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Post by Zed. on Oct 7, 2020 21:55:02 GMT
more fiddlin, designing (badly sketching!) the drysump pan I'm trying to fit a front pickup trough but theres not much room below the sump as theres a steeringrack in the way, then had an idea as to lift the scavange into the sump itself at the front as theres space below the origonal oilpump / front cover..  dropped the shortnose 1600 crank nto the fwd tin sump to check space, have ~50mm from the inner / front face of the sump to the cranks rotating web.  plenty of room.  also turned a scrap piece of PEEK (I think?) as a test solid diff mount,  rough sawn face on end :-O  also back to altering the exhaust manifold, turned the 'dummy' engine on the bench & fitted the bellhousing 'cut' from a scrap gearbox (cut to use as a setup tool for the multiplate clutch, more at a later date...) and mounted the block on wood & alloy spacers to level. this is to visualise the manifold's proximity to the engine mount & to access the area where I'll be making the drysump oilpump's mount (waiting for the alloy bar to arrive)  playing 'Wheres Wally' with the mount   theres Wally....  sorta touching & aiming at the crossmember, needs some bending.  from the front (dark side?) going to pack the tubes with sand & heat with a gas lamp to soften then persueda & hopefully it'll reshape without pipe collapsing  thinking positive.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 8, 2020 15:46:32 GMT
aluminium arived earlier, can get on with the oilpump mount now.   gonna be about there...  lump of pom / delrin also landed  more string / swarf making...  also, I'm fitting a replacement sparewheel well / boot floor in my '93 B3 Passat, luckily I had a body-cut from a car I'd chopped for panels (but didn't think I'd need this so it's a little small) mostly butt-welded but lapped on left & whats been done across rear. making the infill now (630mm / 45mm / 15mm lip section to fill.) no rest for the wicked  and... been offered another 5..... Rich. |
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Post by olionabike on Oct 10, 2020 13:19:28 GMT
1 mx5 is never enough... I'm currently eyeing on up over the road that's been sat for years, tempted to just put a letter through there door
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Post by Zed. on Oct 12, 2020 22:17:23 GMT
started making the oilpump bracket, I'd bought a 100x200x15mm piece of aluminiumas I'd rough-guessed it as a suitable starting point. drilled 6 x 10mm holes to suit the aircon pump bracket mount holes in the cylinderblock. test fit is good except I need to use countersunk bolting as the pump interferes with normal boltheads  tipically Mazda use m10x1.25 pitch bolting so I've either got to buy expensive csnk bolting or helicoil the cylinderblock to the common / conventional m10x1.5 pitch and I've a stock of csnk bolting for this  helicoiling the cylinderblock it is then   looks a bit big?   special delrin & aluminuim 'setup' spacers (whatever was to hand!)   managed to get the flash working! obviously I'll be using a shorter drivebelt, had a few of these spare so trial alignment purposes... more fiddlin & pump mounting once I've helicoiled the cylinderblock. Rich. |
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Post by olionabike on Oct 15, 2020 20:02:01 GMT
Looking good! Some decent fab work going on there, what's the end goal?
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Post by Zed. on Oct 15, 2020 21:20:18 GMT
Looking good! Some decent fab work going on there, what's the end goal? thanks & I've no idea origonally I was looking at road & maybe a few hillclimbs / sprints in the roadgoing classes then I tarted wandering off on many tangents... still the same direction but its evolved & I'm not sure what classes it can enter might try to afford a proper rollcage and get back into rallying BUT that adds way too much to the safety equipment costs so doubtfull  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 15, 2020 21:49:27 GMT
minor update post.... measure once....  trial-fit of the oilpump (one bolt as a test, the bracket is to setup then a new thicker one will be made)    so, my guesstemation / measurement / pencil-mark was a little off  basically the pump is ~10mm to far to the rear so the belt is not central in the pump pulley ffs. easily remidied as I can drill a new hole 10mm foreward to test. back to the bias braking, the pedal is fitted & the ballance-bar connects the f&r cylinders to the pedal.  I've swapped cylinders so the front .625" is nearest the innerwing & the rear .700" is in the middle / next to the clutch master as (after a rethink  ) I think the plumbilg will be neater... can also see the pen-marks on the top bulkhead for drilling to mount an early rhd wipermotor (seem to be same as lhd!) to give more room for the oiltank when it is fitted in the bulkhead.  pedal assembly.   the ballancebar & dash-adjuster connected to the pedal & cylinders. time to start making braided hoses & decide their routing around the car. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 16, 2020 22:50:42 GMT
more fiddlin... mocked up the oilpumps fittings to check sizes & for clearance issues.  the 2 lower steel sump scavange pipes will be colse to the origonal Mazda alloy sump level around the steering rack area so I've decided to lift the pump up 10mm to gain some clearance. also in debate is the pressure sides scavange from the reservoir tank, the threaded aluminium fittings (seen on thee rear / pressure section) I had with the pump are 5/8"bsp whereas I'm using -12 / AN12 for the reservoir's feed/return and for the pumps pressure output like to use 1/2"bsp as I've plenty of fittings, pipe & remote filter housings in this thread...  shows the space between the pumps output fittings that the waterpumps inlet pipe will run, I'm making a steel plate & pipe manifold to connect to a rubber hose so it can be talored to fit... one step foreward.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 17, 2020 11:13:17 GMT
minor sidetrack time...  the early wipermotor I had from a 1989 partscar was a bit scruffy so I removed the motor cover to de-rust, it was sandblasted & painted.. although maybe the gearbox should have been sandblasted also next... Rich. |
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Post by olionabike on Oct 17, 2020 22:15:57 GMT
minor sidetrack time... the early wipermotor I had from a 1989 partscar was a bit scruffy so I removed the motor cover to de-rust, it was sandblasted & painted.. although maybe the gearbox should have been sandblasted also next... Rich. As good as new š |
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Post by scottydugg on Oct 18, 2020 13:08:40 GMT
I have seen people remove the waterpump and go to a Tailgate McNoIndicate electric waterpump. Could save you worrying about clearance.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 18, 2020 13:49:09 GMT
I have seen people remove the waterpump and go to a BMW electric waterpump. Could save you worrying about clearance. read back ~13 pages & I discuss it! mighty5s.com/thread/2681/50-shades-silver-na-eunos?page=14&scrollTo=43170actually have 2 BMW pumos & loads of wiring stuff downloaded. theres some good info on Australian forums re ewp's & Davis-Craig have been making them as aftermarket items for ~30 years main issue is location, for initial build I'm staying with a belt driven system also... mighty5s.com/post/45049/thread Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Oct 19, 2020 11:14:17 GMT
I have seen people remove the waterpump and go to a BMW electric waterpump. Could save you worrying about clearance. read back ~13 pages & I discuss it! mighty5s.com/thread/2681/50-shades-silver-na-eunos?page=14&scrollTo=43170actually have 2 BMW pumos & loads of wiring stuff downloaded. theres some good info on Australian forums re ewp's & Davis-Craig have been making them as aftermarket items for ~30 years main issue is location, for initial build I'm staying with a belt driven system also... mighty5s.com/post/45049/thread Rich. At least I'm consistent with my suggestions |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 20, 2020 13:41:00 GMT
Skint now... spent out c/o ebay again..... bought a pair of 887161219A....  cheaper than autolink also better than having a gap around the heater pipes been on my xmas list for a while Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Oct 20, 2020 14:41:15 GMT
Well worth the expense
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) I think the plumbilg will be neater...
le sigh