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Post by Zed. on Aug 25, 2019 18:23:49 GMT
another random collection of waffle (or no progress.....) so, been driving the car, not much to report, still waiting for access to a larger lathe so I can modify the steel flywheel to accept the multiplate clutch - no progress there. the itb's are on stop as I have too many other little jobs that seem to get in the way  but on the subject of itb's, airfilters were mentioned (in another thread) so I grabbed this & can add it to the story... also, had a random underbonnet photo to show lack of progress.....  also been playig with making a gearstick gaiter setup as the oe style one I bought (from moss) that didn't last a year needs replacing it's the little jobs that take the time. Rich. |
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Post by moclan on Aug 26, 2019 14:40:59 GMT
I've got a "Dr Diesel" camshaft and a "Giles" injection pump from Performance Injection (in Canada), if interested. Never mounted as my Caddy never made it on the road or at least it was the priority to do. Got the lot a few years ago when I went to visit my sister in Montreal
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Post by Zed. on Aug 26, 2019 15:46:27 GMT
I've got a "Dr Diesel" camshaft and a "Giles" injection pump from Performance Injection (in Canada), if interested. Never mounted as my Caddy never made it on the road or at least it was the priority to do. Got the lot a few years ago when I went to visit my sister in Montreal no intrest to me but I can pass the word around, what engine are they for etc. Rich. |
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Post by moclan on Aug 27, 2019 6:47:19 GMT
originally for the 1.6td. The cam is supposed to give about an extra 7hp. The pump is adjusted for upto 140hp with a small boost
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Post by Zed. on Aug 30, 2019 14:06:09 GMT
non 5 content... Been working on my t4 (have a few cars...:  )  replacing rotten bodywork (yes, t4's disolve  )  measure once, cut twice... 3mm gap is a little more than I wanted  ![]()  welded it anyway   sanded the 'spare' weld back ('flap-discs' on an angle-grinder)  theres a little skim of filler neede but I'm not worried about that, future problem if/as&when it's painted.... excuse the pink paint, all the 'nearly' the right reddish aerosol's I have are doomed   managed to get the door-gap correct as well  next is to repair the side-door (previous owner's damage, so at least 9 1/2 years old, obviously NOT a high priority ) more to come... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 7, 2019 13:08:54 GMT
So, I've been looking at brakes again, front caliper options to be precise... tempted on Wilwood's Powerlite caliper wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl147.pdfwww.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=10498{1}990 can work with the small 1.6 discs for less 'flywheelinertia & low unsprung weight - also as I'm lookin into 13" wheels, will fit inside the rim  so onto Rallydesign's website (UK Wilwood importer) and put a 'maybe' list in the basket... Sub-Total: £436.98 + vat & postage thats for a pair of calipers, set of billy-basic pads (for alignment purposes)and some brake-line fittings.. okey, not all of the fittings are possibly intended for the Eunos but....... as to mount brackets for the calipers, they look easy to make from metal-stock, luckily theres a few companies in the US that have made brackets so photo's for inspiration  will these calipers be an iprovement over the standard iron single-piston items? hopefully, will I actually get around to buying & fitting some? Dunno Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 11, 2019 17:41:56 GMT
more waffle.... I've been thinking of going to 13" wheels for a while, as much as I like the look of deep-dished minilite in 7" widths I think I'd prefer a little narrower & keep within the standard (un-cut/rolled/damaged) arches of my car although when the tinworm eventually rears it's head then this may change.... so...in the shed (& the garden!) I have some wheels left-over from rallying. 6"x13" Ford RS200 (& Capri Laser) 4 spokes. 7" & 8"x 13" Alleycat 'Rallye Special (not pictured) and some 8"x13" Revolution 4 spoke loveliness :-) I know the ford pcd is 4x108 & Mazda use 4x100 so these are not going to fit without adapters (no room) or re-drilling the hubs & discs, not a big job so I might look into this... so, spurred on by a post on one of the fb groups, I decided to try one of the 'RS' alloys, admittedly the ones pictured are Capri Laser items but visually & dimensionally identical..   Revolution in 8"x13", think a bit extreme for standard arches!   the 'Laser' in 6"x13", looks better in the bodywork, also clears the brake caliper..   the first one I 'found' with a tyre, unfortunately it's a gravel tyre so 185/70/13 so looks a bit large diameter but fills the arch... the 6"x13" 'rs' wheel is 7" overall width with a 4" backspace (3" outer offset?)  while the wheel was off I decided to look at the suspension, luckily all looked good so nothing to worry about :-) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Sept 28, 2019 0:31:11 GMT
Been quiet on the 5 for a bit, driven around but no work done... ebay was responsable for a new Mocal 13 row oilcooler & remote oilfilter head (mount), then another local find was aomeone breaking a kitcar so tonight I collected a 4-1 long primary exhaust manifold that will need modifying to possibly fit the Eunos engine & enginebay (masochist tendancies at work here...) the seller also has a set of Wilwood Powerlite calipers and a deal was made wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl147.pdfso, now I have a pair of radial-mount calipers that need suitable mounts made to fit the Mazda uprigts - should'nt be a problem to sort only issue is that these calipers are the narrow items made for solid brake-discs so I'll probably make a spacer kit to widen them for the standarrd size 1.6 discs I have (that will hopefully allow me to run with 13" wheels)   the parts as removed from a Sierra upright, was running with 265mm X 13mm drilled & grooved discs (I also have these) so I'm going to use the mount-brackets to setup for the Mazda fitment although I might use angle-stock & spacers to dummy-fit.  the 'radial' mount method.  easily spaced for diferent disc diameters   35.1mm pistons x 4, quite a small pad but the caliper weighs absolutly nothing compared to standard so less unsprung-wieght = better  the calipers fluid-in ports are 1/8 NPT Taper threaded so need an adapter-nipple, the previous owner 'fixed'things with an NPT-m10 nipple then a female m10 socket and the m10 threaded braided hose, not exactly elegent!  obviously worked (I think) RallyDesign are Wilwood's importers, they also sell braided-hose & fittings so brake-lines can be tailor-made, so a quick browse of their online cat-n-dog and an order was made... Products Tax Total 10 x RD1512 - Hose Fitting Olive £0.30 20% £3.00 4 x RD1538 - Brake Pipe Male End - 1/8 NPT Taper (into Wilwood caliper) £3.80 20% £15.20 10 x RD1513 - Hose Fitting Socket £0.50 20% £5.00 3 x RDPIPE3 - #3 STAINLESS BRAIDED BRAKE HOSE (3/8) £3.60 20% £10.80 20 x RD1559 - Locknut M10 x 1.0mm £0.21 20% £4.20 16 x CAT2019 - Latest Rally Design Catalogue (2019) £0.00 0% £0.00 16 x SS37 - Standard Plus 25mm - 63mm Long - 12mm x 1.5 Ford Stud £0.95 20% £15.20 total cost (with delivery & vat) £75.48... theres 3m of hose, more than enough olives & nuts to fiddle with lines, NPT fittings for direct connection into the calipers and 16x ford sized extended wheelstuds for if I decide to re-drill the hubs fo ford's 4x108 pcd to use 13" wheels that I have. enough waffle for now.... Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Sept 28, 2019 6:43:31 GMT
Some nice progress, have to admit I do like the idea of some ally calipers. Had some Hi Spec brakes on my V8 which were superb, so I may well get something once funds allow
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Sept 28, 2019 10:29:23 GMT
Some nice progress, have to admit I do like the idea of some ally calipers. Had some Hi Spec brakes on my V8 which were superb, so I may well get something once funds allow Russell The Powerlite callipers are £99 each +vat, then there’s pads / mounts & flexi-pipes to sort. only problem with these is the small pad area and no piston ‘dust-seals’ (as they’re more designed for competition use) the tradeoff with the small pad is the reduction in unsprung weight - it’s huge for a roadcar or big power build I’d look at their Dynapro range as can go on much bigger discs and have a larger pad (length/hight & thickness) im more interested in sprints & hillclimbs so lighter is better (hopefully ) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 1, 2019 21:31:34 GMT
new (ebay / old) Steering wheel time, this is 330mm diameter, I've been after something smaller for a while as the standard Eunos Momo is 360mm & the Personal Fittipaldi I've currently got fitted is 350mm diameter  new (old) Sparco wheel arrived, had to repair the wiring to the buttons, will be used as horn buttons although my mrs. suggests they should be for gearchanges (not 'flappy-paddle', more like 'pressy-button' )  solder & heatschrink to the rescue.... need to sort some glue to stick the 'suede' back over the back of the buttons then can fit on the Eunos - hope I like it  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 2, 2019 18:59:57 GMT
fitted the new(old) Sparco steering wheel tonight, had to add an earth connection in the Momo / Eunos boss for the horn buttons to work but otherwise easy enough  feels much better, might add a small (1/2") spacer for a better fit but the diameter is just right - although if I was slightly taller visability of the top of the speedo & oil pressure guage would be an issue also has a remote-oilfilter 'head' arrive - ebay again but a new / unused item that's somewhat more expensive to buy new this one allows the choice of pipe connections as it's drilled & tapped in 4 positions (has a pair of plugs so works with a conventional 2 pipe system), will now consider mount-locations.....  rest of today taken up with uni (5 hours) and a few hours replacing the rear wheel-cylinders on the 'new' Landrover Ninety (TUL FFW), now nearly ready for it's first mot in 5 years since it's cambelt shreadded  all back togther, well, sort of as I wanted to test-run it before fully assembling (it could have been doomed so a potential waste of time & parts?)  and the reason for the failure? the Landrover was an MOD spec 'fitted for wireless' model so had a secondary 24v alternator mounted on the cambelt housing, this had been removed & the bolts replaced to block the holes & it seems that one bolt was rubbing the cambelt, maybe theres usually enough clearance but it was aparently done by a large independant Landrover speciallist  anyway, it runs fine & starts beautifully so no damage worth worrying about (seems to have not bent valves OR pushrods when the belt failed, rare on a diesel...) next, last thursday evening I decided to replace the suspension on my 1993 B3 Passat t'die wagon, was a lovely dry evening so off I went, front topmounts had been wolloped up with a windee-gun so were to tight to undo by hand - borrowed a mate & his battery-impact gun & they came undone easily rears were more of a challenge, no less as it started raining (more like a tropical storm) and both rear lower damper bolts had their nuts corroded away to nothing " src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/superangry.png">ended up drilling & splitting the nuts...   annoyingly, the nuts are in the axle-tube so not easily accessable.... so a set of ebay's 'el-cheapo' Jom coilovers were bought & fitted (had £35 off so only cost £130 posted).... more waffle to come... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 7, 2019 23:16:24 GMT
Okey, confession time. I've bought another Eunos been to see it tonight & chat with the seller (longterm owner), hope to collect this week. G reg, been off road for about 6 years & in a garage, was intended to have it's waterpump replaced but never finished ebay to the rescue (or, sober in charge of ebay?) comes with a new waterpump, hardtop, front foglights & lsd (vicious diff?), has origonal sills & arches but it's paint needs attention  Japan Partner vin decoder sugests feb 1990 as build (if this is reliable?)   as advertised. (beacon not included )  advert interior photo. anyone identify the steering wheel?  underbonnet, can see the early wipermotor (points towards the middle of the car) aircon pipework & (not shown) the slam-panel is the early 'single-hole' type. the engine is incomplete & not runnable as the cambelt & waterpump are missing (new waterpump included). plans? get home, get running & evaluate, if solid then mot, if good then maybe sell '50 shades' and concentrate on the older car although if it's needing too much work then I'll have a long & hard think (I want an early car - long story...) more wanderings to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 9, 2019 18:43:44 GMT
collected the G reg Eunos today, tipically it's started raining & the car has been living in a dry garage for the last 6+ years    scruffy & suffering with the paint falling off (common on earlier white cars?) but solid & seemingly never welded OR needing any!   Origonal sills, pass lower wheelarch lip is starting to get scruffy - will attend to that soon.  part dismantled engine, waterpump failed & was never replaced...  the story so far.  early dashboard, the cluster is the 'minimalistic' type without the 'extra' warning lights in the centre don't know if I like the steering-wheel though.....  last tax-disc (had a private-plate but G840CLF was the 'original' UK registration (first UK registered 16/03/99) and registered as a Mazda MX5 not a Eunos Roadster Job-list? 1, fit waterpump & cambelt, time & check prior to running (hopefully ) 2, assess the body condition.. 3, assess the mecanical condition. think it's time for a new & seperate thread - maybe tomorow.... Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Oct 10, 2019 8:31:22 GMT
It looks in good condition, why the desire for an earlier car? Has the engine been sat open for 6 years? I don't know if that causes any issues, I'm just curious to find out is all. Will keep an eye out for another build thread |
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and can have some flexi-ducting to get cool air from the front of the car (& quieten the itb's 'bark')
luckily I happened to appear with a 'cheeky offer' and it's been in my garage for the past 15+ years gathering dust 
