|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 1, 2019 23:15:36 GMT
November 2018 To do list: - fit new alternator to 1.8 with 1.6 bracket (may need modifying) enlarge wiring loom ring terminal - transfer over oil pressure sensor - transfer water temp switch & water gauge switch to back of engine (remove the three wire sensr) - replace flexible fuel lines on 1.8 (as this is a mk2 not a 2.5 they are both push fit rather than fancy connectors) - I have decided to take another look at the crank oil seal at the crankshaft end and if it looks OK I will leave replacing it. I've heard horror stories of new ones being fitted slightly wrong and starting a new oil leak. Interestingly I have spoken to two MX5 specialists now and they both said to leave well alone if it's not leaking. When I removed the flywheel there was no sign of oil on the back of it or on the crankcase. - figure out a way of blanking off the exhaust side of the EGR pipe (I have already fitted the EGR blanking plates to the engine side) - refit lightened flywheel, clutch & bearing - fit new release bearing & arm, bolt up new 6 speed box to engine & fit starter motor - rewire CAS wires to 1.8 cam sensor & crank sensor - I'm keeping the 1.8 coilpack but will need to sort out the plugs between looms - 1.8 TPS also being kept, may need to transfer plugs - Fuel rail, as this is a '99 UK spec engine it still uses a return fuel system (unlike the US mk2 Miatas from 99 or the UK VVT engines which use a returnless system) so I should in theory be able to keep the mk2 fuel rail intact. - keep the 1.8 engine mounts, fit with the upgraded mazda competition mounts I have on the shelf - remove charcoal canister, I'm reliably informed you can re-use the two wires for it to power the VICS system which is nearby it in the engine bay - Fit an ME221 & vacuum pipe (with modified resistors) to control it all :-) Still debating whether to fit an AEM wideband as it's not FI and intend to have the car set up properly on a rolling road. Another piece of the jigsaw, a 1.8 NA alternator with a ribbed pulley so it fits the mk2 engine  |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 1, 2019 23:22:41 GMT
November 2018 Took the opportunity today to tidy up the subframe that was thick in oil, then treated some surface rust on it. Now the rest of the engine bay looks dirty I'm going to have to clean that too! Also found and treated some surface rust underneath the brake resevoir where it looks like there's been a spillage at some point.  Started working on the new engine today, changed over the water sensors, removed the small core plug from back of the block for one of them, then tried to replace the mk2 oil pressure sensor with the larger 'real' mk1 sensor only to find that the OEM knock sensor was in the way. A quick bit of research has assured me that it seems safe to just remove it from the engine as the NA didn't have one anyway...  (Knock sensor is the one at the top with the thick black wire coming from it) Also spent a while playing with the coilpacks and the brackets. I decided to keep the 1.6 coilpacks if I can to minimise any changes to the car's loom. At first I did some alterations with a grinder and made up a quick alloy bracket to fit the 1.6 coils into the 1.8 bracket. This didn't give me enough clearance away from the block so I then though I'd try using the 1.6 bracket and making up some funny shaped adaptors to fit it. The 1.6 NA bracket bolts to the head, whereas the 1.8 NB top bolts direct to the rocker cover. 1st attempt with NA coils in NB bracket  Second attempt with adaptors to make NA bracket fit NB engine    Much happier with this approach, looks more factory even if I did waste a chunk of time doing it twice  My last job today was to take a look at the Flywheel oil seal, it looks pretty dry round there, a bit grubby on the block in places but no oil around the seal so I'm thinking leave well alone  |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 1, 2019 23:24:15 GMT
December 2018 Some interesting questions over what seems like slightly different fuel hose sizes when I removed the inlet manifold it confirmed that the 1.8 UK NB cars did in fact run a return on the fuel rail which is good news. However my plan to re-use the 1.6 NA injector harness has changed due to the fact that the 1.6 injector plugs crumbled when I took them off the old car! So I'm now stripping the NB injector harness back to modify with the NA 1.6 loom plug. Both the NA & NB MX5's fires it's plugs in a wasted spark configuration and only has three wires across the four injectors (one wire is common) which means the same signal to squirt petrol into the cylinder goes to (4+2) then (3+1) Whereas the NB loom has five wires (one common) so I need to wire them up to mimic the 1.6 sequence. It's strange that the injectors fire in a different sequence to the plugs as one of the fuel injections goes into a closed intake valve, but apparently that's by design so it's ready to be drawn in later in the 4-stroke sequence. It's explained quite well here:  And an update on the flywheel oil seal, when I looked inside the gearbox bellhousing from the 1.8 car it's full of oil  so my supposition that the oil seal was good is now only a 50/50 chance that it was the crank oil seal or the gearbox oil seal. So it looks like i will be changing it after all. |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 1, 2019 23:29:35 GMT
December 2018 More progress this weekend, replaced the flywheel oil seal with the help of a new seal removal tool    Fitted the newly lightened flywheel & clutch with my makeshift centring tool :-)  I'm a big fan of my new flywheel locking tool   Trial fitted the newly bought mk1 1.8 alternator and bracket  Swapped over the electronic speedo sensor for a 4.1 manual one, also swapped the reverse light bullet connectors on the box  Fitted a new Cam cover seal, and swapped over the nice chrome cover bolts from the old 1.6 engine, fitted the CAS sensor to the exhaust cam and extended the wiring by 6" or so  And fitted the gearbox...  Just need to fit the new engine mounts, then waiting for a replacement injection loom (my connectors snapped getting them off), some 5/16 fuel injection fuel hose, and a inlet manifold gasket on back order from MX5parts. |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 6, 2019 20:41:32 GMT
Well it's in! after a day of swearing and scraped knuckles. Can't figure out the clutch line brackets but I suspect that's something to do with the fact I now have a 6-speed and the shape is slightly different of the bellhousing. I've decided to simplify things and fit a Goodrich direct braided line from master cylinder to slave - cutting out all the hard line, fixings etc. Also ordered the ME221 which will keep me busy for a few more evenings!  |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Jan 19, 2019 19:42:12 GMT
After much fighting with a grinder & dremmel I eventually managed to get the nut off the rear hub, once it was off the driveshaft just pushed out !  Just a little scratch to buff out on the mating surface so not too bad.  3.9 Torsen diff and new propshaft fitted today, 1.8 driveshafts are next  |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Mar 17, 2019 19:18:12 GMT
The downpipe issue was resolved by using an OEM manifold and aftermarket downpipe. Everything is in now including the ME221 and thanks to Dai at Valley5s it's up and running via remote diagnostics. A few teething issues with both the IACV (which I will be replacing) and the wiring & settings for the TPS, but so far it runs enough for me to get it set up professionally at a rolling road. Taken for a couple of short drives to test everything up to temperature and initial impressions are: - 6-speed box is fantastic, like a knife through butter and much slicker than my old 5speed, maybe I had a knackered old 5 speed but don't believe everything people say about the 5speeds being better! - You can definitely notice the LSD kicking in on tight junctions, the car shoots forward without spinning it's inner rear wheel - The 1.8 engine is great, seems like the old 1.6 but just with a lot more grunt! (not used WOT until it gets set up properly but even with half throttle it's a lot more rapid than the 1.6 - Engine seems just as revvy as the old 1.6 which I put down to the lightened flywheel perhaps. Just need to source a new/good used IACV and get it setup properly at the end of the month   |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Mar 17, 2019 19:58:21 GMT
- The 1.8 engine is great, seems like the old 1.6 but just with a lot more grunt! (not used WOT until it gets set up properly but even with half throttle it's a lot more rapid than the 1.6 a 6 speed & 3.9 diff will have a lower ratio (in first gear) than a 5 speed & 4.3 diff so pulling off from a standstill might feel slightly more brisk  www.flyinmiata.com/tech/gearing.php if you want to look at speeds / gearing / tyres - okey, I understand that the 1.8 should be more powerfull and have 200cc's more torque than the origonal 1.6 and this will also help  Rich. (still unsure if I keep the 1.6 or go 1.8  ) |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Mar 18, 2019 7:54:20 GMT
Rich if your 1.6 is Ok then personally I'd keep it, If you changed to a 6speed and 3.9 diff for example I think just gives you more of what you already have, and you can do things like install an ME221, change cams, remove the restrictive flapper AFM etc. and get a tune to get more out of it. My car's old engine was both burning and leaking oil heavily so I had to replace it, so I thought why not? there's a lot of unforeseen costs in moving to a different platform such as all the exhaust bits, silly little connectors, alternator, belts, a decent crossover pipe, more sensors, new clutch, bearings, miscellaneous bolts, wiring & fastenings that you thought you had, but are slightly different so there's a lot of £15 here and £20 there purchases. But it's your choice  |
|
|
|
Post by carl4x4 on Mar 30, 2019 21:53:25 GMT
Working my way through the teething problems slowly, I've made my own mechanical speedo drive sender as per the instructions here: forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=266427 And hopefully found the slight problem with changing direction on the motorway (left when off power, right when on) as all four tyres seemed to be at different pressures  (especially the fronts!) Now I need the new manifold to turn up so I can get rid of the blowing exhaust. |
|
Tom
Chats A Bit
Posts: 218 
|
Post by Tom on Mar 31, 2019 22:04:32 GMT
Enjoyed reading through this. Car looks really nice and clean, and build seems thorough in all the right places.
|
|
Crumpets
Chats A Bit
Insert witty remark here...
Posts: 227
|
Post by Crumpets on Apr 6, 2019 9:41:17 GMT
Great read - Keep up the good work!
|
|
so my supposition that the oil seal was good is now only a 50/50 chance that it was the crank oil seal or the gearbox oil seal. So it looks like i will be changing it after all. 
)
(especially the fronts!) Now I need the new manifold to turn up so I can get rid of the blowing exhaust.
le sigh