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Post by wannabe on Aug 31, 2022 1:25:21 GMT
Awesome progress
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Post by boggissimo on Aug 31, 2022 9:32:17 GMT
Great work so far Bilbo - an old Cavalier is not what I would have gone for, but it looks like you'll make it much more interesting than it ever was!
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 1, 2022 22:26:09 GMT
Awesome progress Cheers, I'll get there with it, a lot more to do yet. Great work so far Bilbo - an old Cavalier is not what I would have gone for, but it looks like you'll make it much more interesting than it ever was! Cheers mate. I agree, a strange choice for sure, but super uncommon these days and not incredibly sought after so I managed to pick it up for a good price. It's basically a Manta B with a bit of a different look anyway, so I guess that's kind of cool if nothing else haha.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 8, 2022 23:20:15 GMT
So, got back from Italy on Tuesday and started cracking on with the car again. Naples is awesome, also went to Sorrento, Ischia, and Pompeii. Ischia was absolutely stunning, and the food everywhere we went was incredible. Highly recommend. Anyway, the Cavalier. I really wanted to just get the remaining welding out of the way so started poking and cutting the chassis rail and ended up with this: The inner skin here was discoloured as you can see, but it was actually just the rusted outer skin that was sort of stuck to it. When I cleaned it back it was still perfectly solid, so I patched the outer up: Seam sealed and sprayed with underseal to protect it (I sprayed weld thru primer on the exposed inner skin before welding): Then made a start on the rest of the chassis rail, near the subframe mounting point. I started poking at the 2 areas where the outer skin was blown out and the holes steadily grew as I cut out more rust: The inner skin was gone a bit in some areas. Kept cutting back until I got to clean metal, the inner and outer skin immediately surrounding the subframe mounting point was still solid on both sides, which was a relief as I really didn't want to have to take the entire subframe out to rebuild it. Got the inner all sorted and welded a new outer skin on, as you can see it grew in size a bit from the photo above: Got the section on the left cut out and welded up as well, then seam sealed and undersealed, again everything behind the repair was all coated in weld thru primer: Also got the front left protected, it looks much better now it is in black: I'll be taking the driver's front wing off tomorrow, I noticed a rust hole in a similar place to the repairs I had to do on the passenger side, so that will need addressing, plus the back side of the wing itself is a bit rusty, so I want to treat it, and see what I can do about the hole in the wing behind where the front bumper mounts. So just that and the driver's rear sill to sort for now and that is all of the immediate holes that need to be sorted. Good progress, but I really want to start on getting the engine fitted, once it's sat in the bay it will all feel a bit more real. Lots of stuff completed, but from the outside the car doesn't look all that different yet haha.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 11, 2022 20:15:25 GMT
Picked up the bits I didn't take when I bought the car this weekend. Got the left hand side put back together now that I had the chrome sill cover. Gave it a polish up with some metal polish and it came up alright. Gave the inside of the front wing a wire brush and rust convertered and undersealed it. There's a small hole in it right at the front but I'll deal with that in the future. Apart from the rear shock and spring the left hand side is done now, and it looks a little bit more like a car: I took the driver's wing off and gave a few bits a prod with the screwdriver. Some welding will be needed but nowhere near as much as the passenger side. Also gave the engine another test fit now the manifold and heater are out the way. Got a much better idea of what is needed, and I've decided after talking to my fabricator mate that notching the subframe will be the best idea to get the engine to fit. It won't take much to get it in there. I want to keep a balance between pushing it back in the bay and also keeping room for a brake booster/clutch master. Speaking of which I think I've decided to use the entire MX-5 pedal box setup, the Cavalier setup, even if I get a clutch pedal, was a cable clutch anyway. The firewall around there doesn't really have much room, so I'm planning on cutting out the firewall where everything came through before, and flat plating it, giving a blank template to cut out to fit the 5 pedals. Should be fairly straightforward.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 18, 2022 0:19:12 GMT
So, was back at work this week so not as much time to spend on the Vauxhall but progress still being made. Took a look at the front bumper I picked up from the previous owner. Needs some metal polish and the outer side will clean up fine. The inside of the bumper was a bit rusty. gave it a good wire brush and it was all basically just surface rust, no holes or other issues. The mount points are all good. So I gave it a good coat of Hydrate80 and then got it painted to protect it: Came out pretty well I think. Been thinking about the fuel tank for a bit, so I finally bothered to pull the original tank out and have a proper look at it. My plan was to maybe fit the MX-5 fuel pump assembly into the top of the original tank, but there isn't a flat surface large enough to accommodate it, and the angle the pump assembly sits at it would contact the inside of the tank without modification. Seemed more effort than it was worth. So I bought a mk2.5 MX-5 fuel tank on Ebay for 30 odd quid. My pump assembly will obviously go straight into this with no modification as it's the right tank for it. Meaning I can now retain the original OE returnless fuel system, with just 1 fuel line going to the engine bay. The 5 tank is a totally different shape of course, so I put it into the boot in roughly the same place as the original to get an idea for mounting. There are 4 main attachment points on the tank, 1 on each corner. The front ones will be easy, I'll just use a bolt and spreader through the floor above the diff. I'll likely have the bolt facing up into the car if there isn't much room between the axle and the floor. Not the best photo but you can see one of the attachment points here, it's butted up directly onto the hump in the floor, so this should be fairly easy to sort. The rear of the tank is going to be a little more involved as it is raised a few inches off the boot floor when I mocked it up nice and level: Looks a little awkward here, but we have a load of box section laying around the unit, so I'm going to chisel off the old underseal/insultation stuff and weld a bracket into the floor for the 2 rear attachment points, and bolt the tank directly to that. All fairly straightforward. You can see the fuel filter and the original fuel boot exit point on the left. I'll work out the best placement for it, and then I'll make up a bracket for the filter, and run some rubber lines from the tank down to it. I'll be making an entirely new fuel line to go to the engine bay, as the original is very old, and there's no point even trying to use it, it shouldn't be too difficult to make up a new one. The filler on the 5 tank is on the correct side in this configuration, so I'll make up a pipe to go to the petrol cap, it looks like it'll be fairly simple to do. The tank breather I will just run into the bung at the bottom of the spare wheel well. The whole tank assembly I will be able to cover with the original tank rubber plate thing with some minor modification, and there is still a decent amount of boot available. The tank will sit far forward enough to not be an issue in the event of a rear end collision. I really need to get around to doing the driver's side suspension bits. The front right is looking very dodgy right now: This photo is taken directly above the wheel. Quite a lot of camber going on, I think something may have broken down behind there haha. The wheel, even with the nuts tight, also has a bit of a nasty wobble when moved at 12 and 6, so I have bought new front wheel bearings to do on both sides. I have all the other parts to rebuild this side, so I'll get that sorted in the next week. Obviously no update is complete without more rust work, so here is the inner wing/front of the sill on the driver's side after I removed the front wing and started prodding at and cutting out the rust spots: A bit of rot, but honestly not that bad at all, and fairly simple to sort. Lopped the front off of my full sill section and started with rebuilding the front of the sill and the areas above it. The jacking point and floor above it are actually decent on this side, so far less work was required than on the passenger side. Got it all cut out, inner all cleaned up and sprayed, and welded the new bits on. Went pretty well: Then I cut out the 2 holes on the inner wing back to good metal, made up a couple of plates and got them welded in. Front corner is looking much better now with it all seam sealed, primed, and painted: Good progress, and I am so close on the rust work now. Just the rear sill on this side left to do, and a couple of minor little holes here and there, and then it is done for now! Hoping to have the front subframe notched in the next couple of weeks so we can actually try and get the engine in. Have also secured a set of JBW Minilights from a mate, a fairly decent size compared to the original 5j wheels, so they should fill the big arches quite nicely without needing to roll or touch the arches in any way. I'm planning on running a really large sidewall tyre, 70 profile, to give it a proper retro look. So much left to do, but one job at a time, getting there.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 19, 2022 23:08:47 GMT
So I got on with the driver's rear sill today. As I said previously this side was nowhere near as far gone as the passenger sill, but still a bit of work was needed. With the chrome sill cover off I did some poking, and there was a fair amount of very soft metal, which resulted in this: That whole area there was little of the outer worth bothering to save, so I got the entire affected section cut out. The rear sill wall wasn't too bad at all after a bit of wire wheeling, so I got all the rust removed and gave the inner a good coat of weld thru primer. To be honest I got a bit ahead of myself with the primer, as you can see some bits still needed sorting on the rear wall, so I buzzed some of the primer back off and got the lower edge sorted, and welded up the inner plate before mocking up the outer sill skin. All went pretty well, the full sill panel for this side came in really handy and the part I cut off fit really quite well. I got it all welded up: As you can see the arch edge had rusted away on the left hand side, so I got the affected area all cut back and welded up, and gave the sill welds a light seam seal which I will paint over this week. This entire repair is basically covered by the chrome sill plate and the chrome arch edging, but I wanted to get it all solid rather than bodge it. Not a 100% pretty repair, but I think this repair came out better than the passenger side, and I'm quite happy with how it looks. I just need to rebuild the rear arch wall at the back of the sill, just a small square to weld up as the old metal there was gone. Should have that done in the next couple of days. Got a couple of bits of welding left here and there, but all the major points are now done: Nearside rear sill Offside rear sill Nearside front inner wing and sill end Nearside front jacking point Offside front inner wing and sill end Offside front chassis rail Offside centre chassis rail Various floorpan patches Quite happy with the amount completed in a short time, just want to get to the fun stuff like getting the engine in soon. Booking my friend's time for the subframe notching hopefully this weekend, so hopefully we will have the engine in place very soon.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 22, 2022 13:11:55 GMT
Picked up the new wheels last night off a mate. A set of JBW Superlites, 13x7 ET-7. Have seen these on a mk1 Cavalier and I think they look good, and should fit with no arch modification. A set of 185/70/13s on these will suit the car I reckon. Here's the car I found with them on. They look to be the same in terms of dish, though I can't tell from the photo if they are JBW, or perhaps some Compomotives etc. Can't find any more information on this car, if anyone knows who's it was, let me know. I'd like to ask if the wheels were the same size as mine.
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Post by zoona on Sept 22, 2022 14:56:36 GMT
Can you stop please. I now want a mk1 cavalier.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 22, 2022 15:05:46 GMT
Can you stop please. I now want a mk1 cavalier. Hahaha, seeing as I have been told by people that know them that this was considered to be in good condition, I'm not sure that you do 😂 But if you really do, I hope you like welding burns and orange dust in the air constantly 😂
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 23, 2022 0:35:42 GMT
So I got over to the unit this evening to test fit the Superlites. Can't wait to get tyres on them: They are going to fit perfectly. It'll be very close to the arch, but I think they should go on with no arch rolling required, which is what I want. These arches are in good condition, and I don't want to disturb them haha. I got a little impatient about tyres, and just wanted to fit a single tyre to one of them to get an idea of what they will look like. had a bit of a mare with the tyres on the tyre machine, so a mate gave me a hand and we (sort of) got one fitted. It's a 165 R13, so a little more stretch than I will actually have on my planned tyre size, but we got a basic idea. Those of you with good eyesite can probably see the issue straight away haha. As I said we only sort of got a tyre fitted, and this is why: Now keep in mind these tyres are very very old, hard, and deteriorating. Managed to get the tyre off the Vauxhall wheel without much hassle, but the bead was so stiff that it just wouldn't go onto the Superlites without wanting to tear. So I tore a bead a bit on one tyre, then my mate gave another of them a go, and it was much the same. Anyway he persevered and got it onto the wheel. Any of you who have ever tried to fit a stretched tyre to a wheel will know that it can be a right pain to do it normally. So we resorted straight away to the good old hairspray fire method. Usually works a treat. Well it did work this time, just a little too well. As the hairspray ignited and beaded the tyre the pressure literally blew the entire side of the tyre apart. The bang as all the pressure escaped was absolutely mental, the wheel went about a foot in the air, and it blew the tub of tyre soap over and ripped the label off of it hahaha. Our ears were ringing, I was stood about 8 feet away, poor guy was right next to the tyre when it happened. He almost had a heart attack hahaha. After about 3 seconds of shock we were absolutely p*ssing ourselves, never seen a tyre do that and we've done it loads of times. Lesson learned: Don't use fire to mount a tyre that is probably close to 30 years old haha. Anyway, mounting this tyre gave me an idea of what might fit. I reckon a 185/70 tyre will be bang on and give enough arch clearance, but we will see when I actually get hold of some, preferably some new tyres that won't try to kill us.
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Post by boggissimo on Sept 23, 2022 7:57:29 GMT
Brilliant, had me spitting my virtual coffee over the keyboard this morning! Talking of incongruous things to use in the garage, I think I'll be using bread to get the pilot bearing out of my flywheel tomorrow...
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 23, 2022 8:41:23 GMT
Brilliant, had me spitting my virtual coffee over the keyboard this morning! Talking of incongruous things to use in the garage, I think I'll be using bread to get the pilot bearing out of my flywheel tomorrow... Haha, I wish I had filmed it. Ah yeah, the bread trick, it's weird that it works, but it really does work quite well!
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Post by dadbif on Sept 23, 2022 20:57:07 GMT
Bread is good for soldering copper pipes when you can’t turn the water off…. amazing stuff.
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Post by Bilbo on Sept 24, 2022 23:53:20 GMT
Bread is good for soldering copper pipes when you can’t turn the water off…. amazing stuff. Tastes good too. Well maybe not using it to stuff copper pipes, I heard that's how they make bread sticks.
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