Post by titch on Jul 10, 2016 19:42:48 GMT
OK, so the time has come to sell up, and move on. I absolutely adore the car, the noise is intoxicating, the extra power is just enough to bring it to life on track without being overpowering, and I like to think i’ve found the sweet spot for the handling - it’s so easy to just jump in and look like a hero - but now it’s just a weekend car, I want to move on to something a little quicker, where the extra running costs aren’t such an issue, and the chance to own a car that ticks all the boxes for me has just come up, space dictates it’s one or the other, otherwise the Mazda wouldn’t be going anywhere for a very long time…
First off, it has been used on track, that I won't deny, but it has always been warmed before being driven hard, and it's been cared for accordingly. Videos of it on track can be seen here: www.youtube.com/user/titchster
Build thread can be found here: www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=147927
1.8 UK car (1998)
103,000 miles
MOT - May 2017
Engine
152bhp/120lb/ft with fuelling mapped by myself, ignition and cam timing haven’t really been played with, with a professional taking the time to set these up properly, I have absolutely no doubts that considerably more could easily be achieved (I did have every intention of booking it in for this doing very soon, however this opportunity has come up quicker than expected). Has only ever been run on Shell V Power in my ownership, much to friends dismay, at times... Having to hunt for a Shell garage can sometimes be a bit long winded.
-Mk2 BP4W head from a JDM RS model - 40 thou (~1mm) skim to up compression, ports slightly fettled and polished, valve seats recut, and then reassembled with new seals/gaskets etc
-Blox adjustable cam pulleys
-Bogg Brothers inlet manifold with GSXR ITBs
-Maruha exhaust manifold - Arguably one of the (if not, THE) best.
-Unknown brand stainless cat back - It came from a car that was imported with it fitted, so it’s from Japan, I just don't know whether it's custom, or off the shelf.
-Brand new catalytic convertor - Not a Mazda part, but a very large Mercedes part - as most MX5 guys know, the late mk1 MX5 had a completely different exhaust setup to earlier models, and so when replacing the exhaust, it can be a pain mixing and matching aftermarket parts (which are generally for earlier cars with shorter cats) to the later parts, so when I fitted the manifold, the standard cat wouldn’t fit, and I had this adapted to suit. With a suitable map, the car WILL (and did, before I then changed the map) pass emissions legitimately.
-Megasquirt 2 - Built by Reverent/MSLabs
-AEM UEGO wideband
-Aftermarket oil cooler - Oil temps never go above 100c on track.
-Kia 4.6 final drive - Much shorter gearing for improved acceleration.
-Ashcroft LSD
-Maruha speedo drive - To correct the speedo reading changed by the final drive, it’s the shortest speedo drive Maruha provide, however the speedo still over reads by 10%
-Custom made oil catch can
Chassis
-Jass brake stopper
-ATE super blue fluid
-Braided brake hoses
-Harddog M2 roll bar
-MeisterR Zeta R coilovers - Perfectly usable on the road, especially if the damping is turned right down.
-15x7 ET27 Work Emotion CR Kai - 195/50/15 Nankang NS2R with plenty of tread left.
-P5 Sportdrive frame rails - Fitting these made one of the most noticeable difference at reducing shakes and rattles over bumps on the road.
Exterior
-Garage Vary style lip
-Jass tow eyes
-Wipac crystal headlights
-Hardtop (headlining and heated rear screen)
Interior
-D1 Spec quick release steering boss
-Sparco 383 330mm steering wheel
-Sparco Rev seat
-Sparco 6 point harness
-TR Lane harness bar
-NC gear knob
-Autogauge oil temp gauge & AEM wideband gauge mounted in centre dash vents
-Custom DIN blank
-Cupholders (the important bit!)
Bad points
Yes, it has some…
- The engine has an oil leak, it’s enough to leave a few drips on the floor overnight, I’m not entirely sure where it’s coming from - all I know is it’s the head - I thought it was the cam seals after the head had been rebuilt, and they were replaced, however, it’s still there, so either the replacement (genuine Mazda) seals are also leaking or it’s the rocker cover, I really can’t see where else it might be.
- Rust. There’s a spot bubbling beneath the paint on the drivers side front wing, and the drivers rear arch has some on the lip. The sills however, appear completely solid - the car has seen very little winter use since they were repaired a few years back, and the use of a hardtop stops any chance of water building up in them, reducing the likelihood of them going anytime soon.
- Cold starts. It struggles to start from stone cold - if it’s been stood overnight, for example - I put this down to the cold start mapping personally, and just put up with it (anyone who’s done any kind of mapping will tell you that you only get one or two attempts at proper cold starts a day).
- Filtration. Due to the length of the inlet tract, there’s not enough room to fit velocity stacks or filters on the ITBs. There’s a number of choices; Cut down the inlet (which was my plan). Fabricate/buy another, shorter one. Or relocate the fuel lines/brake prop valve.
- LSD. I don’t know why, but for some reason, despite having an LSD it still spins one of the wheels on track, it’s only ever around left hand bends, and it was exactly the same before I fitted the LSD. Because it was the same with the open diff, I believe it’s car related, rather than diff related - corner weighting/suspension droop perhaps?
Price: £2250 - Personally, I believe it’s worth more, however I have a new car coming and really could do with this gone (before I decide I can’t stomach selling it!).
First off, it has been used on track, that I won't deny, but it has always been warmed before being driven hard, and it's been cared for accordingly. Videos of it on track can be seen here: www.youtube.com/user/titchster
Build thread can be found here: www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=147927
1.8 UK car (1998)
103,000 miles
MOT - May 2017
Engine
152bhp/120lb/ft with fuelling mapped by myself, ignition and cam timing haven’t really been played with, with a professional taking the time to set these up properly, I have absolutely no doubts that considerably more could easily be achieved (I did have every intention of booking it in for this doing very soon, however this opportunity has come up quicker than expected). Has only ever been run on Shell V Power in my ownership, much to friends dismay, at times... Having to hunt for a Shell garage can sometimes be a bit long winded.
-Mk2 BP4W head from a JDM RS model - 40 thou (~1mm) skim to up compression, ports slightly fettled and polished, valve seats recut, and then reassembled with new seals/gaskets etc
-Blox adjustable cam pulleys
-Bogg Brothers inlet manifold with GSXR ITBs
-Maruha exhaust manifold - Arguably one of the (if not, THE) best.
-Unknown brand stainless cat back - It came from a car that was imported with it fitted, so it’s from Japan, I just don't know whether it's custom, or off the shelf.
-Brand new catalytic convertor - Not a Mazda part, but a very large Mercedes part - as most MX5 guys know, the late mk1 MX5 had a completely different exhaust setup to earlier models, and so when replacing the exhaust, it can be a pain mixing and matching aftermarket parts (which are generally for earlier cars with shorter cats) to the later parts, so when I fitted the manifold, the standard cat wouldn’t fit, and I had this adapted to suit. With a suitable map, the car WILL (and did, before I then changed the map) pass emissions legitimately.
-Megasquirt 2 - Built by Reverent/MSLabs
-AEM UEGO wideband
-Aftermarket oil cooler - Oil temps never go above 100c on track.
-Kia 4.6 final drive - Much shorter gearing for improved acceleration.
-Ashcroft LSD
-Maruha speedo drive - To correct the speedo reading changed by the final drive, it’s the shortest speedo drive Maruha provide, however the speedo still over reads by 10%
-Custom made oil catch can
Chassis
-Jass brake stopper
-ATE super blue fluid
-Braided brake hoses
-Harddog M2 roll bar
-MeisterR Zeta R coilovers - Perfectly usable on the road, especially if the damping is turned right down.
-15x7 ET27 Work Emotion CR Kai - 195/50/15 Nankang NS2R with plenty of tread left.
-P5 Sportdrive frame rails - Fitting these made one of the most noticeable difference at reducing shakes and rattles over bumps on the road.
Exterior
-Garage Vary style lip
-Jass tow eyes
-Wipac crystal headlights
-Hardtop (headlining and heated rear screen)
Interior
-D1 Spec quick release steering boss
-Sparco 383 330mm steering wheel
-Sparco Rev seat
-Sparco 6 point harness
-TR Lane harness bar
-NC gear knob
-Autogauge oil temp gauge & AEM wideband gauge mounted in centre dash vents
-Custom DIN blank
-Cupholders (the important bit!)
Bad points
Yes, it has some…
- The engine has an oil leak, it’s enough to leave a few drips on the floor overnight, I’m not entirely sure where it’s coming from - all I know is it’s the head - I thought it was the cam seals after the head had been rebuilt, and they were replaced, however, it’s still there, so either the replacement (genuine Mazda) seals are also leaking or it’s the rocker cover, I really can’t see where else it might be.
- Rust. There’s a spot bubbling beneath the paint on the drivers side front wing, and the drivers rear arch has some on the lip. The sills however, appear completely solid - the car has seen very little winter use since they were repaired a few years back, and the use of a hardtop stops any chance of water building up in them, reducing the likelihood of them going anytime soon.
- Cold starts. It struggles to start from stone cold - if it’s been stood overnight, for example - I put this down to the cold start mapping personally, and just put up with it (anyone who’s done any kind of mapping will tell you that you only get one or two attempts at proper cold starts a day).
- Filtration. Due to the length of the inlet tract, there’s not enough room to fit velocity stacks or filters on the ITBs. There’s a number of choices; Cut down the inlet (which was my plan). Fabricate/buy another, shorter one. Or relocate the fuel lines/brake prop valve.
- LSD. I don’t know why, but for some reason, despite having an LSD it still spins one of the wheels on track, it’s only ever around left hand bends, and it was exactly the same before I fitted the LSD. Because it was the same with the open diff, I believe it’s car related, rather than diff related - corner weighting/suspension droop perhaps?
Price: £2250 - Personally, I believe it’s worth more, however I have a new car coming and really could do with this gone (before I decide I can’t stomach selling it!).
