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Post by onepaintedman on May 2, 2016 6:46:10 GMT
Sooooo. . .I've finallly got my car to run 'almost' properly (NA6CE, Jackson Racing Supercharger, Reverant MS2, Innovate Lc-2 wideband) but have a problem I don't know how to fix.
When warmed up the car idles 'smoothly' at between 980-1020 rpm. However, when I am out driving and I pull up to a junction and depress the clutch the revs drop right down to around 200rpm and the car stalls. If I dance around on the pedals and catch it to drop the revs dropping so quickly I can stop the revs dropping so low and get it to settle at the 1000rpm idle again.
What can I change in settings to stop this happening? Or do I need to adjust something physical i.e. idle screw or something.
I'm still learning tuner studio so find all of this a challenge!
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Post by onepaintedman on Nov 30, 2016 19:44:04 GMT
Still need help with this! Anyone?
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Post by Horney on Nov 30, 2016 20:24:12 GMT
No idea I'm afraid. Idle problems are always a sod.
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Dec 1, 2016 2:41:28 GMT
I'd guess it's something to do with the clutch switch... but not sure how that would affect things. Sorry!
ETA: what happens at idle when you push the clutch in? Does it only happen when coming to a stop ie on overrun? If it's the latter, I haven't used TunerStudio in ages but there must be some overrun settings to fiddle with that will get the IACV letting a little more air in?
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Post by martiny on Dec 6, 2016 13:44:12 GMT
Dashpot adder.
That's the setting which MS uses to stop idle dropping too far when you lift off. The closed loop idle settings don't kick in instantly so Dashpot Adder is a setting which increases the idle air valve opening by some amount when you lift off. Increase it a little until the idle when you pull up rests just a little bit higher than you want and then after a few seconds closed loop idle will kick in and the idle will settle to its expected rpm.
<edit to add> The best setting for Dashpot Adder seems to vary a lot from car to car but, just for the record, my setting is about 3.5%. That might be way to much for some, others might find a little more is needed.
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Post by martiny on Dec 6, 2016 14:00:25 GMT
PS There are other IAC valve settings that might help you get this perfect. This mostly copied from an old post I put on Nutz: I believe its default setting is to go to "last value" which is the stored PWM value (IAC valve position) it settled on last time the car was idling. That can give odd results while the car's warming up because the last value might be considerably different from the value needed when the engine's heated through. I prefer to use "Use Initial Value Table" instead, which means it'll pick a value from the "Closed-Loop Idle Initial Values" table.
You can choose whether that table shows Target RPM vs MAT or Target RPM vs CLT. I found MAT worked best for me. You can populate the table with sensible PWM values straight away if you have a few datalogs of normal driving which include periods of idling. Just go through the datalogs to find a few points where the car was idling at some particular rpm and MAT value, note down the PWM values there, and then you can plug into the Initial Value table PWM figures which are just a little higher than that: it's best to start a little high to catch the revs from dropping too low and then let the revs settle down as closed loop idle kicks in.
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 6, 2016 14:42:19 GMT
Whereabouts are you? I go to a chap called Jools at Kitsandclassics in Chesterfield for MS (Emerald, OMex & MBE too) mapping, he really really knows what he's on about.
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Post by onepaintedman on Dec 6, 2016 18:26:12 GMT
Dashpot adder. That's the setting which MS uses to stop idle dropping too far when you lift off. The closed loop idle settings don't kick in instantly so Dashpot Adder is a setting which increases the idle air valve opening by some amount when you lift off. Increase it a little until the idle when you pull up rests just a little bit higher than you want and then after a few seconds closed loop idle will kick in and the idle will settle to its expected rpm. <edit to add> The best setting for Dashpot Adder seems to vary a lot from car to car but, just for the record, my setting is about 3.5%. That might be way to much for some, others might find a little more is needed. I had played with the dashpot and decay settings hoping that would help but it seems to have made jack all difference unfortunately. Dashpot is currently set at 9%. |
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Post by onepaintedman on Dec 6, 2016 18:26:56 GMT
Whereabouts are you? I go to a chap called Jools at Kitsandclassics in Chesterfield for MS (Emerald, OMex & MBE too) mapping, he really really knows what he's on about. Down South in Bucks unfortunately. |
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Post by onepaintedman on Dec 6, 2016 18:29:17 GMT
PS There are other IAC valve settings that might help you get this perfect. This mostly copied from an old post I put on Nutz: I believe its default setting is to go to "last value" which is the stored PWM value (IAC valve position) it settled on last time the car was idling. That can give odd results while the car's warming up because the last value might be considerably different from the value needed when the engine's heated through. I prefer to use "Use Initial Value Table" instead, which means it'll pick a value from the "Closed-Loop Idle Initial Values" table. You can choose whether that table shows Target RPM vs MAT or Target RPM vs CLT. I found MAT worked best for me. You can populate the table with sensible PWM values straight away if you have a few datalogs of normal driving which include periods of idling. Just go through the datalogs to find a few points where the car was idling at some particular rpm and MAT value, note down the PWM values there, and then you can plug into the Initial Value table PWM figures which are just a little higher than that: it's best to start a little high to catch the revs from dropping too low and then let the revs settle down as closed loop idle kicks in. Thanks - will have a fiddle this weekend and see if I can get this to work. |
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le sigh