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Post by boggissimo on Feb 6, 2021 14:22:49 GMT
Have you tried winding the HSDs out of the bottom cups? Yep, I wound them out until they came out, that's how I knew I didn't have more leeway! Thought that was the only way to gain ride height on them? |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 6, 2021 17:08:10 GMT
Have you tried winding the HSDs out of the bottom cups? Yep, I wound them out until they came out, that's how I knew I didn't have more leeway! Thought that was the only way to gain ride height on them? Yep, that’s it. Sorry to ask a dumb question, you’ve checked there’s no pre-load on the springs? I must admit that I’ve sold on my HSDs because of the lack of rear damper travel but that shouldn’t affect ride height. Might be worth a call to an HSD stockist to see if they can suggest a fix? |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 6, 2021 17:28:37 GMT
Yep, I wound them out until they came out, that's how I knew I didn't have more leeway! Thought that was the only way to gain ride height on them? Yep, that’s it. Sorry to ask a dumb question, you’ve checked there’s no pre-load on the springs? I must admit that I’ve sold on my HSDs because of the lack of rear damper travel but that shouldn’t affect ride height. Might be worth a call to an HSD stockist to see if they can suggest a fix? are the lower threadded / bushing housungs different lengths front & rear? if so, are the longest @ front or rear? I'm just guessing NOT actually knowing anything about these dampers... Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 7, 2021 13:04:18 GMT
The longest are at the front.
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 8, 2021 10:52:40 GMT
Yep, I wound them out until they came out, that's how I knew I didn't have more leeway! Thought that was the only way to gain ride height on them? Yep, that’s it. Sorry to ask a dumb question, you’ve checked there’s no pre-load on the springs? I must admit that I’ve sold on my HSDs because of the lack of rear damper travel but that shouldn’t affect ride height. Might be worth a call to an HSD stockist to see if they can suggest a fix? I haven't checked preload, no, was thinking about ride height which that wouldn't affect, but of course it might make them a bit softer/provide more travel.
The Eunos is sitting outside at the moment while I do some brake stuff on the Subaru but will check it out when I swap them round again.
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Post by boggissimo on Apr 12, 2021 12:58:23 GMT
I've got a geezer in to sort my rusty rear arches. He's cut out the rusty bits and is getting ready to weld in the new metal. Says the previous repair job was pretty good, and the rust doesn't go too far along/inside so it should be pretty straightforward.   With any luck the other side won't be any worse and it'll all be sorted by the end of the week. I got the repair panels for the lower section from eBay, here |
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Post by noobie on Apr 12, 2021 16:34:56 GMT
While you have someone working on it, best check the front of the wheel tubs too. Rust will hide under failing underseal. They tend to go earlier than the outer arches (haven't seen any with rotten arches that didn't have rotten wheelwells too). Easy fix if you have a welder on hand.
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Post by boggissimo on Apr 12, 2021 19:09:50 GMT
While you have someone working on it, best check the front of the wheel tubs too. Rust will hide under failing underseal. They tend to go earlier than the outer arches (haven't seen any with rotten arches that didn't have rotten wheelwells too). Easy fix if you have a welder on hand. Thanks, whereabouts exactly do you mean? He's had a good poke around, and the car had been repaired while in a previous ownership so that may have already been done, but I'd like to be sure... |
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Post by noobie on Apr 13, 2021 7:21:45 GMT
 Particularly the area around the middle arrow (not the arch, but the sill end plate/inner wheel tub) .There is a seam that runs there that loves to rust and the wheel supplies that area with ample crud and moisture. I would take a drill with a large softish wire brush to that area and clean off all the underseal. It has either already dried/cracked/failed or will soon. Check if any more welding is required, then re-apply fresh gravitex and a coat of wax each year. |
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Post by boggissimo on Apr 13, 2021 8:17:53 GMT
Particularly the area around the middle arrow (not the arch, but the sill end plate/inner wheel tub) .There is a seam that runs there that loves to rust and the wheel supplies that area with ample crud and moisture. I would take a drill with a large softish wire brush to that area and clean off all the underseal. It has either already dried/cracked/failed or will soon. Check if any more welding is required, then re-apply fresh gravitex and a coat of wax each year. Thanks! Yep we've checked that area out on the driver's side and it is sound at the moment. He's doing the other side today so will be sure to check that too. |
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Post by boggissimo on May 12, 2021 15:35:52 GMT
Rust repairs were finished a couple of weeks ago, the passenger side was less bad on the outer skin but had gone worse inside the wheel arch itself.   I've since chucked some rattle can paint and lacquer over them and they now look better than the rest of the paintwork! |
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Post by boggissimo on May 12, 2021 15:38:09 GMT
A couple of pics from Debden sprint on 9 May, courtesy of the HCAAC club photographer:   |
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Post by boggissimo on Jun 29, 2021 8:44:13 GMT
Some pics from the MCC John Aley Trial, 26 June: I had a couple of spare wheels on the boot rack for full rally mode:  Another Mk1 was also in the same class, much more original than mine (and we did lower the average age of competitors quite a bit  :  Lunch stop at Davidstow airfield on Bodmin Moor:  Waiting for the last section at Bluehills near Perranporth:  |
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Post by boggissimo on Jul 1, 2021 19:03:37 GMT
I'm pondering more power! At the moment my NA 1.6 is totally stock, and I'd probably like to stay naturally aspirated, so looking at ITBs. There's a set of Mikuni carbs and all the gizmos apart from ECU on Facebook at the mo for £650, and full kits are more like £2K. But is it worth it? Maybe get 25% more power than stock?
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Post by Zed. on Jul 1, 2021 21:03:04 GMT
 There's a set of Mikuni carbs and all the gizmos apart from ECU on Facebook at the mo for £650  There's a set of Mikuni carbs hummm...  I'd avoid carbs like the plague, especially old mikuni's as they'll need rebuilding at best and finding a dyno operator that has jets etc. in stock to setup will be fun. if you're capable, get some Throttlebodies from a Triumph Daytona 600 & adapt a standard Mazda inlet manifold (cheaply done) and read Bilbo's thread re. assembly  mighty5s.com/post/44396/threadRich.
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:
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT