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Post by Zed. on Jun 17, 2020 18:34:52 GMT
more pedalbox progress.... and... more potato photography      I've narrowed the cylinder centres, origonally I had planned to use the Mazda servo bolting positions but this is slightly neater & suits the ballance-bar / it's clevis alignment better.....    the cover plate (the old rusted one is from a sierra cosworth bias pedalbox, used to mock-up) will be trimmed to fit the bulkhead nicer, also in the car it will be stitch-welded in place with a tag mounted to have a brace-bar if its needed?  so, now at the stage of making the side-plates to accept the new pivot-point for the altered pedal, I've made a pattern & a pair of 'test' plates & trial-fitted them, these will be finished tomorow and final welding will be done  I will be adding some bracing and welding a nut to the pedalbox below the throttle pivot so an adjustable brace can be fitted (nut & bolt) to stop future flexing & cracking here as it's a common failure point. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 20, 2020 21:25:06 GMT
so, eventually got bored fiddlin & re-thinkin so made a rough&ready final 'ginea-pig' test pedalbox.  another Potato photo  I'm not adding further bracing as I want to see how it flexes when built & installed in the car (it's actually quite ridgid even though it looks sorta spindly ). I've 'designed in an external bulkhead brace to mount to the lower cylinder studs & one of the captive-nuts in the drivers innerwing so maybe the pedalbox can stay as is  also, below the throttlepedal pivot mount, you can see I've welded an m8 nut to mount a bolt that will (should??) butt against the bulkhead to strengthen the pedalbox and hopefully no more floppy throttle  once this is fitted, tried & proved I'll make a new permanant one... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 22, 2020 9:34:19 GMT
final 'test' assembly pf the bloody pedalbox  general view.  (upside-down) cylinders & ballance-bar fitted through pedal. (can also see how much the cylinder-centres have been narrowed compared to the servo-bolting holes in the pedalbox & bulkhead)  pedal @ rest, no brake pressure.  pedal pressed, little rear cylinder pushrod movement but front cylinder pushrod has majority of travel (bias adjusted to front to photograph). the f/r bias is increased with the use of diferent bore cylinders, rear being larger than front (I know it sounds wrong but fluid dynamics etc.) and the ballance-bar can be turned (with a cable adjuster fitted in the dashboard) now to get brave & chop my cars bulkhead slightly to fit this setup Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 22, 2020 19:08:58 GMT
been thinking on brakepipes, braided hose is cheap (ish) so why not?  using 'banjo' fittings can run front / drivers side & rear lines away from other components with the front passanger side running behind the rear reservoir before crossing the bulkhead. can also see a clutch master cylinder without it's reservoir, I'm considering running a remote reservoir for this OR maybe a Mazda 323 m/cylinder as these already have remote reservoirs & also the fluid-outlet port is vertical so another possible improvement?  'test' line fitted beind the reservoir.  'artistic' view now to make a bulkhead drilling jig to use on my car...... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 24, 2020 12:23:11 GMT
more add related tangental fiddlin....  stripped another early instrument cluster. decided to modify this one to accept the 'new' Elliot tacometer, 'Real' oil pressure & coolant gauges, thought I'd see about mounting them on the face as opposed to recessed behind as origonal so popped the plastic 'screen' off for a looksee....  the early clusters ('89 -'90) have a few less warning lamp icons so neater in my opinion more fiddlin later... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 28, 2020 9:41:06 GMT
Aaaaarrrrggh! damn you evilbay..... sorta heading in another tangent, sorta drysump shaped tangent at that... so I've bought a Pace CD2000 3-stage pump (2 scavange / 1 pressure) from ebay, if all turns out good with it then it's time to make a sump-pan & worry about oiltank placement www.pacepumps.co.uk/cd-2000-pumps how it works.....  what I've bought so, presuming its in usable condition (or cheaply repaired if damaged beyond use?) I'll be heading in this direction (new pumps are ~£700+ so buying secondhand can be worthwhile) 2 steps foreward & many in any other direction...... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jun 29, 2020 14:40:51 GMT
back on the Jenvey / Hayabusa itb adapters....  eventually 'finished' the test 'long' adapters to fit the Jenvey manifold's 'DCOE' flange pattern.  dummy-build with injectors mounted below (well, none fitted but...)  side view of rear body & tps, this 'long' adapter gives a 15" tract from trumpet to sparkplug (& as on a 1.6 head it's a straight shot to the valves as no turns in the port like the 1.8 heads )  a look down its throat.  the injector spray is aimed at the adaptor's flange (lucky guess!)  adapter welded on face & brazed externally then in the lathe to remove excess & 'true' the faces...  another view.  short trumpets (I was taught 'Ram-pipes'  ) are gen1 Hayabusa & Gsxr750, Gsxr750 use 4 short & Hayabusa use a pair of short with a pair of long. the longer trumpets are gen2 Hayabusa (cheaper to get 4) and I believe same length as gen1 BUT slightly larger diameter where they fit the throttlebody   view down a short trumpet (slightly better tract than my previous photo due to number 2 & 3 cylinder manifold runners are straight whereas 1 & 4 are slightly angled on the Jenvey manifold to account for the Weber DCOE mount pattern)  a long trumpet (this was taken on number 3 runner) as to the trumpets, I have a set of short & a set of long so can play with lengths on the dyno (one day?) and will also be making a short pair of tb adapters that will allow shortening from the throttle-butterfly to the manifold by 1 1/2" - will this show benefits I wonder? now to sort some m5 studiron (threadbar to some?) so I can fit the spacers I've machined to fit between the tb's. also will look into a brace to take the wieght of the itb's and stabilise, probably mount to the engine mount (another project!) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 29, 2020 21:35:54 GMT
I was going to ask how you were going to support them... then I read the last bit
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Post by Zed. on Jun 30, 2020 20:54:52 GMT
bought some Enkei 'Formula W-1' wheels, 6/14" et 45 cast centres with spun barrels / rims welded to them  will sandblast & paint before trying on my '90 Eunos Roadster Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 1, 2020 21:53:41 GMT
so, wheels... I've run them on the ballancer (@ 'work') and all are round - suprisingly! some tome with a brush & 'wheel acid' and the brake-dust etc. is now washed off  next is to sandblast the centres as the rims are in good condition so will use gaffa-tape as sacrificial protection there.. Dry-sump is a go pump arrived today as a jigsaw of 10000000 pieces, easily assembled while inspecting the parts for wear & damage - all looks good & the pump turns easily once built  its a 3-stage pump with (from the pulley backwards) 2 'scavange' sections siameese'd to a single outlet (can be used as 2 outlets if required?) and a single pressure section at the rear with the pressure-relief valve at the rear.  'engine' side, the 2 metal pipes are the 'scavange' from the sump.  the threaded fitting is the scavange from the oil reservoir into the pressure section.  the 'outside'.  easily accessed pressure-relief valve adjuster.  pulley secured with an allenbolt, the drive is via a wudruff-key on a parallel shaft into the pulley.  as used pumps go, this one shows no wear! usually the pulleys have visable tooth damage from the rubber drive-belts especially if used in dirty or dusty environments. now to 'find' a steel sump pan from a Mazda 323 (gtx?) to fabricate the 'dry' sump pan from as I don't trust a welded / thin 'die-cast' aluminium standard Mx5 pan.... Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Jul 2, 2020 0:25:41 GMT
I think I'm going to buy you a new potato for christmas lol |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 2, 2020 10:49:12 GMT
I think I'm going to buy you a new potato for christmas lol the outer lens / cover fell off my IPOS* after one of the many dropsies think its had at least 1 new screen each month over the last 4 years so due an upgrade and yes, I can destroy a phone in a mil-spec hardcase  Rich. IPOS* - I Piece Of S hit - iphone6s |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 2, 2020 11:36:20 GMT
I think I'm going to buy you a new potato for christmas lol the outer lens / cover fell off my IPOS* after one of the many dropsies think its had at least 1 new screen each month over the last 4 years so due an upgrade and yes, I can destroy a phone in a mil-spec hardcase Rich. IPOS* - I Piece Of S hit - iphone6smust add, sometimes I use my mrs's new phone as it can take a usefull photo, just don't think about it when she's near & most photo's are when I'm in the garage... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 4, 2020 0:31:51 GMT
so, little done but did fit the spacers between each throttlebody, middle pair have smaller & outer pairs have slightly larger. I made these lastyear! (yup, I've been fiddlin with this setup for a while )  below.  top.  side. now need to make some longer bolts to clamp the tb's togther, the standard Hayabusa bolts are ~30mm too short! I've been looking at throttle cable / linkages, probably going to copy the design that Jenvey use & maybe use a larger diameter quadrant on the tb's throttle-spindle for a more progressive action (motorcycles rarely have a long & progressive throttle action, more like an on-off throttle!) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 4, 2020 7:31:14 GMT
Why have you placed the TB’s so far from the manifold, I would have had the long tract before the butterflies.
I assume it is related to mounting them with the adapters?
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) are gen1 Hayabusa & Gsxr750, Gsxr750 use 4 short & Hayabusa use a pair of short with a pair of long.
le sigh