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Post by Zed. on Jun 3, 2020 21:36:23 GMT
fitted the seal kits / rebuilt the cylinders I've been playing with the brake-pedal length / ratio & trying to keep the standard 'swing' radius of the pedal-pad although the cylinders only have a maximum travel of 1" (25mm) so probably not a problem anyway Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 10, 2020 12:24:58 GMT
okey, more sideways progress.............. I wanted a 'real' oilpressure gauge so bought one... as part of a wiring simplification the origonal Mazda /Yazaki gauge will be replaced in the cluster so wanted one with similar font / face to oem, Lucas make one thats close enough for me (although I've an 'Elliot' / Racers Hardware 0-10k tacometer so this is a moot point anyway ) but I want it in the cluster not as an extra in the consul or elseware... adapt, overcome & get medevel with it removed the 'glass' & bezel then tried in a spare plastic cluster housing, didnt fit... so, adjusted with a hacksaw... before the next photo, I must mention that I wanted to remove the gauge 'guts' or internals to fit in the cluster but this type have the 'face' mounted to the body not the 'workings' hence the bodging... it fits, now to 'adjust' the plastic behind to allow fitment... not the neatest but it's a spare cluster & will not be seen...... the 'finished' or trial cluster, will play with the earlier cluster I'm using (has less lights so less wieght!) and decide on if I'm using the nylon piping supplied in the gauge 'kit' box or to make stainless / braided hose with screwed fittings (look faster??) Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Jun 10, 2020 16:48:04 GMT
That is awesome - it looks virtually OEM! Would it not have been easier to buy a secondhand cluster with the 'real' oil pressure gauge already in it, though? lol Does the petrol gauge usually sit that far down when it's empty, though??
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Post by Zed. on Jun 10, 2020 17:38:41 GMT
That is awesome - it looks virtually OEM! Would it not have been easier to buy a secondhand cluster with the 'real' oil pressure gauge already in it, though? lol Does the petrol gauge usually sit that far down when it's empty, though?? my intention was for subtle replacement but the revcounter spoils that idea anyway, real? as in the oem electronic 'sorta' pressure gauge? I've just removed one of them from that cluster & have a few more 'spare' that I'll be advertising shortly (with the suitable sender) and the fuel gauge needle has given up the will to live (like the tacometer's needle 'stop' pin Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 12, 2020 18:43:23 GMT
more tangental movement (not progress) tripped over a pre-loved Elliot LC80 (0-10k) tacometer, Racetech oilpressure gauge & some switches (from a Talbot Sunbeam rallycar, on ebay) so they landed today, tested the gauge (it works / is accurate) and then temp-wired the tacometer into the 5.... it works I'm impressed, was expecting it to be effed.... so, now I've the choice of the white faced Elliot (branded 'Racers Hardware' on the faceplate) or this black faced Elliot choices otherwise, no more progress... Rich.
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Post by atlex on Jun 12, 2020 20:09:50 GMT
beautiful tach
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Post by wannabe on Jun 12, 2020 21:22:11 GMT
I like the black tacho - looks more OEM and clearer/easier to read at a glance.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 12, 2020 22:56:09 GMT
I like the black tacho - looks more OEM and clearer/easier to read at a glance. sorta agree about this, the 'other' one (thats in the car) has a 'telltale' so you can check previous overrev efforts so is sorta usefull..... Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Jun 13, 2020 8:20:27 GMT
I’ve always like a telltale tach, one doesn’t always have ones eyes on the tacho during thrashes..
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Post by moclan on Jun 13, 2020 13:45:55 GMT
okey, more sideways progress.............. so, adjusted with a hacksaw... it fits, now to 'adjust' the plastic behind to allow fitment... Rich. I like your definition of "adjust" but you know what? It looks great!
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Post by Zed. on Jun 13, 2020 17:58:58 GMT
lots of things suffer with 'adjustment' anyway, playing pedalbox and making plates to have welded to the diff carrier this afternoon, no photos Bias pedalbox fun is revolving around improving the pedal-cylinder ratio as the standard ratio is 4:1, this is fine with servo assistance but on a non-assisted pedal/cylinder this will be somewhat hard with little feedback (think driving the car with the engine off? ) so I'm trying to increase the pedal ratio to around 5:1 and also keep the pedal's 'foot pad' in the origonal position AND minimise the cylinder-pushrod's 'ARC' as the AP Racing master cylinders dont allow a lot of pushrod deflection (although they also only have a 1" maximum stroke so this might not be too much of an issue ) lots of measure/draw/measure/draw etc. think its sorted now so will make (bodge-weld) a prototype from an origonal pedal tomorow Rich.
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Post by moclan on Jun 13, 2020 18:09:37 GMT
saw a thing facebook where a guy drilled out the clutch axle on the pedal box and installed 2 bearings to get rid of the sloppiness, don't know if it's worth it but now would be the time
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Post by Zed. on Jun 13, 2020 19:38:25 GMT
I've a few pedalboxes, both brake & clutch so will be building the best of the collection the pedal pivot is a bolt with a steel tube sleeve with nylon / plastic 'tophat' shaped bushes fitted into a tube-sleeve in the pedal, of all the pedals I've seen (& got) none are badly worn brake / throttle pedalboxes cracked or badly repaired being a diferent matter though Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 14, 2020 21:58:03 GMT
played with pedals today, used a potato to take photo's (sorry) also made strengthening-plates for the diff mount but not welded as having power issues :-( I've tack-welded a brake-pedal pivot bolt onto the table & scribed pedal 'swing' arc's for a few diferent ratio pedals, eventually settled on a dog-legged pedal giving 5.5:1 ratio but will need to weld new metal into the pedalbox to allow the new / lower & foreward pivot position. sorta shows (badly) what I've been messing with... Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Jun 16, 2020 18:18:19 GMT
pedal progression photo... now onto making the 'box for it all to work in.... Rich.
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