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Post by Zed. on Apr 4, 2021 17:22:22 GMT
thought I'd try the Wilwood Dynalite / Supermiata Boxmount bracket and ND Mx5 280mm disc combo in some of my wheels, bit late but....  7x15" et 35 Compomotive MO.  plenty of clearance tro the rim.  plenty of clearance from the spokes.  so these are a go. (even though these wheels are heavy)  also have Mazda fit Enkei 6x15" et 36 and much lighter than the MO's...  bit of an issue with the spokes.  but a small (~3mm?) spacer will allow these to work and not mess up the geometry / scrub-radius or unsprung weight.  loads of room to the inside of the rim. now to sort some spacers... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 4, 2021 20:33:28 GMT
had a spare 10 mins so stripped the sump off the 323turbo (B6t) engine & removed the conrods & pistons. the engine came to me complete but as an unknown so untill the head was lifted I didn't know if it was a genuine turbo motor.  the real deal. Mazda's strengthened turbo conrods  .  conrod bearing shell, looks as new & unworn)  yet to check but believed to be standard size. the crankpins look in good condition but unknown untill measured for taper or ovality.  removed a piston from a rod to compare to a standard / normally asperated Mx5 B6ze(rs) conrod & piston.  somewhat different.  conrods.  conrod caps, the turbo rod has larger diameter bolts/nuts securing the cap.  another view.  slightly thicker web above the bearing area.  na rod over turbo rod.  another view.  these are strong rods, shame I'm going to use Honda B16 rods & pistons   na piston (top) & turbo piston (bottom).  standard Mx5 na piston.  B6t piston, no drillings for oil-control ring drainage.  B6ze(rs) mx5 conrod.  B6t conrod.  B6ze(rs) conrod & piston (no pistonrings)  B6t conrod & piston.  the Honda B16 conrod & piston for comparison, unfortunately heavier than the B6ze(rs) / standard mx5 setup but the longer rod & intruder piston will hopefully make up for this..... more to come... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 4, 2021 21:39:07 GMT
just found a few other B6/B6t photo's that I think are sorta important... I forgot the piston crown differences between na & turbocharged.  B6ze(rs) Jdm 115hp 'high compression' piston.  the B6t 'low compression' / turbocharged piston.  slightly different view trying to show the 6mm deep dished crown. and I forgot to weigh the B6t piston (but it's lighter). Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 5, 2021 7:13:35 GMT
So, is the 323 bottom end, fitted with standard 1.6 pistons compatible with a 1.6 head?
Probably simpler to ask could one fit 323 turbo rods to a 1.6 engine.
If so why do we need to purchase aftermarket conn rods?
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Post by Zed. on Apr 5, 2021 9:49:49 GMT
So, is the 323 bottom end, fitted with standard 1.6 pistons compatible with a 1.6 head? the mx5's origonal 115hp 1.6L is a 'detuned' (not 100% accurate but...) version of the B6t, the pistons / rods / exhaust cam & exhaust valves differ. aledgedly the cylinderheads are the same (I have one and it looks identical  ) but possibly better cast ports & coolant pasageways as the mould dies would be unworn due to being the first few years of production. Probably simpler to ask could one fit 323 turbo rods to a 1.6 engine yes. probably not needed in most normally asperated road engines but theres a weight penalty as they're something Mazda decided to lighten for the Mx5 experience turbocharged Mx5's can use standard rods reliably around ~200 hp. Mazda decided that the (~150hp?) 323 turbo needed these heavier / stronger rods as an insurance policy and also for competition / homologation legality where power was expected to be increased If so why do we need to purchase aftermarket conn rods? need or NEED? probably 50% of the chineese 'forged' rods are bought because they're seen on social media & because a ' built' engine sounds good  also, wtf is a ' built' engine?I've built plenty of things but never class anything as ' built' then theres 'all motor'  wtf....... Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 5, 2021 21:18:59 GMT
“Built” is the new “blueprinted”......
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Post by Zed. on Apr 5, 2021 21:38:05 GMT
“Built” is the new “blueprinted”...... thought it was an excuse to assist someone with their bank ballance Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 5, 2021 22:27:03 GMT
in the workshop earlier & realised I've been ignoring the engine lately so took a photo to try & force some interest...  okey, I'm lying slightly as I've been working on some internal mods with another cylinderblock (measure once etc.) anyway, inspiration & mess in one image.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 19, 2021 10:20:23 GMT
removed the clutch hydraulic cylinders & pipework, what a conveluted route....  the flexi-pipe mount that is secured with the startermotor bolt was a pig but eventually relented... now have access to the bulkhead to plumb the rear & front passanger brake pipework as they're both passing into the passanger compartment & the front line will run accross to the opposite side.  temporary braided hoses fitted to plan the routing. also shows proximity of the relocated wipermotor to the brake fluid reservoir, luckily I had an early (~1989/90) item as it points the same direction as the lhd model. more to come (when I've decided on routing & interaction) Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 19, 2021 14:04:25 GMT
Struggled with the same bracket, I left mine till the box came off!
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Post by dickie on Apr 19, 2021 15:42:16 GMT
I have a goodridge braided hose on my clutch. Its from self assembly parts.
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Post by Zed. on Apr 19, 2021 18:50:31 GMT
I have a goodridge braided hose on my clutch. Its from self assembly parts. never guess what I've been fiddlin with earlier  playing with ideas, trial build with a short convex (straight) fitting on the slave-cylinder (can we say slave now?  ) and a guesswork pipe length that's suprisingly close, trying to decide on either a nipple in the master cylinder & a female swivel fitting or a banjo setup of some description... if I do use a banjo I might fit a nipple / female swivel at the lower end.... ALSO, the M/cylinder has an M10x1 thread for the output fitting and is used with convex pipe as standard, I've drilled the casting to remove the convec (replaced with a concave seat) and deepened so canuse a few different type fittings when plumbing - and if I'e Jeffed it then I have some spare cylinders (time to adapt the pedalbox to use another AP Racing M/cylinder?) also played with the sumppan for the drysump, a while ago I bought a steel sumppan from a frontwheel-drive Mazda 323 to use as the basis but as with most of my projects it dropped low on the priority list... mighty5s.com/post/46096/thread alloy Mx5 & steel 323 sump pans...  vented sump!  I've fitted the Mx5's (B6ZE(rs) 1.6L origonal) windage tray, partly asa a guide and also to help keep the cut pan in it's shape as it's now very flimsy   I might trim & use this windage tray but that all depends on how I fabricate the pan & troughs.  side view.  end view.  I'm going to replicate the Ford drysump pan design but with front & rear troughs for oil scavange. More faff & waffle to come. Rich.. |
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Post by dickie on Apr 19, 2021 20:35:28 GMT
Hi Rich,
I used a 45 degree banjo on my Clutch Master to point it down towards the Slave (Goodridge 600 series )
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Post by Zed. on Apr 19, 2021 21:33:03 GMT
Hi Rich, I used a 45 degree banjo on my Clutch Master to point it down towards the Slave (Goodridge 600 series ) thats something I was considering, luckily I have a small selection to pick from  (old photo) although I've only got 30 degree or 90 degree banjo's so maybe something else on the shopping list..... as the clutch hose is close to the startermotor & it's main power feed I'll use clear heatschrink tubing over it's lengthas protection against fizzing  Rich. |
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Post by dickie on Apr 20, 2021 17:03:47 GMT
Hi Rich
Offer the 30 degree one up. It might just be perfect.
I think my hose goes back into the tunnel then down and forward to the slave so that its away from the starter motor cables, its a bit longer than a direct route as its the same hose I used to go into the bellhousing when I was playing with a Saab concentric slave cylinder.
It turns out my group N clutch is quite light on the pedal with the stock cylinders.
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) but possibly better cast ports & coolant pasageways as the mould dies would be unworn due to being the first few years of production.
) and a guesswork pipe length that's suprisingly close, trying to decide on either a nipple in the master cylinder & a female swivel fitting or a banjo setup of some description...
le sigh