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Post by Zed. on Mar 13, 2020 23:26:37 GMT
The Mad Scientist missed a trick when he cut up the orange car.   How handy would the complete front end be for this Exhausting project !!!!!!! Subframe with skeleton block and gearbox to check the fit of everything. was a thought but space was an issue.... space IS definately an issue now Nice work  Will they clear the bonnet? lol doubtfull..... but... because racecar innit? think it's going to burn paint  this manifold is realy importnt to help the engine breathe, sacrificing a bonnet & maybe massaging the aluminium bonnet skin with a hammer is not a problem  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 14, 2020 17:22:59 GMT
more photos s a record of the lack of progress...   and some of the inlet port from the valveseat..   I'm going to have a try at re-shaping the manifold to fit the enginebay in the next few days, will update then Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 15, 2020 19:56:51 GMT
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Post by wannabe on Mar 15, 2020 22:12:16 GMT
V6 is a whiz with graphics - he might be able to colour-change the bootlid to black
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Post by Zed. on Mar 15, 2020 23:01:01 GMT
V6 is a whiz with graphics - he might be able to colour-change the bootlid to black I'm starting to think that theres too much black, I'm going to try a silver bonnet & heaslight covers  also I'm going to remove the fiberglass vented headlight cover as I've never liked it  and I've a new passanger side front wing to fit so there'll be paint available Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 19, 2020 2:22:39 GMT
been playing around with gearing....  is the standard 1989-1993 1.6 gearing (5 speed gearbox & 4.3:1 diff ratio) I have a Kia Sportage freont diff sourced final drive so a little diferent...
 I now have a 6 speed gearbox from a mk2.5 to add into the mix
this I'm going to alter by disabling 1st gear so it'll be a 5 speed with a high-rtio '1st' and close-ratio 1-2-3-4-5 (driven as a 'dogleg' first gearshift  ) now to partly dismantle the 6 speed box for a visual inspection then make the '1st gear lockout' (drill&tap / m8 bolt) and look into designing a new gershift tower & gearstick to lift the gearknob higher for easier access from the steeringwheel and to 'quickshift' nothing done easily......... Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Mar 20, 2020 20:56:41 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Mar 22, 2020 21:19:49 GMT
 removed the softtop from 50shades....  evidence of a rollcage in a previous life, shame an angle-grinder was used to (badly) cut the parcel-shelf bodgers  ......  cleared the hood drains, probably remove these completely as I might get a safety-devices rollcage & they mount here....  view from the office  planted the spare front... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 23, 2020 23:29:14 GMT
 6speed gearbox fiddlin time...  new input shaft seal, also removed the gearstick turret to investigate a 'Rose-jointed' quickshift gearstick. as to the rj quickshift, standard Mazda stick is 7 1/2" with a 5:1 ratio, I'm thinking of a 12" gearstick with a 6:1 ratio as a start then maybe going for a further evolution longer and with a quicker ratio. an easy 'ghetto' quickshift can be made by spacing the gearstick turret up about 3/8" (10mm) from the gearbox tailcase  also, another 'mod' I'm looking at is to make a 1st gear 'lockout' to run the 6 speed as a 'dogleg' first type 5th gear. this I believe can be done by drilling & tapping the tailcase and using a bolt to restrict the selector-rod entering the 1st gear position  why make life easy? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 28, 2020 21:41:35 GMT
 bit of gearstick fiddlin today, decided on a longer gearstick so mocking a 'dummy' 12" long with a 6:1 ratio (standard 6speed is 7 1/2" long & 5:1 ratio) Rosejoints (spherical bearings) are great for using as a pivot and I just happened to have a spare of a suitable size in a draw some drawing & machine a'tophat' sleeve then I'll have a working prototype (hopefully ) more fiddlin & thoughts to follow..... Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Mar 29, 2020 12:32:46 GMT
Very cool! I'm just looking at similar ... making myself a gear gate and need to make a longer / thinner gearstick for it to work. The standard one is much too wide to fit through the gate
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Mar 30, 2020 19:14:58 GMT
I've been looking at cooling mods for a while, including replacement radiator setups... conventional 'wisdom' involves a larger alloy rad but I think that a more efficient replacement is the way foreward my thinking is that a 'standard' type rad is wide but has vertical flow, theres more efficient designs available like vw use, crossflow and twin-pass (in & out on the same side) also has the bonus of being smaller so can be mounted centrally if an intercooler is fitted (allows ic pipework on the sides for a neater & more efficient install) or biased to the exhaust side like I am trying (allows oilcooler piopes & 'cold' air feed to throttlebodies )  a standard type rad & frame (top) and a vw polo rad in a modified Mazda rad frame (bottom), the frame was modified by welding some thinwall box-section steel tubing between the lower ends of the Mazda side-frames. this is version1 and I'm considering making a version2 already (lifting the rad upwards ~1 1/2" - another story maybe...)  the polo rad fits via 2 'pins' at the lower ends of the tanks with tags at the top.  it fits!  ~6" so plenty for a 'cold-air' feed  alterations to the coolant system involve running a 'header-tank' as opposed to Mazda's 'overflow' setup, so the rad has a 'vent' stub that needs consideration. the frame needed some alteration.   more thoughts to come... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Mar 30, 2020 21:03:31 GMT
I used a polo rad on my Westfield, compact and efficient..
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Post by Zed. on Mar 31, 2020 16:57:16 GMT
 measure once, cut twice  first test on left, was welded to the bottom of rad-frame (cut off to try higher) second test in middle, forgot to measure & welded on wrong place (too high ) damn ADHD  third on right, letting cool (having a cuppa) will try for fit lifting te rad aligns its top better with the engines coolant systems highest point so will bleed better, theres plenty of room onderbonnet to fit but one issue could be the front antiroll bar and the lower rad /hose position but the arb can be re-positioned easily with fabricated brackets. more thoughts / re-designing & swearing to come Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Mar 31, 2020 19:51:56 GMT
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)
lol
......
le sigh