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Post by dadbif on May 6, 2020 5:56:02 GMT
I could suspend some rusty bolts in a pint of Abbot as a test, but it would be a waste...
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Post by Zed. on May 6, 2020 9:43:33 GMT
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Post by dadbif on May 6, 2020 11:24:19 GMT
John Smiths is great for removing brake dust from alloy wheels. On NO ACCOUNT DRINK IT!!
I agree about Wadworth, but preferably draft
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Post by Zed. on May 6, 2020 17:47:43 GMT
so, on the subject of rust removal, heres 20 hours or so in the tub...       the rusted coolant jacket, starting to clean up, unfortunately this engine had been left standing with water in the block so it's somewhat rusteee  to cast the Hardblok in the lower section of the waterjacket ideally it needs to be clean for better adhesion.  one of the coreplug holes on the inlet side of the block, some rust visable. so, in for another day soak...  also soaking a pair of front & rear top wishbones, sure way to de-rust BUT will there be anything left of them   other work, I've removed the 4.778:1 diff from the alloy housing to sandblast and remove the rubber bushings, I'm tempted to have some strengthening plates welded on (but unsure if its needed? also that moves the 'fuse' further up the driveline  ) and I'm going to sandblast the sump before looking into baffling (or making baffles  ) subject of sumps.... I've got a 'dry' sump pan to fabricate for a Toyota 4age engine (for a friends mk2 Escort rallycar) sonan eaby 'find' was a sensibly priced used 'drysump' pan from a Ford crossflow / BDA type engine (wrongly listed as for a 'Pinto'  ) so that will be the pattern & save some measuring as well as being sellable afterwards. curiosity made me compare it to the Mazda alloy sump & the Ford item is longer but same width & depth (@ front above steering rack area) - food for thought....  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 7, 2020 19:51:03 GMT
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Post by atlex on May 7, 2020 20:22:49 GMT
Looking beautiful. Pressure wash the block and see if it shifts the remainder ? mud doesn't look at orange imo.
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Post by Zed. on May 7, 2020 20:27:37 GMT
I'm going to pull it out in the morning (cylinderblock  ) and rinse it, might run it through the 'partswasher' and maybe take it to my mates garage (work) for jetwash / high-pressure steamclean although I do agree it dont look like mud might put a length of speedo-cable inner cable in the drill & use it as a flail to hopefully dislodge the stuff  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 8, 2020 20:10:03 GMT
back to the cylinderblock..... it's out of the acid solution, hosed down with tapwater & in the 'partswasher'* with the sump (cleaned & sandblasted) on the top shelf will see what it looks like in an hour Rich. *dishwasher |
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Post by Zed. on May 8, 2020 23:22:26 GMT
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Post by Zed. on May 9, 2020 9:31:42 GMT
 daylight photo...  I was considering 'DIY' annodising for the sump, diff case & camcover but think this finish is enough...... untill my next round of stupidity Rich. |
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Post by niklas on May 9, 2020 20:04:50 GMT
In Sweden, we have a combined slang word that is villhöver. It is a combination of want and need.
Every time I visit this thread I villhöver more tools.
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Post by Zed. on May 9, 2020 21:12:17 GMT
In Sweden, we have a combined slang word that is villhöver. It is a combination of want and need. Every time I visit this thread I villhöver more tools. Ha. Think I understand everytime I get an idea / see something interesting or usefull / read peoples build treads (yours included niklas) I get the same feeling, probably why I'm broke & have a workshop & 3 sheds full of stuff  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 26, 2020 23:16:12 GMT
sorta lackof update time... I've been fiddlin with some bits & pieces but feelin like crap has put a dampner on work (& play) back to the bias pedalbox... just had a delivery care of ebay, a pair of AP Racing mastercylinders, these are the 'CP2623 type with a .625" bore (as front) and a .700" (as rear) apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/flange-mounted-types/vertical-flange-types/cp2623-type?switch=0 the cylinders I've bought are used but in excellent condition (already stripped & inspected), new seal 'rebuild kits' are ~£13 each so I'll pop a set in as a 'cheap' precaution. also these have fitted reservoirs, they screw into the cyluinder body as a tall / thin tube, theyre available in several lengths cheaply (have the shorter but can easily swap) these are tiny, ~80mm long from mount face to end apracing.com/cdn/drawings/cp2623-1cd.pdfAP Racing have a wealth of information on the website, a 'line pressure comparison chart' - interesting reading! apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/line-pressure-comparison so, now I've no excuses and will slide some pedalbox fiddlin in between the Lotus Cortina & mk2 Escort RS200 work  NEXT... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on May 27, 2020 18:58:14 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Jun 2, 2020 11:53:14 GMT
okey, more 'lack of progress'...  Volvo 240/740 coolant expansion tank has landed, trial fit looks good  now waiting for hose-joiners / tee-pieces to arrive to plumb. mastercylinder rebuild kits have arrived, 2 genuine AP Racing kits from Demon Tweeks, 1 x CP2623-90RK (.625") and 1 x CP2623-91RK (.700") for £27.40 posted. each kit contains 5 items, main piston seal(4), main seal shim(5) & secondry seal (7), dust boot(11), circlip(10).  will refresh these later  I'd also ordered a new set of propshaft-diff flange bolts, not cheap but genuine (Autolink @ £31.66) so can now replace these today I've ordered £125 worth of braided hose fittings & pipe (Rally Design), time to replace the lines on the car & also make new underbonnet for the new m/cylinder conversion I've bought 'banjo' fittings as a neater option, also can 'stack' a pair to feed left & right front, I'm undecided on fitting a hydraulic handbrake but will run the braided hose through the car with enough 'extra' to allow breaking-into the line in the future also, I've bought some fittings to make a braided line to feed a 'real' oilpressure guage, will be replacing the electronic standard Mazda item so with the choice of a nylon or braided pipe I couldn't resist probably more to say but I've been busy fiddlin with the Lotus...  hour here & an hour there, slowly getting there (good thing I'm not being paid hourly for this!)  the exhaust manifold & thermostat housing were only placed on for schitz&giggles... a new thermostat housing will be going on as that one is corroded beyond use. Rich. |
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to cast the Hardblok in the lower section of the waterjacket ideally it needs to be clean for better adhesion.
) and I'm going to sandblast the sump before looking into baffling (or making baffles 
)
) and rinse it, might run it through the 'partswasher' and maybe take it to my mates garage (work) for jetwash / high-pressure steamclean 
le sigh