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Post by mrwhippy on Aug 27, 2021 23:02:31 GMT
Hi everyone.
Just saying Hi - Bought my first "5" today, a 19 plate ND RF 2.0. Straight in at the deep (and expensive) end !
I'm a long term car nut of all types - past history includes Mk2 escort, Fiat 126, 1978 VW panel van, 1966 VW split screen camper, 1966 VW beetle (still own), Nova VW based kitcar, Honda JZR trike, Smart roadster, Mk2 Mini cooper s clubman. - and others......
Anyway, always liked MX5's but there was never space in the garage or cash available until recently, but I saw the RF ND and fell in love with the shape, that was the final clincher in the deal. Had to treat myself.
So I've just parted with what is (to me) WAY more money than I've ever paid for a car in my life, and bagged a cracking low miles 2019 ND RF 2L in machine grey. Had a 3 hour drive back home with it, just starting to get the feel of it, absolutely no regrets so far.
And I'm also an incurable tinkerer and spanner wielder so it won't be long before I'm getting busy with it.
Initial thoughts -
Air filter - All my cars get treated to K&N's at some point, but are there any actual proven power gains going for an "induction system" over a straight paper filter to K&N direct replacement in the stock airbox on these cars ? If it's just for engine bay looks / bling credentials then I'm not interested, if it's dyno proven HP figures, I'm listening. Noise maker pipework - Had this on my mini coop S - plenty of people saying deleting the noise maker on these cars also improves the throttle response (mind you they are turbo engines). Did it on mine and tend to agree. Any other known benefits of deleting it on the ND's ? Rustproofing - Initial inspection doesn't reveal much in the way of waxoyl / dinitrol etc, but I will have a closer look tomorrow. Given the amount of cash I've just spent then this is high on my list, car will be a keeper. Spent too much time and got too many burns welding up old classics.
Will probably raise the above topics on separate threads in the near future though...
Cheers - Dave.
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Post by Horney on Aug 27, 2021 23:09:51 GMT
Welcome Dave! There's a few of us who have also recently jumped into NDs so you're in good company. Air Filter - I suspect only a decent kit will give any actual gains, somethingliek the Skuzzle Torque intake Noise Pipe - Seen a few people have deleted this but not sure of the reason why, I like the noise int he cabin. Rustproofing - It's a Mazda, it'll need doing. Heard good things about Krown and it's who I plan to take mine to www.facebook.com/krownuk/
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Post by mrwhippy on Aug 27, 2021 23:35:19 GMT
Cheers Horney, thanks for your comments.
I will probably give it a few weeks as it is then just temp blank off the nose maker for a trial - and see what I think. I can then either re-connect it or delete it. Just seems odd to me that a manufacturer who is supposedly reducing weight at every turn would add something just to increase engine sound in the cabin when they could have reduced soundproofing elsewhere instead and saved a little more weight ? Just saying....
Rustproofing - I need to get under the thing and have a proper look. I have compressor, spray gear etc.. I live close to the coast as well which isn't going to help although I am happy to garage the 5 when the weather is lousy.
Had a quick browse through a few of the MX5 forums, this one seemed most appropriate, so signed up here first. I'm a great believer in the power of shared information, so more power to your elbow....
Dave.
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Post by AndyMk2 on Aug 28, 2021 9:38:07 GMT
Just seems odd to me that a manufacturer who is supposedly reducing weight at every turn would add something just to increase engine sound in the cabin when they could have reduced soundproofing elsewhere instead and saved a little more weight 1.bp.blogspot.com/-pZy-ZIi5RIU/VXB-gCW7yTI/AAAAAAAAI4w/8p2DF5kNXC4/s640/induction2.pngIt wasn't standard fit on all models Dave, remember the RF was marketed as more of the luxury/premium model in the range so has more equipment than a basic Roaster model. I'd leave it and enjoy the tuned frequencies, somebody in Japan spent ages getting it just right
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Post by wannabe on Aug 28, 2021 9:55:02 GMT
Just seems odd to me that a manufacturer who is supposedly reducing weight at every turn would add something just to increase engine sound in the cabin when they could have reduced soundproofing elsewhere instead and saved a little more weight 1.bp.blogspot.com/-pZy-ZIi5RIU/VXB-gCW7yTI/AAAAAAAAI4w/8p2DF5kNXC4/s640/induction2.pngIt wasn't standard fit on all models Dave, remember the RF was marketed as more of the luxury/premium model in the range so has more equipment than a basic Roaster model. I'd leave it and enjoy the tuned frequencies, somebody in Japan spent ages getting it just right It might well have been related to drive-by noise regulations - pipe it into the cabin instead of blare it out the back! Will look forward to some pictures of the current and past collection if you are happy to do so
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Post by Dweenimus on Aug 28, 2021 16:25:38 GMT
Welcome fellow ND owner!
I've looked up a fair bit on power mods and I wouldn't bother upgrading to a K&N. Best bang for buck seems to be a remap or take it to BBR!
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Post by mrwhippy on Aug 28, 2021 17:19:31 GMT
Thanks all.
First job's going to be the rustproofing. Need to get some oily stuff on the underside and injected in all the cavities. It's as dry as a bone underneath. I've done this on other cars so I know the basics, but any specific areas I should be looking at ?
Dave.
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Post by mrwhippy on Oct 10, 2021 19:48:19 GMT
Well rustproofing now done with Dinitrol.
Used 2 rattle cans of Dinitrol ML (the thin stuff) to do inside the doors, the sills, seams around the edges of the bonnet and boot, inside the A pillars, and all cavities around and inside the opening for the RF roof (stopped at halfway open). Put plenty in and let it drip out of the drain holes. Got the wand attachment for the difficult to reach sections. Surprised by just how much one rattle can covers. Also the dinitrol is much easier to work with than Waxoyl that I have used in the past. Had lots of problems with the waxoyl clogging up during spraying, hardly any with the dinitrol.
Used 2 rattle cans and one shutz gun can of Dinitrol 3125 (thicker stuff) to inside all the wheel arches (with liners removed first), the sills and underbody. Thinned out the stuff in the shutz can 50-50 with white spirit. And bought some ACF-50 for around the engine bay and suspension components.
That was done about 2 weeks ago, a horrible mucky job, the smell is about 90% gone now but I'm happy I shouldn't have any major corrosion issues to look forward to for quite some time.
I looked at some induction kits but not impressed as none of them have a dedicated cold air feed like the stock airbox does. They're all going to get heated from the engine and hot air that has been through the radiator first. Guessing what little you may gain in flow you would likely loose in reduced air density. Have just put a K&N in the stock airbox.
Decided to keep the noise maker gizmo.
Next things bothering me are the stock exhaust (would like it a bit louder really, but not silly loud though) - and the stock mild steel tailpipes let it down in the looks department too IMHO, Need to go stainless at some point I think.
And after seeing photos of mucky intake ports I will be fitting a catch can - I have personally had much hassle cleaning the intake ports on my Mini - don't want to have that awaiting me somewhere down the line on the ND...
And that huge whip antenna just has to go - it does spoil the lines of the car I reckon.... Will post a separate thread for that.
Cheers - Dave.
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Post by wannabe on Oct 10, 2021 20:05:38 GMT
Good work! You must have doubled the weight! lol Make sure that the drain holes don't get blocked up - could be worth running something through them once in a while in case the anti-rust stuff is creeping downwards and blocking them up over time.
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