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Post by fellows on Dec 17, 2020 11:53:43 GMT
Hi all, does anyone have a recommendation for a place that can do corner weighting and a geo setup? I'm based in Hertfordshire...
I have used Wheels in Motion in the past and am happy with their work but as far a I'm aware they don't do corner weighting...
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Post by wannabe on Dec 17, 2020 12:53:50 GMT
Check out Mark Fish Motorsport, just outside Harlow - he's not cheap (!!) but he's been racing for years and does know his stuff, by all accounts. markfish.co.uk/workshop-services/
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jon
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Post by jon on Dec 17, 2020 15:54:56 GMT
Guess this is related to the ride height thread?
If it's anything less than a racetrack only beast, I'd adjust so that the ride heights are reasonably even with the weight of the driver sat in it, with the recommended rake / difference in front to back heights. Corner weighting is going to cost you a fair few quid and not really gain your anything noticeable...
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Post by fellows on Dec 17, 2020 17:02:47 GMT
Cheers for the feedback.
That's right, that was my thought. It is definitely not a track only beast. More road only...! My issue is trying to adjust ride height in any way accurately given there are no reliable datums on the car (wheel arch to wheel centre, sill to ground etc all have a lot of variability). But maybe corner weighting is a step too far.
Do you happen to know what the recommended rake for a NA is at all?
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jon
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Post by jon on Dec 17, 2020 17:13:23 GMT
It's not a massive amount, maybe 1/2" or so - I have the 'recommended' figures somewhere on my other laptop, I'll try and dig them out...
Most of the figures use height from the pinch welds to ground...
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Post by fellows on Dec 17, 2020 17:17:35 GMT
It's not a massive amount, maybe 1/2" or so - I have the 'recommended' figures somewhere on my other laptop, I'll try and dig them out... Most of the figures use height from the pinch welds to ground... If you could that would be much appreciated, thanks.
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jon
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Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Dec 17, 2020 17:44:41 GMT
supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx5.00 ~ 5.5" front pinch weld height .06 ~ .18" rake, rear higher The street settings are probably a good starting point... The settings I have are from performance5 for their shocks, and I have a feeling they are for hub -> wheelarch. I'll try and find them later...
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Post by fellows on Dec 17, 2020 17:53:11 GMT
Cheers for that
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Post by Zed. on Dec 17, 2020 18:55:05 GMT
supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx5.00 ~ 5.5" front pinch weld height .06 ~ .18" rake, rear higher The street settings are probably a good starting point... The settings I have are from performance5 for their shocks, and I have a feeling they are for hub -> wheelarch. I'll try and find them later... is that rake worth bothering? think my car's @ 1/2" higher rear Rich.
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Post by batou on Dec 17, 2020 19:24:53 GMT
How even is your alignment on each axle? It might not make a huge difference but if you have more camber on one side to the other that might make a difference. Mine was a bit like this until I got it aligned (Finishline UK in Gravely, Hertfordshire). supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx5.00 ~ 5.5" front pinch weld height .06 ~ .18" rake, rear higher The street settings are probably a good starting point... The settings I have are from performance5 for their shocks, and I have a feeling they are for hub -> wheelarch. I'll try and find them later... is that rake worth bothering? think my car's @ 1/2" higher rear Rich. That page is where I got the idea for my geo settings, I'm somewhere between the street/dual duty geo. But your right, 5mm looks like absolutely nothing at all...
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Post by lowender on Dec 17, 2020 21:07:55 GMT
supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx5.00 ~ 5.5" front pinch weld height .06 ~ .18" rake, rear higher The street settings are probably a good starting point... The settings I have are from performance5 for their shocks, and I have a feeling they are for hub -> wheelarch. I'll try and find them later... I'm pretty sure Phil's P5 figures were 320mm front, 330mm rear (centre of wheel to wheel arch). That's what my Sportdrives were set to, and I now have the same with the Ohlins.
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Post by Zed. on Dec 18, 2020 10:01:32 GMT
I'm pretty sure Phil's P5 figures were 320mm front, 330mm rear (centre of wheel to wheel arch). That's what my Sportdrives were set to, and I now have the same with the Ohlins. curiosity got me so out with the box if inches, my car is on ~300f & ~310r (Ohlins) although I've the older spec. Ohlins with spring only adjustment so it's preload related hight adjustment I'm actually thinking of raising the car slightly but thats another story..... Rich.
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Post by noobie on Dec 18, 2020 11:05:32 GMT
I'm pretty sure Phil's P5 figures were 320mm front, 330mm rear (centre of wheel to wheel arch). That's what my Sportdrives were set to, and I now have the same with the Ohlins. curiosity got me so out with the box if inches, my car is on ~300f & ~310r (Ohlins) although I've the older spec. Ohlins with spring only adjustment so it's preload related hight adjustment I'm actually thinking of raising the car slightly but thats another story..... Rich. How much stroke do the Ohlins give in the rear? They're supposed to be notorious for that (less than 10cm), so might be that you don't have much more options than setting them mid stroke. Regarding rake: I've found it makes a rather big difference. The higher you go with the rears, the looser the car becomes. Given the piss poor spring rate splits on popular shock setups I'd advise against adding any rake to the car. Just set the car up with roughly horizontal LCA's en take measurements at the subframe near the pivot points.
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Post by batou on Dec 18, 2020 11:26:11 GMT
I'm pretty sure Phil's P5 figures were 320mm front, 330mm rear (centre of wheel to wheel arch). That's what my Sportdrives were set to, and I now have the same with the Ohlins. curiosity got me so out with the box if inches, my car is on ~300f & ~310r (Ohlins) although I've the older spec. Ohlins with spring only adjustment so it's preload related hight adjustment I'm actually thinking of raising the car slightly but thats another story..... Rich. 305f and 310r here (Tein FZ). ~4.00" from the pinch welds front, and ~4.25" rear pinch welds to ground, I'm on 185/60R14s as seen in the post further up. Thats interesting on the old spec Ohlines, when I was researching coilovers and looked at Ohlins, it was a lot of money to risk and end up being disappointed as from what I had seen the ride height I'm at it would probably have them on the rear bumpstops, they seem to be lacking travel in the rear when lowered. Not the only example I came across, but this is an NA with 185/60R14s and set to, what are apparently, the Ohlins recommened settings (Basically stock?? LOL) on the new versions: This is 4.5" from the rear pinch welds, which apparently basically left the rear riding on bump stops... And this was the compromise... Not that I was going to ever going down the slammed/stance route, I'm sure they are absolutely great dampers but what is the point in height adjustablity if they don't go any lower than the non adjustable Bilsteins I had, call me shallow but for £2k+ I want to see a difference as well as feel it .
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Post by lowender on Dec 18, 2020 12:51:24 GMT
My LCAs are parallel, the car drives beautifully even on the roughest of roads. Don't really care what the ride height looks like, I bought the car to drive it, not look at it . I didn't pay anything like £2k+ for the Ohlins, even though they were brand new. Current list price is c.£1800 inc VAT I believe, I paid £1400, worth every penny to me. Springs are 8kg front, 6kg rear, car weighs 950kg. Wheels are 15x7, tyres are 195/50 15. I'm not saying this is the ultimate setup for everyone, but it works very well for me. On 14x7 wheels, 195/60 14 tyres:
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