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Post by Zed. on Oct 20, 2020 21:50:43 GMT
had another tangent today, back to the clutch. as I'm using a multiplate clutch I may need to limit the travel to save the possibility of clutch-cover's spring 'fingers' clashing with the top driven plate  possibly overthinking things but fail to prepare....... easily sorted on a 5 as Mazda fitted a travel-limit to the clutch pedal with a rubber buffer, I removed the buffer from the pedal, drilled the hole out to 6.5mm & ran an m8/1.25 second tap through to cut a thread.  this is adjustable for travel with anadjustable allen-bolt & locknut fitted.  another 'is it needed?' job done.  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 21, 2020 19:45:54 GMT
more sillyness... I've bought an AP Racing CP4623-90 master cylinder (evilbay again) apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/flange-mounted-types/offset-flange-type/cp4623-type?switch=2 with the intention of using as a handbrake cylinder BUT curiosity made me look at the clutch cylinder mount dimensions apracing.com/cdn/drawings/984-CP4623-cd.pdflooks to be close as not to make a diference  the -90 denotes 0.625" / 5/8" /16mm bore and the Mx5 uses a 16mm bore so comparable so looks like another braided hose to make then! these cylinders are like the CP2623 type I'm using for the brake sustem so have the option of remote or fitted (screwed) reservoirs, will have to decide on the best option as a remote reservoir could make more room around the throttlebodies BUT maybe neater with a fitted reservoir - will bolt the cylinder to the car & decide... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 24, 2020 11:38:46 GMT
new (old!) mastercylinders have landed, as they're used I'm going to buy seal / rebuild kits (~£13 each for genuine AP Racing).  tried a rosejoint on one & offered against a clutch pedalbox, sits slightly off vertical @ about 11.30 o'clock  . nothing's easy is it?   also, is it wrong to sandblast & paint a spare clutch slave cylinder?  or a propshaft... at least it's clean where the flanges meetr as are the bolting spotfaces   will find time to finish the delrin diff mounts this weekend hopefully.  due to a post on the fb / mx5itb page about cylinderhead port length I've taken a photo to add, obviously it'd be rude to not add it to this waffle  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 25, 2020 10:25:30 GMT
pair of seal-kits & fluid reservoir ordered for the master-cylinders, going with one for clutch (needs the reservoir) and one for the handbrake although I might not have a lever connected just the cylinder fitted & plumbed into the rear fluid line to future-proof the car  also spent an hour mentally plumbing the brake & clutch systems, then ordered another bundle of fittings for a full braided-flexi line install  22 'ends' plus copper sealing washers, banjo-bolts and a few metres of hose. chose plated steel over stainless due to my hatred of stainless as a fastening:yes: I'm refusing to count the costs for the plumbing (brakes & oiling)  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 27, 2020 23:18:42 GMT
ebay strikes again... cheap AP Racing 7 1/4" multiplate was spotted, a very cheeky offer was made & accepted  when it arrives I'll see if its in better or worse condition than the 2 others I have Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 28, 2020 12:24:55 GMT
'ends' have landed, well I went to collect as somehow missed the courier yesterday   some as stock spares and some to complete the car...  how the 'handbrake' cylinder will be plumbed, typically every fitting / thread in the brake system is m10, the fluid inlet on this cylinder is m12 so an oddity was needed now to decide where the handbrake cylinder will live, can be a bit tricky here as I can recess it into the gearbox tunnel in front of the standard handbrake lever (neat & out of the way) or do I go for a seperate lever to keep the cable and hydraulic systems indipendant obviously if I decide on a seperate hydro-handbrake lever this means deciding where it can live - another bloody decision Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 29, 2020 14:22:02 GMT
more pieces for the jigsaw have landed. the m/cylinder seal kits & reservoir are here, DemonTweeks via ebay and a few days delivery  will fit seals & look into making a cylinder fit the Mazda bulkhead & pedal...  another ebay sidetrack, AP Racing 7 1/4" multiplate clutch. was cheap enough that I couldn't say no these can handle more torque than I'll be playing with and have a lower rotating mass than conventional clutches so a win this one has the 'orange' pressure plate and 3-paddle plates so rated to ~310ft/lbs torque apracing.com/race-car/metallic-race-clutches/o184mm-7-types/cerametallicpaddle-types/a-ring-driven-clutches/cp2606-family-twin-2-plateI do have a few of these now, will use the best bits to build the 'one'   sectional design.  the seller advertised this as having been used on a normally-asperated Cosworth 'YB' engine so the driven plates have the 'Ford 1" / 23 spline. I will be using the organic-faced driven plates (made by Helix Atosport) as they have the correct spline size for the Mazda gearbox.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 30, 2020 16:13:13 GMT
more tangental thinking... bought some 8mm 'rosejoints'(rod-ends) to make anti-rollbar droplinks, pre made links are a little on the extravagant side of prices & I'm able to make my own for a significant saving - even if I add my time into the costing! I've gone for 8mm Joints for cost & size / weight, I believe the standard Mazda links use 10mm fastners so I'll either machine some small 'tophat' spacer-washers to take up the difference or just tack-weld 8mm penny washers onto the wishbones I'll drill & tap some 16mm diameter aluminium bar-stock to link a pair of joints with nylock nuts to fix the length. as to arb body mounts, I'm looking at nylon stock and making simmilar to industrial hydraulic pipe clamps (also widely used in the kitcar world) more waffle to follow... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 12, 2020 13:29:02 GMT
ebay again responsible for my financial losses.... bought £21 diff from a mk1 1.8 uk spec car  (photo from ebay advert) collected it on Monday from Pembroke (ish) so a ~120 mile roadtrip in my B3 Passat tdi @ 60+mpg - cheaper than postage & an escape from the house so a result I've stripped the diff from the alloy housing & its another 4.1:1 ratio so I'll pull the gears from the pigshead & prep the casings for whenever I 'find' the coverted 5.1:1 crownwheel & pinion unfortunately the 5.1:1 ratio is about as rare as going to a car show and finding something unique anyone want 4.1: gears? Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 13, 2020 15:44:02 GMT
more bits have landed, the ebay Fidanza adjustable cam pulleys.  these are marked with 94018 that corrisponds with Fidanza's p/number for the Mazda engine, oddly these are different as one has larger holes in the central section than the other   they've been used but not done much work as the outer-pulley's teeth have no wear in the anodising & just the lightest hint of marking that tallies with a belt's position... the centers have witness-marks from a cam-bolt's washer and also from the end of a cam. I'll strip, clean & degrease then locktite the bolts into the outer section, also I'll fit new washers as the ones fitted are dished / deformed from use. now time to 'find' some cams, these will not come from ebay as 'pre-loved' cheapies so thats going to be an expensive purchase (will order a pair of new ones as I doubt the standard cams can be re-ground to the size I fancy) Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 18, 2020 10:51:36 GMT
Damn you evilbay saw someone selling new genuine Mazda brake discs, the partnumbers looked to be mk2.5 sport big brake type so in went offers..... I'm expecting 4 different sized & fittment discs to arrive I have a set of 'sport' calipers in the shed, will dig them out & inspect..... also, this has (hopefully!) decided on the disc / caliper & wheel size also, back to the engine, made a a decision on timing reference, going for the Mazda 36/1 timing wheel that fits between crank-pulleys with a sensor mounted on the oilpump / front cover, as fitted to the 1999-2001 Mazda Protege. p/number ZM01-11-408  when it lands I'll have to re-measure & machine the pulley-setup I've adapted as theres now an extra ~3mm to consider NEXT! Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 20, 2020 14:29:21 GMT
decided there was zero chance of buying a Setrab AN12 oilcooler so going the el-cheapo method with one of my 'stock' 1/2"bspp threadded serk or mocal items.  AN12 male to accept the pipework and 1/2"bspp female with a tapered seat. its the little things that count up the pennies, thats £23 in that photo and I didn't buy them because of the colour now to buy pipe & 6 or 8 fittings with pipe @ £10-15 / m and ends @ £10+ each  . ^^ thats for the scavange side, will be using the cheaper 1/2" bsp hydraulic hoses for the pressure side Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Nov 21, 2020 1:58:35 GMT
If you ever sell your car, anyone working on it after buying it is going to be swearing at you and going 'wtf??' a lot lol |
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Post by batou on Nov 21, 2020 10:31:34 GMT
Nice, very underated mod for track cars even in non turbo form. What sandwich plate are you running for the oil cooler setup? If you ever sell your car, anyone working on it after buying it is going to be swearing at you and going 'wtf??' a lot lol This, I think I'd have run out of tools by this point |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 21, 2020 11:39:29 GMT
Nice, very underated mod for track cars even in non turbo form. What sandwich plate are you running for the oil cooler setup? erm, just feeding into the engine so not using the conventional sandwich plate setup, still undecided as to remote oilfilter as it's easier but more pipework & takes up more room not that having a big oilpump hanging off the exhaust side of the engine obviously doesn't make for a messy install  re-thinking the mount slightly, pam fi duw?  Rich. |
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. nothing's easy is it?
. 
le sigh