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Post by Zed. on Nov 21, 2020 12:41:56 GMT
back onto the Bias braking again, been looking for a Tilton or AP Racing bias adjuster for a while, no other reason than snobbishness as the 'el-cheapo' generic adjuster I already have will work fine anyway anyway, ebay again responsible for my financial irresponsibility & today a secondhand Tilton adjuster arrived unfortunately, to get it cheap enough I had to buy a complete pedalbox with the adjuster, ballance-bar and a pair of Tilton cylinders BUT these will either be re-purposed or sold... more junk in the collection Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 21, 2020 22:49:11 GMT
more junk in the collection all that work for a knob Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Nov 22, 2020 8:41:21 GMT
You just want the knob with the logo?
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Post by Zed. on Nov 22, 2020 11:37:52 GMT
You just want the knob with the logo? well, your point is? better than the plain aluminium type I've got in the car and easier to grip on those rare occasions you need to twiddle would prefer one of the AP Racing type but they're 1, expensive and 2, uncommon in my budget/secondhand so this will do and because it turned up @ the right price mustn't stop a man from playing with his knob Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 22, 2020 14:03:37 GMT
Too much knob in this thread...
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Post by Zed. on Nov 22, 2020 14:58:46 GMT
Too much knob in this thread... Okey, in an effort to offset the ammount of Knob...... I've just made an offer on a Hayabusa drysump kit as I need a few fittings and having another pump to choose whichever is better makes sense, also because it was a cheeky offer so cheap enough to have as stock. the kit as bought, the Hayabusa specific parts will go on a shelf for that 'rainy day' but fittings & possibly the pump will be considered for the Mazda install Pace 3 stage (2 sump scavange & 1 pressure) pump... or do I fit a Hayabusa engine in the 5 Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 22, 2020 14:59:52 GMT
and yes, I'm spending too much time, effort, thought & money on this car Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 23, 2020 16:47:18 GMT
damn you ebay, more bits to fit... Genuine Mazda mk2.5 front & rear discs took a gamble on partnumbers & offers were made, all 4 corners for the price of 1 always amuses me that Mazda specc'd larger diameter for the rear now to rebuild the calipers OR buy 4pots Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 23, 2020 18:18:53 GMT
Haha, so bigger disks on the rear for more thermal capacity / surface area to work with but your fitting a bias valve to use less or more of them....? Yup, makes sense to me
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Post by Zed. on Nov 23, 2020 19:07:56 GMT
fitting a bias valve to use less or more of them....? well, it's two seperate mastercylinders feeding seperate brake circuits with adjustable pedal - cylinder 'bias' to trim the brake effort f/r not uing a simple bais-valve to restrict flow to the rear circuit Rich.
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Post by batou on Nov 23, 2020 19:35:52 GMT
fitting a bias valve to use less or more of them....? well, it's two seperate mastercylinders feeding seperate brake circuits with adjustable pedal - cylinder 'bias' to trim the brake effort f/r not uing a simple bais-valve to restrict flow to the rear circuit Rich. Absolutely, just I also find it odd the rears are bigger too. With that much adjustment you'll have a lot to think about I bet!
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Post by Zed. on Nov 27, 2020 12:56:53 GMT
Hayabusa drysump bits have arrived the pump is actually a bigger version of the one I already have so I might use that by bigger I mean it has longer 'scavange' sections so in theory will be able to 'suck' more from the sump / crankcase - although nothing is free and more pump / suck means more power to drive it internally it's good, theres some scoring but nothing drastic (I've never seen a used pump without any!) so I'll do some measuring and maybe a test run with a bucket of oil & a drill to turn the pump more fun..... Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 28, 2020 22:24:39 GMT
the 36/1 timing disc has landed, bought through ebay USA, cost £26 delivered & between purchase / delivery was 8 days maybe I could have sourced through local Stealerships but my experience is its probably cheaper internationally! missing 1 tooth but easy to remove another for 36/2 profile also started collecting oil pipe 'ends, AN10 (pressure) and AN12 for scavange, also fighting the urge to get a Laminova oil / coolant heat exchanger as opposed to a conventional oil air cooler radiator. - more money NEXT. Rich.
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Post by Zed. on Nov 29, 2020 22:31:59 GMT
so, as I'm going to be using those silly posh aluminium oil hose fittings I've bought a pair of vice softjaws to aid assembly ebay photo... a 'how-to' if anyone is intrested? speedflow.co.uk/hose-end-fitting/I've also bought an AN10-m20 nipple to connect the pressure hose into the engine's origonal oilfilter port as I'm fitting a remote filter. running AN10 fittings / -10 hose for the pressure pipework from pump to filterhousing then to the engine. I'm trying to decide where to put the remote oilfilter housing in the cars enginebay, the oilpump ill be on the engine's exhaust side so an oilpipe will have to cross to the drivers side of the enginebay to feed into the engine (I'm afraid it will make for a scruffy install as it will run between the radiator & engine?) so probably on the side of the chassis rail below the drivers headlight retract motor? who'd have thought building this setup could take so much planning Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Nov 30, 2020 8:12:04 GMT
I used to use an angle grinder with a very thin slitting disc to cut the hose, the outer sleeving is a bastard and if you don’t Spikey Canoe your fingers you’re a lucky man. Put some masking tape on your spanner jaws to save the fancy anodising on the super expensive unions. Is there nowhere on the chassis rail where you can position the remote filter housing? The Mocal one that I used needed a vertical face for the bracket to bolt to. This was on an XE in a Westfield, not Mazda.
Sorry, I’m talking crap, I used the sleeved lines on my fuel system, the remote oil filter lines were high pressure rubber.
Brain fade pre first caffeine injection.
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