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Post by Zed. on Oct 10, 2019 9:57:59 GMT
It looks in good condition, why the desire for an earlier car? Has the engine been sat open for 6 years? I don't know if that causes any issues, I'm just curious to find out is all. Will keep an eye out for another build thread  I'm going to investigate the condition below & inside later, so far all looks great if not scruffy  as to an earlier car, maybe it's the 30'th aneversary thing? maybe it's that they were more 'raw' & un-refined compared to later cars? dunno but I definately didn't want a later car & especially not a UK market version as although I can weld I cannot be bothered with work for work's sake (okey, maybe don't read this thread too closely  ) the engine has been open for the 6 years although the bonnet was closed so only spiders making homes on the cams need to be evicted  otherwise theres little diference to re-comisioning an engine except the partial rebuild but theres the bonus of knowing it's got a new cambelt & waterpump  I'll drain the oil & replace the filter as precaution but otherwise I'm not too worried AS LONG AS THE CRANKSHAFT'S KEYWAY IS GOOD (fingers crossed, it's a 'shortnose' or 'lightwieght sports' crank engine  ) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 11, 2019 21:11:26 GMT
Had an hour playtime today, started fitting the new waterpump on the new (old?) Eunos, most of the time was taken cleaning the cylinder-block's surface and the waterpump bolts, also the crank-pulley & it's fastenings.  fitted.  'Short-nose' / 'Lightwieght sports' Crankshaft B6 engine luckily the crank's nose is good (why was the pulley removed??) will rebuild & hopefully all will be good for a while also, the bloody alternator is siezed... Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Oct 13, 2019 15:01:59 GMT
'Short-nose' / 'Lightwieght sports' Crankshaft B6 engine luckily the crank's nose is good (why was the pulley removed??) will rebuild & hopefully all will be good for a while Have totally failed to keep up with this thread  SNC needing the woodruff key replaced?? Brave man... lol re: the engine being left open, mine's had the head rested on it but the plugs out, so I'm hoping no issues with condensation or anything! |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 13, 2019 17:45:05 GMT
(G reg Eunos content, J reg '50 shades' is in the unit nice & dry ) IT RUNS  tappets are a bit ticky but I've not re-connected the coolant-system so it's not run for long. had a looksee under & around and all looks good except the drivers-front wheelarch - found RUST strangely on the outside / wheel side of the front chassis leg (1"x1/2") hole poked through in front of the suspension mount - thought this was mk2 sorta rust? also below the clutch pedal area / next to the chassis under the car as the inside floor is fine  think this is a watertrap from below the brake servo / underbonnet area and lastly, the rdivers underfloor 'false' chassis /frame-rail', this is holed at it's front end where it meets the thicker chassis - looks like a garage jacked the car here & flattened the rail then it's rusted. all easily fixable other area's of rust, above both door hinges / bottom of the windscreen pillar (scabby), drivers sill / doorstep where the stainless threshold cover would sit (scabby but not holed) and the rear ends of the sills are scruffy inside the wheelarches - hopefully these can be saved with minor effort and weld-repair in a few years time will upload a few photo's later............................. 'Short-nose' / 'Lightwieght sports' Crankshaft B6 engine luckily the crank's nose is good (why was the pulley removed??) will rebuild & hopefully all will be good for a while Have totally failed to keep up with this thread SNC needing the woodruff key replaced?? Brave man... lol re: the engine being left open, mine's had the head rested on it but the plugs out, so I'm hoping no issues with condensation or anything! I don't know why people are afraid of the earlier 'snc' engines, if it's good then just re-assemble with a new key & maybe a few tweeeks like a spacer machined to stop the key 'creeping', if the nose is worn it can be reclaimed by either re-machining a new keyway (if just the keyway is damaged) or other machining / sleeving can be done to bring back to a working condition (depending on budget & the availability of later 'lnc' engines ) well, thats my take on them & I've re-engineered many other mecanical problems with good results Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Oct 14, 2019 15:13:41 GMT
Have totally failed to keep up with this thread SNC needing the woodruff key replaced?? Brave man... lol re: the engine being left open, mine's had the head rested on it but the plugs out, so I'm hoping no issues with condensation or anything! I don't know why people are afraid of the earlier 'snc' engines, if it's good then just re-assemble with a new key & maybe a few tweeeks like a spacer machined to stop the key 'creeping', if the nose is worn it can be reclaimed by either re-machining a new keyway (if just the keyway is damaged) or other machining / sleeving can be done to bring back to a working condition (depending on budget & the availability of later 'lnc' engines ) well, thats my take on them & I've re-engineered many other mecanical problems with good results Rich. I admire and am envious of your skills and ability to tackle challenges! I would hopefully be similar if/when I ever get a garage with workshop gear in it... lol |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 18, 2019 12:47:12 GMT
more waffle    mostly togther, got to re-fit cambelt covers & radiator setup then fix the clutch hydraulics (master-cylinder is soilid) and can have a test-drive  been looking at body condition, oddly rusted in strange places? the rear-panel is holed above the boot-lock, an easy panel-repair but an odd place to corrode  the passanger 'A' pillar is scabby, not uncommon but how bad is it?  passanger front footwell looked doomed...  but on removal of the 'false-floor' ecu cover it was found to be solid & full of nuts & sound-proofing  main floor & sills are good...  drivers 'A' pillar scabby, also has a scab on the doorstep / sill, looks to have been the stainless-steel doorstep cover rubbing throught the paint?  main floor & sills are good.  drivers rear sill / inner-arch, solid but scruffy & will need attention in a few years (pointless cutting open now, it's metal & rusting so leave untill needed...)  now then, the drivers front chassis, thought Mazda waited for the mk2 before installing rust here  also, the front floor area next to the chassis / below the clutch pedal is holed, this is an easy repair & a double-skinned area (false-floor) - probably due to water running through drain-holes under the bonnet / below the brake-servo...  tried a 13" ATS wheel (from an Opel Manta Berlinetta) on the car, happliy they fit over the rear brakes so another possible wheel-choice also, slightly un-related but Eunos content..  a while ago, saw these on ebay, looked to be either build, service or sales documents?   interestingly, these are relevant to a car with the vin NA6CE-165759 AND I'm sure I had paperwork for another, NA8CE-something BUT cannot find that  the above hopefully will help me convince the DVLA to re-register my car(s) as Eunos Roadsters as opposed to wrongly registered as mx5's  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 18, 2019 13:41:54 GMT
 the last photo I took of '50Shades' before I put it away in the Unit, still unsure if I like the boot-spoiler but it's growing on me Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 24, 2019 19:43:43 GMT
 saw a pair of Corbeau GT8 seats for a good price on fb's marketplace so bought them classic steel-framed seats as used since the '70s and also won some rallies (in works cars, Chevette HS & HSR for example) so must be fast? seriously though, these are comfy & hold you in place so a result think they'll need to be bolted to the floor for a better fit but I'm able to remove the '5s rear seat mounts so not an issue. will try some in the 'Binbag' (G reg Eunos) tomorow & evaluate.. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 3, 2019 21:55:41 GMT
Been busy on a few non-mazda projects lately, Landrover Ninety 'TUL FFW' and some other vw stuff so no real progress... did some more fiddlin on my G reg Eunos, engine nearly re-assembled (already running but some fettling...)  removed the front foglamp wiring and am assessing the aircon system's condition as I hope it can be made servicable  also today 'floor-ran' a Landrover '200tdi' engine in a mates garrage, he bought the engine as a 'runner' from a Landrover breaker but wanted to hear it run. an hour connecting the oilcooler pipework to a Mocal oil-rad & wiring to a battery & it burst into life Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 4, 2019 22:32:07 GMT
 had a spare half-hour so decided to true the thermostat housing / cover, I know genuine Mazda parts are available new for sensible money but theres no fun in that this is not the first thermostat housing I've machined & they're all warped to some extent, this one needed 0.025" (0.6mm) removing to make flat iirc, the one on 50 shades needed about the same to true... also, the temp sender's plug has snapped it's wire so I've srtipped the terminal from the plug & will solder / repair.... nothing else to report... Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Nov 5, 2019 20:28:44 GMT
Hi Zed,
I usually file the thermotat housing face then finish of with course wet and dry lubricated with paraffin on a flat surface.
( Not as much fun as using the Lathe though )
Ps We need to educate about Keys.
Woodruff Key is half moon shaped ( Not found on Mazda Cranknose )
A Square Key is found on Mazda crankshaft, it is modified with a taper at one end.
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Post by atlex on Nov 5, 2019 20:53:32 GMT
one day I will own a lathe...
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Post by Zed. on Nov 5, 2019 21:06:25 GMT
Hi Zed, I usually file the thermotat housing face then finish of with course wet and dry lubricated with paraffin on a flat surface. ( Not as much fun as using the Lathe though ) Ps We need to educate about Keys. Woodruff Key is half moon shaped ( Not found on Mazda Cranknose ) A Square Key is found on Mazda crankshaft, it is modified with a taper at one end. if I don't use the lathe (due to size or shape not being compatable) I draw-file gaket surfaces then w&d as to keys, I agree that it's commonly miss-named but I know whats meant (4 year apprentaceship as fitter&turner)  and  explain shaft & key fitment Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 5, 2019 21:11:03 GMT
one day I will own a lathe... I've got 2  and a bench-top milling machine.... but only the one lathe is up&running. the working lathe is a 1950 Kerry AG mk2 www.lathes.co.uk/kerry/and I have a smaller Myford7 buried under parts in the garage the miller is a modern Excel of some description (again, buried ) Rich. (all the gear, no time!) |
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Post by dickie on Nov 6, 2019 16:49:27 GMT
Hi Zed,
I well done for the Key information. I failed to post it !!
Your new car looks like its another project in the making !!
I sold my ML7 and bought a Harrison M300 ( rare 240 volt version )
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)
otherwise theres little diference to re-comisioning an engine except the partial rebuild but theres the bonus of knowing it's got a new cambelt & waterpump 
)
think this is a watertrap from below the brake servo / underbonnet area and lastly, the rdivers underfloor 'false' chassis /frame-rail', this is holed at it's front end where it meets the thicker chassis - looks like a garage jacked the car here & flattened the rail then it's rusted.
le sigh