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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Dec 30, 2019 16:44:04 GMT
Love the thinking, this sounds like a really good project ... keep it coming!!
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Jan 1, 2020 23:41:15 GMT
Far-kin-thingš Bought my ā90 Eunos as a non-runner, also without an ignition key (well there was a new āblankā in the ignition) and the boot lock worked with a screwdriver... In the glovebox was a part of a key so curiosity got the better of meš¤” Few hours later & the lock was dismantled and the broken stub removed š  Shame is that the car needs a rear panel as itās rotted - something Iāve not seen on a Roadster before and especially strange as the car has original sills, arches & is generally sound (if scruffy!)  New year search for a rear panel, should not be hard to find as plenty of dead cars being stripped š Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 2, 2020 13:10:32 GMT
I'm stripping a car over the next few weeks ... let me know what you need and I can cut it out
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Jan 8, 2020 0:20:37 GMT
so, no actual progress but I've just bought a 'Tony Law' exhsust manifold to modify & make (pray that it will) fit  I've been looking for a manifold with long primary pipes (somewhere between 24" & 28" is what I'm looking at with possible length altering on a friends dyno) for a while, there seems to be no 'off the shelf' competition manifolds and those that are available are a bit 'fast-road' for my liking (not forgetting a bit pricey with the jdm & ukdm ;scene-tax added)    its a bit diferent to the usual mazda fit manifold, hopefully it will be 'close' with a little alteration but if it's nowhere near then a mate is looking to build a toyota 4age for his escort rallycar so might end up there... also bought some Honda B16a pistons & conrods, these are coming from the USA as I couldnt find some locally  will await their delivery & decide if I've wasted loadsamoney  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 10, 2020 19:40:20 GMT
so. manifold arrived today, quicker than expected  its alot closer to fitting the 5 than expected, especially impressive as it was made for a Vauxhall ecotec 1600 port-spacing is almost perfect & with a Mazda manifold gasket laid over the manifold it shows how close with some of the Vx bolt-holes needing elongation and a few others needing to be created (drilled  )  as to fitting the car, the primary pipes are ~27" long and rise above the ports ~ 7" before dropping downwards with a 'width' of 7" from the cylinderhead that should just fit between the chassis & engine... but there might be fittment issues as theres an engine mount in the way where the pipes point on a 5  will be a case of 'choppeeee-weldeeee'  sorta shows the problem areawhere the 90* bend is  will fiddle more with it in the future... next... ECU's..... I've been looking at ecu's, sorta interested in the Speeduino platform as it's sensibly priced and has some interesting options like P&P and onboard wideband ( diy-efi.co.uk/product/core4_mk1_mx5_pnp ) but today I've been offered a deal on a new ME221 standalone ecu, this interests me as it allows new wiring and simplifying the mazda wiring so an improvement (hopefully) I was looking at using an old MBE 992 ecu that has been lurking in my workshop for a few years, the MBE would need complete mapping whereas the ME could start with a 'base' map & tune from there, dyno time whatever  Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 10, 2020 22:31:24 GMT
Iām still running my home built megasquirt, I see no need for most of the additional features that are available on newer ECUās.
Fuel, spark and the ability to control the idle valve...
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Post by Zed. on Jan 11, 2020 0:01:48 GMT
Iām still running my home built megasquirt, I see no need for most of the additional features that are available on newer ECUās. Fuel, spark and the ability to control the idle valve... if it aint broke.... I need to decide on the ecu then what 'extras' would be nice, this sounds odd but I'm basing this on my 'tame' dyno operator & friend who will have to put up with the tuning  unfortunately he doesn't like MS's tunerstudio much and isn't a fan of ME's mitie and the MBE I already have is old and while it still works it is fiddly to tune (first type of OBD2 compliant ecu that MBE sold?) anyway, gonna sleep on it & probably not make any decisions tomorow Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jan 11, 2020 8:20:29 GMT
I dabbled a bit with Emerald but originally used a DTA on my Westfield, when I gave that to my son we built a megasquirt and fitted that.
The experience gained there, and the ārelativeā ease of setup and tuner studio with auto tune for the VE table prompted me to build and fit one to the Mazda.
But as Iāve said before, itās a matter of taste,. The self build was a great project in itself, but you need to be confident with a soldering iron.
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Post by V6 on Jan 11, 2020 21:02:06 GMT
Your rear panel looks like a mission!
I will have a spare plastic rear panel soon, if you need that part too. Structurally sound in silver. Cosmetic 7/10 (worst part on my car!)
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Post by Zed. on Jan 11, 2020 21:32:03 GMT
Your rear panel looks like a mission! I will have a spare plastic rear panel soon, if you need that part too. Structurally sound in silver. Cosmetic 7/10 (worst part on my car!) the metal rear panel is easy to replace, compared to some of the work I've done I'd call it simple  the plastic outer numberplate surround is in great condition but the rotten metal is a new one to me  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 12, 2020 14:05:09 GMT
random boredom & the need to fiddle meant that I've bought some Acetal C 'bar-ends' (offcuts) and will now have to find the extra time to machine them into suspension bushes   now to decide on either stainless inner-tubes or to add bronze, maybe 'DU' bushings for smoothe & silent running no rest for the wicked Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 15, 2020 17:11:48 GMT
Had a delivery of suspension bushes today  sorta DIY kitform  more lathe time for me....... Nothing else to report...... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2020 22:16:13 GMT
had a delivery from USA today, care of ebay...  pistons look to be in good / usable condition with the exception of a set of new rings although I havn't measured them or the ring / groove clearance so maybe a new set of pistons will be ordered BUT it was the conrods I wanted and these will need narrowing on the big-end on both sides equilly.... these rods run a 'press-fit' gudgeon-pin that suits the PR3 piston as opposed to the 'floating' type found on the chineese 'forged' or 'steel' ebay conrods. next is to strip an engine to get a cylinder block to clean then get bored (about now I regret selling my 'Buma' boring-bar  ) so I can make a 'dummy-build' & check clearances * sort any relieving tats needed. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2020 23:00:56 GMT
been thinking (yes, I know it's silly...)
Mazda B6 (& BP) conrod dimensions
Center to center length: 133mm
Big end diameter: 48mm
Big end width: 21.84mm
Small end diameter: 20mm
Small end width: 21.84mm
Honda B16 conrod dimensions
Center to center length: 134mm
Big End diameter: 48mm
Big End Width: 23.75mm
Small end diameter: 21mm
Small End Width: 21mm
so the Honda B16 (PR3) conrod needs its big-end narrowing by 0.955mm (0.0375" in real measurements) each side to match the Mazda rod, will also check that the rods are not offset or biased from the bearing centreline as this can add complications into the mix...
more joyous lathe-time then maybe polish the webs and end-end balancing. then choose pistons - do I run the old origonal Honda or buy new aftermarket teflon coated jobbies?
Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 20, 2020 11:12:29 GMT
random boredom / ADHD moment, I've seen many posts on forums going back a few years re. B MW's E-waterpumps & remembered working on Davrian & Darrian's that had 'Davies-Craig' E-pumps (rear engined fiberglass cars) so ebay to the rescue (rescue? more like financial ruin!  )and just like magic - a pump appears.....  photo from ebay advert, diferent pump arrived (no hose) but had the bm's plastic thermostat attached, more ideas..... pump is ~7" long & #3 1/2" diameter (body) / 5" accross (impellor housing) so reasonably compact. looks easily mounted on the cylinderblock where the factory Aircon 'pump' bracketry would live, simple adapter bracket to be designed/bodged/mocked  there are several aftermarket options for E-pump control, some ECU's have spare compatable outputs and theres a standalone controller tecomotive.com/store/en/tinycwa/tecomotive-tinycwa as a p&p option. www.tecomotive.com/download/manual_tinyCWA_V3.1.pdfthe instruction pdf is handy with wiring details for various pumps. pump wiring connector is a Bosch 'D' shaped 4pin jobbie, should be easily found in my wiring connectors pile wiring details found on the interNot...  outer pair are +12v & -Earth, middle pair are signal. from the reading it needs constant power (sleeping) and is awaken with the signal (PWM form?) from a controller or ECU with coolant temperature reference for various speeds relative to cooling needs. more diggin/fiddlin/thinkin/inactivity to come.... Rich. |
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the plastic outer numberplate surround is in great condition but the rotten metal is a new one to me 
) so I can make a 'dummy-build' & check clearances * sort any relieving tats needed.
)and just like magic - a pump appears.....
le sigh