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Post by Zed. on Jul 4, 2020 11:00:07 GMT
Why have you placed the TB’s so far from the manifold, I would have had the long tract before the butterflies. I assume it is related to mounting them with the adapters? experimental  the longer tract (butterfly to valve) can improve totque  I'm also making a pair of 1 1/2" shorter adapters (maybe 2"?) for experementing on the dyno..... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 4, 2020 21:31:25 GMT
How about injector position, long way from the inlet valves..
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Post by Zed. on Jul 4, 2020 22:01:07 GMT
How about injector position, long way from the inlet valves.. something else that I'm playing with Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Jul 4, 2020 22:52:42 GMT
How about injector position, long way from the inlet valves.. Will keep the intake nice and clean? lol |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 16, 2020 21:09:36 GMT
drysump thinkin... been looking at plumbing the oil sytem, armed with an empty cylinderblock, waterpump & pulley, front cover / standard oilpump and crank pulleys I mocked up my plans... the standard oilpump was stripped as it's only needed to stop oil leaking & complete the engine. pump rotor / anulus was removed & casing top trimmed (to remove the 'port' that feeds oil through the cylinderblock to the oilfilter then the bearings) generally drysump systems feed pressurised oil from the pump through a filter then to the engine oil gallery  I'm considering feeding directly to the cylinderblock where the origonal pump fed. this would allow using the origonal oilfilter on the cylinderblock so less pipework & (hopefully!) a neater install... some guesstemation & eventual measurement and the cylinderblock can be tapped for a 3/8"bspt thread to accept a hydraulic 'nipple' to connect pipe to..  a 1/4"-3/8"bsp nipple is shown for reference but I'm looking at going with a 3/8" thread in the block & 1/2" for the pipework.  better view?  shows the main oil gallery (to left of nipple, this I've removed it's brass plug to clean & will be making / fitting a replacement if I use this block) and to the right, the top of the origonal oilpump thats been trimmed flat (ish) and its feed port (will be plugged if I use this) part of this mock-up was to test for clearance between the pulleys & where the hydraulic fklexi-pipe would run, this would also be inside the 'fanbelt' so a spare belt would need to be fitted over the pipe & taped or cabletied to not interfere with the pulleys or the cambelt! Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 1, 2020 11:49:51 GMT
bought a mk2 /nb startermotor, supposedly smaller / lighter & more powerfull than the mk1 item.... mk1 startermotor weighs 4.5kg (ish) mk2 startermotor weighs 2.5kg (ish) a serious diference  also, machined / reduced the outer-diameter of a crankshaft pulley boss so that cambelts are now easily replaced, all non-shortnose engines need the crank's centrebolt & the boss removing to slip a new cambelt on so 10 mins lathe work (including cleanup - bloody messy cast iron!) and the diameter is down to 80mm & should have sufficient space between the oilpump casing & boss for a belt replacement   I then sandblasted it & this morning its rusted  little other progress to report.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 1, 2020 18:21:53 GMT
 comparison of startermotor size Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Aug 1, 2020 19:37:52 GMT
Hi Rich,
You could go Full Redneck on the oil feed !!!!
Use a BANJO !!!!
With Dowty washers a Banjo will take the pressure and might give a better hose lead.
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Post by scottydugg on Aug 1, 2020 20:06:22 GMT
I fitted a mk2 starter to mine, only 2 of the bolts will fit, save you the confusion I had! It starts the engine almost instantly!
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Post by Zed. on Aug 1, 2020 21:53:30 GMT
I fitted a mk2 starter to mine, only 2 of the bolts will fit, save you the confusion I had! It starts the engine almost instantly! 2 bolts is lighter thn 3 bolts also, I've a bit of a modified 6 speed / 5 speed thing to go in the car  Anyway, back to normality.... the mk2 5 speed gearbox will accept both the early & later startermotors as the 'middle' hole is slotted Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 3, 2020 11:27:23 GMT
removed the fiberglass vented headlamp cover & replaced with a steel origonal, think it looks better already Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 20, 2020 23:37:26 GMT
more fiddlin... the 1.8 crank is too long to fit in a 1.6 cylinderblock, or is it    I'm looking at the mount bracket & pulleys for the drysump pump, I already had 4/5 of a 1.8 crank in the scrappile so chopped the front of that & as it was rustee it had a session in the sandblaster why not use a whole 1.6 crank? the only one I've got available is a shortnose & I'm building the engine around a longnose so needs must.... now I can fit this in my 'dummy' cylinderblock to work out the bracket. wonder how many evolutions will be tried before I either giveup or perfect a working setup? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 21, 2020 20:32:29 GMT
as an extension of the last post, I found & assembled the crankshaft & cambelt pulley setup and thought I'd add a few images for reference purposes... general assembly...  and the length the key protrudes past he end of the crank int the pulley boss 'void'.  anyway, itb's...  top views.  from below.  side view.  I've placed the rubber trumpets on angled foreward but this is temporary, could be angled down or even replaced with shorter / straight items... I'm intending to run these as on the donor Hyabusa with the injectors underslung as it will hopefully be neater :-? am deciding on the throttle linkage and looking at a reduction to allow more progressive operation - unlike motorcycle 1:1 twistgrip action as having an 'On-Off' throttle pedal can be exciting! Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Aug 22, 2020 16:19:35 GMT
Cut a hole in the bonnet and stick the trumpets through it?  |
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Post by dickie on Aug 22, 2020 18:13:51 GMT
Hi Rich, You should have the perfect throttle actuator in your scrap pile. All you need to do is to take the OEM actuator from an old throttle body and graft it on to the bike sets shaft. You will get exactly the OEM throttle ratio and if you get it right with an custom anchor bracket you can use the stock throttle cable as well. My GSXR 600 set up has the actuator at the front with the OEM cable. I have added another throttle return spring as the bike one is a bit lightweight. I also use the OEM TPS on a custom mount as well But I am running an 1800 set up.
Ps I am still waiting for the DVLA to register the car ( second attempt now as it was not on NOVA system but it is now )  |
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le sigh