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Post by Zed. on Jul 10, 2019 21:22:33 GMT
so, again not much progress but loads of almost-nothing done (again) removed top balljoints from a pair of early wishbones and a late mk2.5 wishbone (only had the 1) I'm looking to convert the front of my car to the later geometry so a mk2.5 front crossmember, rack, stub-axle / uprights & their coresponding top balljoints....  shows a mk1/NA top balljoint at the top & a mk2/NB item below, the mk2 item will work in a mk1 upright BUT need a spacer-washer to allow the nut to tighten - I'm using mk2 uprights so no issue here  also, a pair of top wishbones are soaking in the vinegar for a day then turned to soak for another day... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 12, 2019 12:47:24 GMT
more waffle.... just given the vinegar bucket a poke & turned the front / top wishbones to soak a bit more, they are starting to clean up nicely BUT are a bit rusty   I need to sort building the sandblast cabinet  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 13, 2019 23:49:09 GMT
so, killed my crapbook so on an old windows laptop (slow!) got to remember my passwords now  anyway, had a few hours fiddlin, again on the tb setup. This reffers to the Keihin throttlebodies as fitted by Suzuki to the GSXR1300 Hayabusa. any dimensions may not work with others  made some spacers for between the Keihin TB's to space to the Weber DCOE centres as used by Jenvey on their manifold, Mazda space the inlet ports (on the 1.6) @ 86mm, the Jenvey manifold uses a pair of DCOW pattern mounts, each carrying a pair of throttle-tubes @ 90mm with the centre pair seperated by the Mazda dimension of 86mm. store.jenvey.co.uk/pub/media/documents/drawings/MMZ03_D.pdfso some spacers 10.5mm (6 off, for the 2 'pairs') and asome @ 6.5mm (3 off to seperate between cylinder 2 & 3. these were made from 15mm diameter aluminium bar stock with a female spiggot on one side and a male spiggot on the other, 9mm dia & 1mm in length to 'fit' the throttlebodies togther.  spacer...  as test fitted.  all in a row....  adapter tubes rough cut on lathe. tube used is actually exhaust pipe! 50mm outside & 46mm inside diameter... Perfect for these tb's  nice, straight intake tract direct from the airfilter to the back of the inlet valve with no turns or bends  Down it's throat (through the tb, manifold through the inlet port to the Valve-seats) next is to make the flanges that will be welded to the adapter tubes, angle-grinder to cut the shape from bar-stock then in the lathe to bore the hole for the tube to fit, once welded they will go back in the lathe to be 'trued' more to come... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 17, 2019 20:41:40 GMT
more fiddlin (again!) been looking at the bias / adjustable twin cylinder brake pedalbox, thrying to suss increasing the pedal ratio & keeping the mastercylinders in the same vertical position that Mazda designed the car (to save chopping up the bulkhead too much!) standard ratio (with servo assistance) is 4:1, I'm looking for 5:1 or even 5.5:1 for a nicer pedal feel - but will have slightly more pedal travel (4:1 is like driving with e=the engine off so no servo 'boost' or assistance)  bits everywhere, one of the sacrificial pedalboxes....  the first one I played with, shortened the pedal & lowered the pivot position on the pedalbox, iirc it was 1" but this increased the 'arc' that the ballance-bar takes and lifts it into an awkward position causing the push-rods to bind on the cylinders  (I know the image is inverted, easier to photograph!)  another view. next, curiosity got me, can I use a standard Mazda type clutch release bearing on the AP Racing clutch cover I'm probably going to buy a new pressure-plate assembly but I'm using this secondhand one for test-build...   standard type release bearing, has a rounded acting surface, handy as the AP cover has 'flat' fingers.  as can be seen, the Mazda type bearing sits 'inside' the fingers, not great!   Arses......  A 'round' faced release bearing, this I believe is supposedly for a Triumph Tr7 V8 (Tr8?) shown as fitted to a 'Group 4 Escort type adapter sleeve (for cable clutch use)  Looks far better  so, boredom & distruction time, take 1 Mazda type release bearing & dismantle....  the 'baseplate (that fits on the clutch-release 'fork' with the plastic self-centralising sleeve fitted togther.  then place the Tr7V8 release bearing on top, maranade for 20mins then admire  so, this assembly will work to trial-fit (I must machine the flywheel, can then 'dummy-build') but is several parts loosely placed togther, if it looks like it might fit togther then I'll machine a release-bearing holder from steel to remove the plastic breakability from the part  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 23, 2019 20:55:11 GMT
so, decided to remove the diff-bushings to prep ready for replacements, still undecided as to oem rubber or solid, some thinking to do..... anyway, thought I'd use a 3-legged puller to press the old ones out...   once is a fluke, twice means it's personal  FFS. I'm confident that the casting is not weakened so will get medeval with a hammer & chisel to remove them the 'old-fashoned' way tomorows job.... If I decide on solid-mounting then I'll weld/brace the aluminium case to strengthen and remove the 'fuse' effect that Mazda designed into them... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 23, 2019 22:36:46 GMT
I've mentioned a few times that I have a few cars, I've been fiddlin with the 'proper' 80'/early 90's vw's for a few years - the air-cooled things are horrible, hatefull things and from late 90's onwards they are just overpriced & dreadfully bland boring blobmobiles  My 1989 B3 Passat (1.9tdi converted) and my t4 that's also 1.9tdi converted  as the badge suggests, Every Cunt has got one (well, it used to be like that but times & tastes change & things rust......)  an old photo, maybe 2 years old? the blue B3 td has been stripped for parts, I've even kept the rear wings as I know that finding one in a hurry would be a nightmare! the mk2 Golf tdi is in my garage having some attention - it's first welding in 32 years (a patch butt-welded under the rear seat in the 'floor') ![]() i.imgur.com/RUUvssT.jpg![]() [/img] the '93 B3, my current roadcar. was poverty spec 1.8i (singlepoint injection slug) but now 1.9tdi'd - the car vw should have made B-) (much like the '89 B3)   sorta looks like a B4 Passat tdi under the bonnet? wonder why :hyst so, both B3 Passats and the t4 were tdi'd with a B4 Passat tdi donor's, the mk2 Golf I used a mk3 Golf tdi as donor & 'knitted' the Ce1 & Ce2 'hybrid' loom. as you can see, I can't help fiddlin....... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 27, 2019 0:36:58 GMT
had a delivery today, some plasma-cut plates for the throttle-bodies adapters (to fit the Jenvey / DCOE manifold face).  marking the plates centre ready for drilling. they will be opened to 50mm clearance diameter for the tube-spacers to sit through (then welded).  sorta looking like a 'top-hat'.  in the lathe, used the biggest drillbit I have, 32mm. will have to open to the 50mm clearance the old fashoned way by boring.  the drilled plates (8 shown of 9) I'm making 2 sets of 4 adapters, short (1 1/2"? not decided yet) and 2 1/2" (tubes already cut & faced.  'trial' fitting one on the Jenvey manifold, also shows a plastic Weber / Dellorto 'insulator' plate (the 'pattern') will bore tomorow (today )  on a diferent point, had a looksee at the arches / sills on my car, looks like I need to catch the rear edges as the paint / underseal is starting to lift - rust has started  " src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/superangry.png">  lucklily, the lower outer 'sill' (actually the rear wing as it overlaps the sill) is still good and solid. will investigate further with a USB endoscope (ebay thinggy) more to come.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 27, 2019 21:49:41 GMT
had a boring evening...   bored to 50.5mm as a clearance on the pipes.  fit on the tubes & throttlebodies.    as 'trial' assembled.  next to droll the flanges for their fitting-bolts & weld the tubes, the tubes are aluminium coated as they were part of an exhaust (cheap & I had them!) so will need that coating removing before the 'Hot-glue' although it will probably burn off anyway without issue. once welded they are going back in the lathe to be 'faced' to make the faces flat / square to the tube to save on loads of sillycon sealer  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 27, 2019 22:03:56 GMT
forgot this image...  the view from the manifold back toweards the throttle... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 28, 2019 15:47:08 GMT
for a while 50 shades has had a non-standard Momo steering wheel, I believe its from a 'G-Limited' '5 when I bought the car it had a standard fit Momo wheel (complete with the Eunos crashpad / horn button) but I found this a little thin in section as well as slightly large diameter - probably just the need to change NOT actually a problem with it   and with the padded centre thinggy... (prefer without)  but, for a while I've wanted to replace with my Personal Fittipaldi  needed an adaptor as Momo & Nardi/Personal have a diferent bolting PCD...  being some kind of anarchist, I've mixed the Momo horn-push button on the Personal wheel  so now it's changed again... must stop fiddlin. must stop fiddlin. must stop fiddlin. etc. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 7, 2019 23:12:38 GMT
more nothing-done'ess..... diggin through the internot, I've fond a drawing & dimensions for solid diff mounts, this is actually the main section and some imagination will be used for the lower spacer-ring  also, from 'Miata Forum' theres a 'cheapo' crank locking tool idea, actually once you've gotten over the ghetto-esque quality it looks to be effective in the 'K.I.S.S' way  enough waffle for now, maybe soon I'll have something usefull to report Rich. |
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Post by Whistler on Aug 8, 2019 7:05:17 GMT
also, from 'Miata Forum' theres a 'cheapo' crank locking tool idea, actually once you've gotten over the ghetto-esque quality it looks to be effective in the 'K.I.S.S' way So simple - love it! |
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Post by dadbif on Aug 15, 2019 8:19:10 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Aug 15, 2019 14:50:18 GMT
I'll have a read of that later Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 16, 2019 12:50:05 GMT
not much done to the '5 lately, put some silver gaffer-tape over the hole in the passanger side front wing (where they always rot behind the bumper / front of arch), driven it, probably need to clear the roof-drains as it's been raining a little been working on my tdi'd 1987 mk2 Golf (brakes siezed & needs it's first bit of welding - patch under the rear seat :-? ) and moving stuff around in the unit...  empty space  can see my 'spare front metalwork from a dead 1989 car I broke, sorta a 'just-in-case' spare along with front & rear bumpers....  a rather 'odd' place to find rust? was starting to rot from below so time to chop it out & repair  the mighty '90hp' AHU tdi engine, 175'/lbs torque standard so not slow in the light mk2  lightly fettled & de-restricted so economical & fun as a daily one day I'll tidy the underbonnet, I have a diesel airfilter box to fit & replace the inlet manifold with one from a 'pd130' Passat to have a bolted flange connection to the intercooler pipework (not a few 'jubilee' clips!) - one day....  the 'office', loads of rare ish bits on this car, the cruise stalk (NOS in box) was a nice find as it's only used for a year or so compared to the earlier & later stalks also the td dash cluster as it has an alternator triggered tacometer to work with the diesel engine (the car is running an ecu controlled 'fly-by-wire' throttle setup but mk2 golf's didn't have ecu triggered tacometers just ignition-coil triggered so this is a 'get-around') also, Cruise working on a cable speedometer, used a hall-sensor on the rear of the speedometer to supply the vss to the ecu. Ce1 wired car with adapted Ce2 engine loom, the car actually became tdi powered 3 years ago yesterday must find intrest to weld the t4, it's mot expired in january & has been sitting in the unit since while still insured  more waffle to come.... Rich. |
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(I know the image is inverted, easier to photograph!)
" src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/superangry.png">
lightly fettled & de-restricted so economical & fun as a daily 