|
|
Post by dadbif on Jan 20, 2020 13:08:06 GMT
I have to ask, why? Surely more trouble than its worth?
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 20, 2020 13:37:15 GMT
I have to ask, why? Surely more trouble than its worth? On an Mx5? trouble?  actually it’s also related to some ideas for a friends rally car so a double-development that might not happen anyway...... but I like the adaptability of newer technology, there’s a turbo’d Mx5 in Europe with a Bm/getrag 7speed dct gearbox running paddle-shift, again fascinating technology  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 23, 2020 23:28:13 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 24, 2020 0:29:54 GMT
Far-kin-thing🙄 Bought my ‘90 Eunos as a non-runner, also without an ignition key (well there was a new ‘blank’ in the ignition) and the boot lock worked with a screwdriver... In the glovebox was a part of a key so curiosity got the better of me🤡 Few hours later & the lock was dismantled and the broken stub removed 😎  new key cut, need to re-fit the boot & steering lock now...... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 28, 2020 23:12:39 GMT
so, some thinking/ progress on the honda conrod conversion... the conrods have the same big-end 'tunnel' but are wider so need machining (easy) measured the bearing shells, same (ish) internal diameter (did'nt tighten the cap-nuts so not 100% accurate) but the Honda shells are 2mm wider than the Mazda items. (19mm vs 17mm). also the locating 'tangs are on opposite sides so Mazda bearing-shells will not fit the honda conrod without modification, BUT it looks like honda bearing shells can be used so time for some 'google-fu'    so, time wasted & trying to catchup... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 28, 2020 23:20:33 GMT
been thinking (yes, I know it's silly...) Mazda B6 (& BP) conrod dimensions Center to center length: 133mm Big end diameter: 48mm Big end width: 21.84mm Small end diameter: 20mm Small end width: 21.84mm Honda B16 conrod dimensions Center to center length: 134mm Big End diameter: 48mm Big End Width: 23.75mm Small end diameter: 21mm Small End Width: 21mm so the Honda B16 (PR3) conrod needs its big-end narrowing by 0.955mm (0.0375" in real measurements) each side to match the Mazda rod, will also check that the rods are not offset or biased from the bearing centreline as this can add complications into the mix... more joyous lathe-time then maybe polish the webs and end-end balancing. then choose pistons - do I run the old origonal Honda or buy new aftermarket teflon coated jobbies? Rich. so, some thinking/ progress on the honda conrod conversion... the conrods have the same big-end 'tunnel' but are wider so need machining (easy) measured the bearing shells, same (ish) internal diameter (did'nt tighten the cap-nuts so not 100% accurate) but the Honda shells are 2mm wider than the Mazda items. (19mm vs 17mm). also the locating 'tangs are on opposite sides so Mazda bearing-shells will not fit the honda conrod without modification, BUT it looks like honda bearing shells can be used so time for some 'google-fu' so, time wasted & trying to catchup... Rich. to keep info togther... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Jan 29, 2020 8:59:01 GMT
Have you ever thought of doing things the old way, white metal and then scraping/ boring back to size? I have a couple of scrapers...
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 29, 2020 12:25:45 GMT
Have you ever thought of doing things the old way, white metal and then scraping/ boring back to size? I have a couple of scrapers... its Puddle, bore, Blu'ing then scraping (repeat) I have a few sticks of wm, a few tins of 'blue and a good selection of scrapers & knifes, although I've not done a car crankshaft since about 1989/90, eaiter an Austin Severn (2 main-bearing (front twin ballrace & rear roller) with oil-spray / drip-feed wm big-ends) or a 1929 Triumph SuperSevern (3 main-bearing & oil-fed bigends - all WM)  to be honest, while WM is nice to work with it's cost in time & effort it far more than a set of 'normal'LI shell bearings and as I've now discovered, can use Honda's wonderous "silicon-bronze" material as an added bonus  interestingly, Honda supply bearing shells singularly so you can mix&match for clearance (nomore paper between shell & bearing cap!  ) from www.inlinefour.com/oemhob1corod.htmlthis makes an interesting change to assembly, the old ways sometimes involved 'shimming' between the shell & cap (paper?) or even filing / grinding a cap & shell to tighten the 'clamp' - can be suprising when checking the 'factory' clearances & tolerences  I know this is written about a Honda build but assembly principles are common.... dsportmag.com/the-cars/project/engine-tech-1000-whp-honda-b-series-build-part-1/2/Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Jan 29, 2020 12:33:41 GMT
I used to have access to. Sunnen honer, so could lap the joint faces on the rods and then hone the big end bore back to size.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Jan 29, 2020 12:46:23 GMT
I used to have access to. Sunnen honer, so could lap the joint faces on the rods and then hone the big end bore back to size. I used to have access to a lot of tools, when I walked out of my last job (local steelworks) I realised what I had available  I do have a small machineshop with mill, lathes etc & various weld / fab equipment but miss the other stuff... AND regret selling the 'BUMA' boring-bar, especially as I want to overbore a cylinderblock for the '5........... not fair  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 9, 2020 22:52:22 GMT
Stripped a spare 1.6 engine today, thought it was empty of oil but had ~3 Litres to mop up from the workbench when I inverted it to remove the sump  early engine so 'lightwieght sports crankshaft' otherwise called the 'shortnose' crank but if it's in good condition I have no concerns about using such a crank. I actually wanted the cylinderblock to prep ready for boring so a caustic-dip for a few weeks then machining... crank & block look to be in good condition, lournals mic good ans no taper, bores are irrelavant so no worries and even the pistons & conrods seem servicable - although I'm intending to use longer Honda conrods & higher compression pistons so no use anyway  landrover diesel-pump pulley removal puller works wonderfully on the Mazda crank pulley....  crank nose & keyway are perfect, nicely fitted key needed persuading to leave it's keyway so thats all good...   all stripped, also (not shown) is the block has had all 9 core-plugs removed and the main oilway brass plugs drilled ready to be pulled for cleaning, I will look into threadded plugs if possible but can make new tapered brass plugs to seal otherwise. next, need a big container to soak the block in...... Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Feb 10, 2020 7:45:55 GMT
That looks good fun
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2020 8:22:06 GMT
more waffle....  drilled & tapped the oilway plugs to enable removal, used an M10 tap and then an M10 allen bolt with a socket (the time-old bodge) to draw the brass plugs out of the cylinder block. I don't know how many times I've seen people 'build' engines without removing all plugs & caps to clean out the gack also removed the coolant 'core plugs'  B6 block showing the piston cooling 'oil spray' mounts, may delete these but that depends on some reserch into oil flow as might need to alter the remainder of the system to account for the 'extra' oil I've got a Toyota 4age engine (bottom end) here to fabricate a 'dry supm' pan, so random boredom = compare Mazda's B6 1.6 block with Toyota's 4age 1.6 block....     the Toyota block is slightly longer than the Mazda item, also this is a 7-rib version of the 4age so heavily strengthened  8 bolt flywheel-crank on the toyota, mazda run with 6 bolts.  toyota crankshaft.  workbench image, cn see the 'windage tray' on the toyota block, the dry-sump 'pan' will closely follow this profile to allow the engine to sit as low as possible (in a mk2 escort.) Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by wannabe on Feb 11, 2020 9:50:50 GMT
Great work!
This is the sort of thing I'd like to do if I ever get a workshop space - might give me some more confidence to get stuff done.
I'm interested to see how the shortnose survives being rebuilt; I recall Skuzzle recounting the tale of them rebuilding one at the insistence of a customer, only for it to fail catastrophically after a grand total of 75 miles...
|
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2020 12:37:46 GMT
Great work! This is the sort of thing I'd like to do if I ever get a workshop space - might give me some more confidence to get stuff done. I'm interested to see how the shortnose survives being rebuilt; I recall Skuzzle recounting the tale of them rebuilding one at the insistence of a customer, only for it to fail catastrophically after a grand total of 75 miles... space? if I had any.......... as to the crank, it's what Ive got at the moment (just wanted this stripped to start on the block prep) I don't think they're that fragile though Rich. |
|
)
le sigh