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Post by Zed. on Sept 15, 2020 19:35:59 GMT
You do realize that I expect wide slicks on this car. Not many dry sump 5's out there. Ha. wide tyres = friction, wind resistance & unsprung wieght also, 1.6 normally asperated so not massive power............... maybe Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 18, 2020 22:13:24 GMT
lack-of progress report.... the bulkhead drilling jig for the bias pedalbox, please excuse the terrible finish (rough as a badgers A rse as the foreman would say when I was an apprentace ) the machined surface is to spiggot into the origonal Mazda bulkhead 'servo' hole and the tag to position it on the pedalbox's bulkhead mount stud. the 'pedal' side, 1/8" pilot holes. now I've no excuses to not fit this lot up onto the car Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 20, 2020 19:29:59 GMT
so, add lightness........ pedalbox out & brake mastercylinder / servo removed and not going back in. to remove the pedalbox, the column was removed, easier with the standard column but the eps setup was a little heavier loads more room trying the drilling-jig, will it fit (& work???) thank fahk for that! the new mastercylinders are about the same size as the clutch master, will look empty under there. can see the lower bolthole below the jig-plate, should not be an issue as I'm pilot-drilling 1/8" through the jig then probably open to. the 8mm clearance with a step-drill. think I'll sandblast & paint another clutch pedalbox & paint to match the brake setup.... more to follow, drilling tomorow. Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 21, 2020 21:29:00 GMT
add lightness... holes drilled & filed as the step-drill wandered slightly pedalbox fits lightened the car, chopped some dashboard off bits removed... bulkhead plate. seamsealer & aerosol 'wheel silver' as it was handy cylinders fitted. lots more room! using the right hand cylinder for the front system, think it's neater to have front braided hose splitting accross the car with the rear circuit feeding through the bulkhead and rumming inside the car to the rear... *might* swap cylinders so front nrar the wheelarch. now to remove un-needed wiring & maybe shift the relay box (or its contents) inside the car... tomorow I'll try to fit the pedal & ballancebar then start plumbing... Deep joy. Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 28, 2020 13:49:42 GMT
today I bought a bolt...... as explination, the standard Mazda crank / pulley bolt is m14 / 1.5 pitch, the head has a washer as part of it & this is too large to fit inside the bore of the drysump drive pulley I have (leftover from a Vauxhall 20XE drysump kit from ~15 years ago) too big, suppose I could machine the diameter but I am wary of altering bolts as can alter their strengths / properties... new allen head bolts are cheap and available in several tensile strengths... I bought 1 bolt (£6.38 posted - ebay laziness) M14 / 1.5 pitch, 50mm long and 12.9 Grade. I will machine a suitable washer for this or maybe look at Schnoor or Nordlock as locking washers the drive fits as shown, interestingly it has a similar (although un-measured) spiggot diameter that is an interfearance fit in the Mazda outer pulley, also a cuttout that accepts the crankshaft's feather key - some luck there I'm still using the 'test' lump of aluminium to position the pump, also the pump lives in a ziplock bag to combat moisture while I'm fiddlin..... another consideration is to have a smaller crankshaft pulley for the waterpump / alternator belt, as this is a budget build & I'm a cheepskate hoarder a little diggin found an alloy pulley from a Ford 'Pinto' waterpump 'polly-vee' drive kit so this may get altered to fit the Mazda engine - benefits include no rubber bonded 'damper' in the pulley that can fail & cause imballance and also reduced waterpump & alternator rotational speeds (especially good as overspeed water pump impellors can cavitate and loose efficentcy) more lack-of progress to follow, one day Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 29, 2020 11:16:35 GMT
another adhd fuelled wander off on a tangent..... I'd ordered an oblong headlight on ebay & its landed, even came with h4 and sidelight bulbs! can either be 'pod' or panel mounted, gives more scope for fitment in the 5 as can be lazy & bolt the pod into the headlamp frame although I may go for panel-mount as can easily make a section to fit... lightwieght plastic reflector, 388g lens / bulb & rubber seal (no pod in that wieght) found lens dimensions, storing here for reference... will have a fiddle..... Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 29, 2020 14:50:29 GMT
had 5 mins earlier.... pulled the 7" koyo lamp, lowered the mount & placed the oblong lamp in... bit diferent, also realised I can shunt the lamp outwards slightly the lamp will be moved rearwards ~2" to clear the slam-panel... looks to be an easy adapter panel to make, possibly use the oem headlight adjuster screws to mount it cad (cardboard aided design) to follow, this is mocked-up using a screwdriver NOT screws I've a spare pair of lamp mounts so will experement with them, intrestingly, the mounts on the car are red & have electronic hight adjusters so are from a newer / higher option spec car thinking time now.... Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Sept 29, 2020 20:06:44 GMT
another tangent (well back to drysump) managed to find a steel sump to fit the B6 engine as 5's have a thinwall die-cast aluminium item that might be a bit of a pain to weld so migweld & braze on steel for me standard 5 alloy sump & 323 steel sump. the mx5 sump has a 'windage-tray' that I've dropped into the steel pan, this gives an idea if how much will be kept as the metal below will go in the bin... on the left is a drysump pan for comparison, I will be replicating this onto the Mazda steel pan's top 'lip'. this is for a Ford crossflow / Lotus tc / BDA etc. and they are a bit longer! the profile from the rear. inbuilt windage tray. the pickup (scavange) trough. the trough will be replicated but I'll be adding a second at the front. Rich.
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Post by wannabe on Sept 30, 2020 22:11:35 GMT
had 5 mins earlier.... Now your car has a face like this: LOL
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Post by Zed. on Oct 1, 2020 19:59:23 GMT
more drysump fiddlin.... did the crank pulley thing... the pulley needs drilling for the fasteners, tomorows job.... can see the keyway aligned with the outer / drysump belt pulley - stroke of luck there &. also the pulleys interfearance fit an added bonus fitted. need a shorter belt now, the standard size & 'thinned' pulleys are visable for comparison... more to follow... Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 2, 2020 11:18:11 GMT
had some AN12 aluminium bulkhead fittings for the drysump 'scavange' plumbing from pump to reservoir & back. these were used fittings to save a bit of cash (ebay again), £24 for the lot as opposed to ~£10+ each 3 x 90* bulkhead. 2 x straight bulkhead. 5 x locknuts. 5 x gland nuts (probably will not use these...) 5 x nipples. next question is, stainless or black-nylon braided hose? this is still a 'budget' setup but it's starting to addup the ££££'s annoyingly, I've loads of BSP hydraulic fittings but the AN / -12 stuff is a bit alien to me will be using 1/2"bsp fittings & hose for the pressure lines & remote oilfilter plumbing so thats going to be painless Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 2, 2020 15:35:35 GMT
pulley drilled for the dowel & bolted, test-assembled and probably final assembled. no easy access to the allen bolts final fitted length, can see I've machined the Mazda pulley-hub ti reduce it's diameter to 80mm, this allows cambelt replacement without pulley removal as theres now clearance betwee the front-cover / old oilpump & the hub another hours fiddling towards finished.... can start on the pump mount now the drive is finalised. Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Oct 2, 2020 21:32:13 GMT
I only ever used the black braided hose
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Post by Zed. on Oct 2, 2020 22:32:10 GMT
I'm not too fussed on blinged up stainless hoses evrywhere, looks to ' Max Powah' to me shame is that the hose I have to use is just that luckily I can use old forklift hose for half of it Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 4, 2020 20:14:59 GMT
Just bought a chunk of delrin 80mm diameter & 178mm long to make solid diff mounts, I'm torn between aluminium or delrin but think the softer plastic will allow acceptance of vibration and impact better than the aluminium more work on the lathe Rich.
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