earlier today, a Volvo 940 Turbo (so big car thats not slow) previously someone replaced the ns track-rod but might have forgotten to tighten it? Pirates & cowboys everywhere Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 18, 2018 22:23:48 GMT
imjr is a Canoe...
Rich.
Mod edit: Please don’t try and dodge the swear filter. Thanks.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 18, 2018 22:26:57 GMT
Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 19, 2018 10:48:12 GMT
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Post by lowender on Jul 19, 2018 16:32:39 GMT
Yeah that Big Nut is the locking nut for the smaller central nut, which winds pressure onto the spring that acts on the yoke thingy, which bears on the rack. The subsequent pics on that thread show it coming apart.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 19, 2018 17:11:10 GMT
Yeah that Big Nut is the locking nut for the smaller central nut, which winds pressure onto the spring that acts on the yoke thingy, which bears on the rack. The subsequent pics on that thread show it coming apart.
Awesome, thank you for the confirmation
So you have to undo the big nut to adjust the smaller nut, then re-tighten?
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Post by lowender on Jul 19, 2018 18:14:57 GMT
Correct. There's a narrow sweet spot that takes a bit of time to find - too slack and it will knock, too tight and it'll be stiff.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 19, 2018 20:06:29 GMT
Cheers for the info!
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Post by fellows on Jul 24, 2018 8:49:06 GMT
Just in case anyone is going to try this, I thought I would post my experience.
I looked up the guides online, which say tighten the adjustment screw to about 4.6Nm. This actually felt too tight even as I was doing it, so I ended up doing it by feel (though the guides are for adjusting a rack on the bench, not still attached to the car - plus are probably not for a rack with 200+km on it!).
While the front of the car was in the air I tightened the screw until I couldn't detect any play at all when turning the wheel; and by tightened, I mean barely tight. Its a very fine adjustment. Even so, when I next drove the car, the wheel didn't really self-centre. Too tight - so much for my engineers feel!
I then marked the screw position and then backed it off approx 45deg and drove the car round the block with the lock nut undone. The steering felt normal but with some play. I then tightened the screw a little, maybe 10deg, (I can reach under my car with a spanner and adjust without lifting the car) and repeated. I kept doing laps of the block until I just felt the steering stiffen and become fractionally less inclined to return to centre. Then I backed the screw off a tiny fraction and locked the retaining nut up.
This may not be a very proffessional way of doing it, but I figure on a rather worn rack such as mine, it should do the job.
Hopefully that is useful to someone!
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Post by baconsarnie on Jul 28, 2018 20:39:56 GMT
Good work, method sounds fine!
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