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Post by Zed. on Nov 7, 2019 15:10:27 GMT
replaced the drivers door window motor / mecanism and investigated the rot on the rear panel that is letting water into my recently bought 'G' reg Eunos  started off as this seen from inside the boot....  then with the rear-panel / numberplate surround removed.... 
BUGGERIT 
was intending to make a repair plate but now will get a 'bodycut from a breaker (there are many dead 5's being broken) not much else done today.... Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Nov 7, 2019 17:32:19 GMT
Hi Zed,
It looks like you have found the secret rust spot place.
My project car had the start of corrosion in the same place, my surface rust is size of my little finger nail though.
It was the only corrosion I found on the shell. I suspect the plastic numberplate plinth has rubbed the paint away.
It seems you have bought yourself another challenge !!
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Post by Zed. on Nov 8, 2019 14:28:51 GMT
another 5 mins spent on the G reg car (the Binbag)  removed the hardtop, wondered what condition the hardtop was in and the body as hidden below also as to what condition the so-far unseen softtop was in  good news as the hardtop & car body as hidden byt it are both good (no hidden rust!) and there looks to have been a recent / new softtop fitted before the car came off the road so thats 'up' stretching in the sun (or whatpasses for 'sun' on a November morning in Wales  )  also looking at completing the underbonnet, the rad & some other parts need final-fitting BUT I'm in 2 minds as to removing the aircon system as I don't know if it'll work (or if it ever worked?) suppose it'd be one less thing to go wrong?  will update later if theres any progress... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 15, 2019 21:52:42 GMT
had half hour spare so back onto 50 shades, had a play with the wilwood powerlite calipers & dismantled one to assess making spacers to fit them over wider discs (calipers were made for a solid disc & I want to use them on a vented disc) the wilwood design runs a small steel bleed-nipple in a brass insert that screws into the caliper body, two of these needed to be removed to allow access to the allen-bolts that secure the two halfs of the caliper body. once split, the task looks to be simple, a shaped spacer with 2 clearance holes for the fasteners & one per caliper having a 'port' for the fluid to travel between (with a counter-bore for a sealing 'o' ring) no images but more progress  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 16, 2019 13:09:10 GMT
 recent photo update (yesterday) showing that aside from '50 Shades' being in the dry I've no actual progress to report  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 26, 2019 17:53:29 GMT
time for another tangent... I've been looking into engine mods for a while, headwork / cams & induction (throttlebodies) are under development & manufacture, the cylinderblock has been something I've been looking into for a while. one easy option is some ebay steel conrods and a few high-compression pistons are available for many £££'s or theres the adapt&overcome option - naturally I like this one  a while ago I read about using honda B16 pistons & conrods in the mazda B6 engine, the honda has a larger bore & slightly longer conrod and their pistons have a slightly shorter compression-hight so starts to look like a good idea  anyway, some internot diggin.... Engine. Piston Stamp. Compression Height. Dome Height. Weight. Bore . B6 ? 1.260″ (32mm) ? ? 78.0mm. Honda B16 engines. (source) www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/ Engine. Piston Stamp. Compression Height. Dome Height. Weight. Bore . B16A PR3 1.180" (29.97mm) 0.098" 299g 81.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B16A-PR3.htmlB16B PCTX 1.210" (30.73mm) 0.253" 327g 81.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B16B-PCTX.htmlB18B PR4 1.180" (29.97mm) -0.055" 280g 81.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B18B-PR4.htmlB18C P72 1.183" (30mm) 0.000" 305g 81.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B18C-P72.htmlB18C5 P73 1.190" (30.22mm) 0.070" 310g 81.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B18C5-P73.htmland, in the Honda 'B' series theres an oddity, possibly of use in the Mazda 1.8 engines as a 'cheap' overbore? Engine. Piston Stamp. Compression Height. Dome Height. Weight. Bore . B20B ? 1.165" (29.59mm) -0.035" 312g 84.0 mm. www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/B20B.htmlanyway, back to the B6 / B16 hybrid stuff..... inspiration comes from a thread on CR, it's not all the info but helpfull and answers a few questions... www.clubroadster.net/threads/1-73l-sleeved-b6ze.111337/post-4872345so, theres a few possible piston types. the B16B PCTX has pistons with a healthy 'intruder' so higer compression   the B16A PR3 has a smaller 'intruder' crown but still helpfull to increase compression   so, next job is to 'find' some pistons & conrods, then get a Mazda B6 cylinderblock bored (+3mm!) and modify the conrods to fit the Mazda crankshaft hopefully this will happen sometime this coming year... then to 'make a gasket (old tecnique of using a headgasket for the engine with larger 'fire-rings' fitted in place to suit the larger bore size, probably also 'wire-ring' the cylinderblock's deck face to increase the sealing & clamping of the 'fire-rings' (anyone still do this?) some usefull 'other' info about B6 engines... HEAD CC'S: 36 STROKE: 3.287″ ROD LENGTH: 5.228″ PIN DIAM: 20mm (.787″) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 26, 2019 20:35:56 GMT
Mazda B6 (& BP) conrod dimensions Center to center length: 133mm Big end diameter: 48mm Big end width: 21.84mm Small end diameter: 20mm Small end width: 21.84mm Honda B16 conrod dimensions Center to center length: 134mm Big End diameter: 48mm Big End Width: 23.75mm Small end diameter: 21mm Small End Width: 21mm narrowing the honda conrods bigend to suit the mazda crankpin is easy enough, cutting tang-groves for the bearing shells is also not too hard.... the problem is finding rods & pistons cheaply - the aim of this  new standard size / 81mm diameter genuine honda pistons are available for less than £300 a set (direct from Honda Japan) with aftermarket for less, hopefully I can find a used set to build as a test    images of B16B PCTX pistons, just because images are always good Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Dec 26, 2019 21:11:23 GMT
That looks... complex Isn't 3mm overbore an enormous change from standard (in any vehicle)?! What will the engine capacity be when done?? |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 26, 2019 22:14:07 GMT
Isn't 3mm overbore an enormous change from standard (in any vehicle)?! What will the engine capacity be when done?? 3mm? fords infamous crossflow had a .090" overbore to create the nearly 1700cc (.090" is about 2.25mm) and can usually take 83.5mm to do a proper 1700cc - not bad from an 80.96mm bore? obviously some cylinderblocks will be cast better than others so a bit of luck is needed when boring (& operator's skill especially if offsetting the bore from standard?) if I'm correct, the 81mm bore on a Mazda B6 will give 1721cc (anyone else is welcome to do the maths, 83.5mm Stroke & 81mm Bore X 4?? ) also, theres another piston option, the Toyota 4age engine had an 81mm bore and as standard have several diferent compression-hight & crown volume pistons available and have the same 20mm gudgeon-pin as mazda so easier fit than the Honda (21mm - hence use honda conrods) Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Dec 28, 2019 12:35:56 GMT
Isn't 3mm overbore an enormous change from standard (in any vehicle)?! What will the engine capacity be when done?? 3mm? fords infamous crossflow had a .090" overbore to create the nearly 1700cc (.090" is about 2.25mm) and can usually take 83.5mm to do a proper 1700cc - not bad from an 80.96mm bore? obviously some cylinderblocks will be cast better than others so a bit of luck is needed when boring (& operator's skill especially if offsetting the bore from standard?) if I'm correct, the 81mm bore on a Mazda B6 will give 1721cc (anyone else is welcome to do the maths, 83.5mm Stroke & 81mm Bore X 4?? ) also, theres another piston option, the Toyota 4age engine had an 81mm bore and as standard have several diferent compression-hight & crown volume pistons available and have the same 20mm gudgeon-pin as mazda so easier fit than the Honda (21mm - hence use honda conrods) Rich. I like your preference for making your life more difficult than it needs to be  lol |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 28, 2019 13:50:04 GMT
3mm? fords infamous crossflow had a .090" overbore to create the nearly 1700cc (.090" is about 2.25mm) and can usually take 83.5mm to do a proper 1700cc - not bad from an 80.96mm bore? obviously some cylinderblocks will be cast better than others so a bit of luck is needed when boring (& operator's skill especially if offsetting the bore from standard?) if I'm correct, the 81mm bore on a Mazda B6 will give 1721cc (anyone else is welcome to do the maths, 83.5mm Stroke & 81mm Bore X 4?? ) also, theres another piston option, the Toyota 4age engine had an 81mm bore and as standard have several diferent compression-hight & crown volume pistons available and have the same 20mm gudgeon-pin as mazda so easier fit than the Honda (21mm - hence use honda conrods) Rich. I like your preference for making your life more difficult than it needs to be lol stretching the boundaries of stupidity? Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Dec 29, 2019 1:19:00 GMT
ISTR it was the ford flow 711M block that had the thickest cylinder walls, mine was bored to 1700cc and then used the 1300 pistons to increase the compression ratio.
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Post by Zed. on Dec 29, 2019 12:35:58 GMT
ISTR it was the ford flow 711M block that had the thickest cylinder walls, mine was bored to 1700cc and then used the 1300 pistons to increase the compression ratio. of the standard ford 1600 blocks, the 711m was generally stronger than the 691m (or was it 691f?) as to bore wll thickness I believe that was down to luck & the accuracy of the mold-maker as well as the 'T-number (how many the ties the mold had been used and 'core-shifts' ) there was also the 1600 crossflow 'AX' cylinderblock, this was a genuine 'thick-wall' strengthened block (designed as a South African water-pump / industrial engine?) that could safely accept larger bore & was the 'go-to' for competition engines if there was a sufficient budget  obviously, a suitable budget had an alloy block and the other goodies to build a 2L+ crossflow BUT that was nearly as expensive as a BD...... subject of BDA, ~20 years ago (may 1999 sometime) I was navigating in a mk2 escort when it's BDA shit itself & dumped number 4 conrod & a bit of crankshaft out of the sump onto the road behind us! Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Dec 29, 2019 16:39:25 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Dec 29, 2019 23:53:18 GMT
okey, more progress (or lack of....) so I've found supposedly refurbished PR3 conrods in USA, used PR3 conrods / pistons in USA but so far nothing a little more local (like mainland UK). new pistons (PR3 & PCTX) are easily available so maybe this 'cheap' mod will go over the theoretical budget so not happen doin some diggin, Cometic make a head gasket to fit the 1.6 B6 with an overbore, Bofi list 80 & 81mm bore so I'm gonna take a guess at cylinder bore NOT gasket bore? unfortunately it's £132.99 including vat so not a cheap option bofiracing.co.uk/cometic-cylinder-head-gasket-for-mazda-mx-5-1-6-b6/Then add a cylinder bore (~3mm) and bearings / gaskets the 'cheap' idea is gone...... maybe back to the drawing board Rich. |
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)
lol
le sigh